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ES' HAND-BOOK*#! 

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Pleasure Travel, 4i§ 


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MOUNTAINS, 

St. Lawrence 

AND 

Saugeuay Rivers. 

THE 

NORTHERN LAKES 

' Montreal and Quebec. 


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HOTELS. 


1 


ST. LOUIS HOTEL, 

ST. LOUIS STREET, 
QUEBEC. 

WILLIS RUSSELL, - - - PROPRIETOR. 



This Hotel, which is unrivalled for size , style and locality , 
in Quebec, is open through the year for pleasure and business 
travel. 

It is eligibly situated near to, and surrounded by the most 
delightful and fashionable promenades,—the Governor’s 
Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the Place d’Armes, and 
Durham Terrace—which furnish the splendid views and 
magnificent scenery for which Quebec is so justly celebrated, 
and which is unsurpassed in any part of the world. 

The proprietor, in returning thanks for the very liberal 
patronage hitherto enjoyed, informs the public that this 
Hotel has been Enlarged and Refitted, and can now ac¬ 
commodate five hundred visitors; and assures them that 
nothing will be wanting on his part that will conduce to the 
comfort and enjoyment of his guests. 

THE RUSSELL HOUSE, 

CORNER ANN & GARDEN STS., 

UPPER TOWN, QUEBEC. 

This modem built Ho te l is now open as an auxiliary to the ST. LOUIS HOTEL. 

TERMS MODERATE. 

WILLIS RUSSELL, Proprietor. 










Concord Coaches run to and from Brandon Station. 


•Telegraph office coiiuecied with the iiou&e. 1 or lull description see page 185. 


/ 












































































































ADVERTISEMENT. 


3 


UNITED STATES 

AND 

OAIA1A IXPEliS, 



Proprietors’ Office, 39 & 40 Court Square, BOSTON. 


Agency Offices at all principal Stations on the following Roads: 

Boston, Clinton & Fitchburg; Boston, Concord & Montreal; 
Central Vermont; Cheshire; Concord; Concord & Clare¬ 
mont ; Concord & Portsmouth; Connecticut & Passumpsic; 
Contoocook Valley; Fitchburg; Fitchburg & Worcester; 
Framingham & Lowell; Manchester & Lawrence; Mansfield 
& Framingham; Massawippi Valley; Missisquoi; Monad- 
nock ; Montreal & Champlain; Montpelier & Wells River; 
Montreal & Vt. Junction; Nashua & Lowell; NorthernN. H. 
—Bristol Branch; Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain; Portland 
& Ogdensburg (Vermont Division); Rutland & Burlington; 
South Eastern; Sullivan; Suncook Valley; Stanstead, Shef- 
ford & Chambly; Troy & Greenfield; Vermont & Canada; 
Vermont & Massachusetts—Brattleboro Branch, Turner’s 
Falls Branch; White Mountains; Worcester & Nashua. 


FORWARDED BY OTHER EXPRESSES 

To all Accessible Parts of the World. 





4 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


TRADE MARK: 

“THE CONCORD HARNESS.” 


DO YOU WANT A NEW HARNESS? 

If so, before you buy, consult, either in person or by letter, 

with 

JAMES R. HILL & CO. 

CONCORD, N. H., 

The only makers of the celebrated 




Which are the best to be had. 

All our Harnesses are made by hand. 

Every part of each Harness made IN OUR OWN SHOP. 

Every Harness made FROM THE BEST SELECTED 
STOCK. 

Every Harness HAND-STITCHED, CUSTOM-MADE and 
WARRANTED TO BE AS REPRESENTED. 

IF YOU WANT 

A Fine Carriage Harness, 

A Fine Buggy Harness, 

I A Fine Driving 1 Harness, 

I A Fine Hack or Coacli Harness, 

| A Dood Express Harness, 

A Good Store Harness, 
i A Good Givery Harness, 

A Good Team Harness, 

A Good Business Harness, 

A Strong Work Harness, or 
A Harness of any kind, 

Send us your orders at once or come in person and see ns. Every Harness is 
made under our own personal supervision. The test of every climate from East 
to West, and from between North and South proves them to be unequalled. Re 
sure and see us or write to us before you buy. YOU CAN SAVE MONEY AND 
GET A BETTER HARNESS. 

For prices, circulars, or any information concerning Harness, 

Address JAMES R. HILL & CO., Concord, N. H. 

>6^See remarks about “ THE CONCORD HARNESS,” in Descriptive Circular 
pages 44 and 45. Be sure and read it. 


KEYES’ HAND-BOOK 


OF 


'Jortherij Pleasure Travel: 

TO THE 

WHITE AND FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS, 

THE NORTHERN LAKES AND RIVERS, 

MONTREAL, QUEBEC, 


AND THE 


ST. LAWRENCE AND SAGUENAY RIVERS. 


HOW TO REACH THEM BY PLEASANT ROUTES, YIA THE MERRIMACK 
AND CONNECTICUT VALLEYS, AND CONNECTING LINES OF TRAVEL. 


“Oh Nature! a’ thy shows and forms 
To feeling, pensive hearts hae charms ! ” 

Burns. 


“It is a fresh and rare land, 

A rugged, bold and bare land, 
A loyal, true and rare land— 
This mountain land of ours.” 


BOSTON: 


K 


<£( os- Co 


. Acopyrigh. 

i U/4 

V 


GEO. L. KEYES, PUBLISHER, 4 WILLIAMS COURT. 

1874. 







XtVh'o 


PREFACE. 


In this “ age of travel” the Guide Book becomes as useful in the 
portmanteau of the tourist as the lexicon in the library of the 
scholar ; and, for this reason, we need not apologize for the issue 
of this Hand Book. That it may prove a reliable guide to such as 
wisely spend their season of recreation among the hills and by the 
lakes and streams of the Gigantic Commonwealth, or extend their 
trip into the Canadas or along connecting ways of travel, has been 
the aim of the author. 

Not pretending to rare literary merit, and hoping we have found 
the happy medium between the dry details of simple directions and 
tabular statements, and the prolixity of elaborate works, we grate¬ 
fully acknowledge the aid of the valuable and friendly written works 
of Starr King, Willey, Eastman and others, and give our little work 
into the hands of the travelling public who have so liberally pat¬ 
ronized a previous edition, 

THE AUTHOR. 


Boston, April 1st, 1874, 


Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1874 , by Geo. L. Keyes, 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 


THE CLAREMONT MANUFACTURING COMPANY, 
PAPER MAKERS, PRINTERS AND BINDERS, 
CLAREMONT, N. H. 






Wlftaq (3* 3 S’ 


7 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

Distances, Elevations and Hotels. 

CHAPTER I. Routes, &c. 17 

CHAPTER II. Northern Pleasure Travel. . 39 

CHAPTER III. Lake Winnipesaukee. 50 

CHAPTER IV. Northward from the Lake.. 60 

CHAPTER V. Franconia Range. 80 

CHAPTER VI. White Mt. Range. 94 

CHAPTER VII. From Mt. Washington, or the 
Crawford House, to North 
Conway or the Glen House 116 

CHAPTER VIII. No. Conway and Surround’gs. 125 

CHAPTER IX. Around Gorham.. 131 

CHAPTER X. Historical and Descriptive. . 134 

CHAPTER XI. Northward to Canada—Mon¬ 
treal. 137 

CHAPTER XII. Quebec. 149 

CHAPTER XIII. Saguenay River. 161 

CHAPTER XIV. Northern Vermont. 168 

CHAPTER XV. Portland & Ogdensburg R. R. 176 
CHAPTER XVI. Wells River to Montpelier 

and Westward. 180 

CHAPTER XVII. Saratoga to Mountains. 184 

CHAPTER XVIII. Niagara Falls to White M’ts. 196 
MAP of Routes to the White Mountains, Mon¬ 
treal and Quebec. 1 

“ The White Mts., with List of Summer 

Boarding Houses and Hotels. 39 

“ The Saguenay and St. Lawrence Rivers. . 160 

“ The Routes to Saratoga and the White 

Mountains. 180 

“ Time Tables. 224-229 


















INDEX 


ft- 




PAGE. 

Alton Bay, N. H. 68 

Ammonusuc River. 99 

Artist’s Falls. 128 

Ascent of Bald Mountain. 85 

“ Copple Crown. 57 

“ Moosilauk. 66 

“ Mount Lafayette. 88 

“ Mount Prospect,. 63 

“ Mt. Washington.95, 99 

“ Mt. Washington by rail... 100 

“ Mt. Wash, by carriage r’d 100 

“ Mt. Willard. 112 

“ “Owls Head”. 174 

“ Red Hill. 55 

Ashland, N. H. 61 

Bartlett. 118 

Basin. 89 

B., C.&M.R.R . 47 

Beecher’s Falls Cascade. 110 

Bethlehem, N. II. 69 

Boarding Houses and Hotels, see maps. 

Boston, routes from to Mts.30, 35 

Boston & Maine R. R. 35 

Boston to Canada, routes.30, 35 

Boston, Ms. 37 

Bradford, Vt. 

Brandon, Vt. 184 

Burlington, "Vt. 183 

Caldwell. 190 

Campton, N. H. 65 

Cannon Mountain. 84 

Cascades, Franconia Mountains. 90 

Cathedral, Natural, No. Conway. 127 

Cathedral of Notre Dame. 143 

Cathedral, Montreal. 143 

Central Vermont Railroad. 184 

Centre Harbor, N. II. 53 

Cherry Mountain. 78 

Chucorua. 129 

Colebrook, N. II. 78 

Concord, N. H. 41 

Concord to the Mountains, route... 45 

Conway, N. H. 129 

Conway, North. 125 

Conway, through the Notch. 116 

Copple Crown Mountain. 57 

Crawford House. 108 

Crawford Notch. 110 

Crawfords, The. 135 

Crystal Cascade. 122 

Devil’s Den. 128 

Diana’s Bath. 128 

Distances. 11 

Dixville Notch. 79 

Down the St. Lawrence. 145 

Dunmore, Lake. 185 

Eagle Cliff. 83 

Echo Lake, Franconia Notch. 81 

Echo Lake, North Conway. 127 

Elevations. 15 


PAGH. 

Emerald Pool. 121 

Fabyan House and Station.71, 98 

Falls, Ammonusuc. 99 

“ Artist’s. 128 

“ Gibbs. 110 

“ Glen Ellis. 122 

“ Harvard. 92 

“ Montmorenci. 155 

“ on Avalanche Brook. 114 

Flume, Crawford Notch. 113 

“ Dixville Notch. 90 

“ Franconia Notch. 90 

“ House, Franconia. 90 

Framingham, Mass. 24 

Franconia Mountains. 80 

Franconia, N. H. 68 

Franconia Notch. 81 

Garnet Pools. 121 

Glens Falls. 188 

Glen House and Glen.119, 120 

Gorham, N. H., and vicinity. 131 

Gorham to the Notch. 132 

Grand Trunk Railway. 78 

Great Gulf. 123 

Guildhall, Vt.,. 78 

Hartford, Conn. 26 

Hell Gate. 19 

Hills’Harnesses. 43 

Historical and Descriptive.124 

Hotel Tablet.13, 14 

Hydepark, Vt. 176 

Imp Mountain.131 

Island Pond.137 

Island Pond House. 137 

Islands of Winnipesaukee. 50 

Jackson, N. II. .118 

Jefferson Hills. 57 

Jefferson, N. H.133 

Kiarsarge House...125 

Kiarsarge Mt.126 

Lachine Rapids. 145 

Laconia, N. H. 48 

“ Lady of the Lake ” boat.,51 

Lake Champlain.191 

Lake Dunmore House. 185 

Lake George.190 

Lake Memphremagog, trip on.172 

Lake Village, N. II. 48 

Lake Winnipesaukee. 50 

Lancaster, N H. 73 

Lawrence, Mass. 35 

Lincoln, N. 9. 

List of Boarding Houses, see maps. 

Littleton, N. II. 67 

Long Island Sound. 19 

Lowell, Mass. 30 

Lunenburg, Vt. 73 

Magog, Lake Memphremagog.175 

Manchester, N. H..... . 33 

Meredith Village.. 60 























































































































INDEX, 


9 


PAGE. 


Merrimack River. 40 

Middlebury, Vt.187 

Montcalm Old House.156 

Montpelier, Yt. 179 

Montreal.138 

Montreal House. 140 

Moostshillock Mountain. 66 

Mount Adams.123 

“ Agassiz House. 70 

“ Clay... 

“ Hayes.131 

“ Jefferson.123 

“ Madison. 123 

“ Mansfield.,. 177 

“ Mansfield House. 182 

“ Moriah.131 

“ Peabody. 99 

“ Pemigewasset. 93 

“ Prospect. 

“ Surprise. 132 

“ Washington. 99 

“ “ carriage road.. 100 

“ “ House.104 

“ “ in winter.108 

“ “ Railway. 100 

“ " Steamer. 

° “ Summit view.. 106 

“ “ the descent.... 102 

“ Willey. 107 

Mt. Willard, drive to summit of.... 112 

Norwich line of Steamers. 20 

New Haven, Conn. 25 

Newport, R. I. 28 

Newport, Vt.171 

New York City and vicinity. 17 

New York, routes from.20-27 

Niagara Falls route. 196 

North Conway, N. H.125 

North Conway, to and from. 125 

Northumberland Junction. 78 

Norwich, Conn. 21 

Notch, Dixville. 79 

Notch, White Mt. and vicinity.110 

Old Man of Mountain. 85 

Passumpsic River Railroad.168 

Peabodj' River. 121 

Pemigewasset House. 61 

Pemigewasset River and Valley.... 65 

Pequaket Mountain or Kiarsarge.. 126 

Phenix House, Concord. 44 

Pilot Hills.131 

Pinkham Notch.119 

Plains of Abraham.158 

Plymouth, N. H. 61 

Pool, Franconia Notch. 92 

Preface. 6 

Profile House and vicinity. 69 

Profile Mountain and Lake. 87 

Profile (stone face)...... 85 

Providence, R. 1. 28 

Providence, routes from. 28 


PAGE. 


Quebec, city of. 149 

Randolph Hill.131 

Red Hill. 55 

Richmond, P. Q. 138 

Routes, all rail. 27 

Routes, boat and rail. 24 

Rutland, Vt. lsi 

Saco River. 117 

Saco Valley . 113 

Saguenay River and route.168 

St. Johnsbury, Vt. 165 

St. Lawrence River... 144 

Saratoga route.189 

Sawyer’s Rock. 113 

Silver Cascade.117 

Sound Steamers. 15 

Southeastern Railway.176 

Springfield, Mass. 23 

Squam Lake. 68 

Starr King Mountain. 70 

Steamer “Lady of the Lake”. 60 

Stowe, Vt.181 

Thornton, N. H. 65 

Ticonderoga. 191 

Tip-Top House. 104 

Tuckerman’s Ravine.122 

Twin Mountain House . 97 

Van Ness House, Burlington, Vt... 194 

Vergennes, Vt.187 

Victoria Bridge. 141 

Views from Moosehillock Summit.. 66 

“ Mount Belknap. 49 

“ Mount Washington.... 104 

“ Mount Pequaket or 

Kiarsarge.126 

“ Prospect Hill. 63 

“ Red Hill. 55 

View of the Profile. <. 85 

View from Lafayette. 88 

“ Waumbek House. 78 

“ Fabyan House. 72 

Warren, N. H. 66 

Waterbury, Vt. 181 

Waumbek House. 76 

Weirs (Lake Station). 49 

Wells River, Vt. 179 

Wells River & Montpelier R. R.... 178 

Whitefield, N. H. 72 

White Mountains, genetal view.... 94 

White Mountain House. 99 

White Mountain Notch.110 

White River Junction. 

Willey House. Ill 

Willoughby Lake.170 

Wing Railway. 69 

Winnipesaukee Lake. 50 

Winter above the Clouds.108 

Wolfeborough. 57 

Wolfe, General. 159 

Woodstock, N. II... 65 

Worcester. 95 













































































































INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS, 


Booksellers, Publishers and Im¬ 
porters ----- 225 

Card and Glazed Paper - - 234 

Dry Goods, Silks and Gloves * 232 

Dictionaries - - - 236 237 

Engravings .... 238 

Furs ------ 231 

Grand Trunk Railway, 3d p. of cover. 
Galaxy.236 

HOTELS. 

American House 1st inside cover p. 

Bangor House .... 217 

Buck’s Hotel - - - - 207 

Belvue House - - - - 207 

Colonnade Hotel - 204 

Dixon House - 206 

Fitch’s Hotel - 208 

Fabyan House - 4th p. of cover. 
Grant’s Hotel - - - - 205 

Kiarsarge House - 
Lake Dunmore House - 2 

Lynde’s Hotel ... - 216 

National House - 212 

Old Orchard House - - - 202 

Parker House - 212 

Preble House - 200 


Queen’s Hotel - - - - 

Rockingham House - - - 201 

Sanborn House - 212 

Sinclair House - - - - 210 

Spring Hotel - - - - 213 

St. Louis Hotel - - - - 1 

Town’s Hotel - 215 

The Grand Pacific - - - 203 

Wassaumkeag House - - 15, 16 

Wachussett - 214 

White River Hotel - - - 212 

Windsor House - - - - 208 

Harper’s Publications - * 240 

Harness Manufacturers - - 4, 230 

Jewelers ----- 231 

Montreal and Boston Air Line 218 221 
Marble Dealers - - - - 233 

Nursery - - - - 237 

Organs - - - - - 229 

Providence and White Mts.Ex.Line. 222 
Quebec and Gulf Port S. S. Co. - 199 
North Conway, West Ossipee aud 
Centre Harbor Stage Line - 223 

Scribner’s Monthly * - 239 

Tailors ----- 232 

U. S. Canada Express - . 3 


Haiti), McNally & Co’s. 
RAILWAY GUIDE. 


THE TRAVELER'S HAND BOOK 

TO 

All Railway & Steamboat Lines of North America. »• 

CORRECTED AND ISSUED MONTHLY. 

Giving Lists of General Officers, Latest Time Tables, Complete Lists Stations, 

AND TICKET FARES OF ALL ROUTES. 

Illustrated by a Magnificent Colored Map of the United States and Canada, and 
by Special Maps of all Principal Railway Lines. It also gives the Population, 
as shown by the Government Census, of every Railroad and River Town 
within the United States and Canada, with a full and accurate 
Description of their Geographical Situation, Chief Objects of 
Interest, Commercial Importance aud Hotel Accommodations. 

SOLD BY NEWSDEALERS. PRICE 40cte. 

RAND, McNALLY & CO., 79 & 81 Madison St., Chicago. 








ELEVATIONS ABOVE SEA LEVEL, 


FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 

FXET. 

Mount Lafayette. 5,000 

Mount Cannon, or Profile Mountain. 3,500 

Moosilauk. 4,636 

Cherry Mountain. 3,670 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Mount Washington. 6,285 

Mount Jefferson. 5,700 

Mount Adams . 5,800 

Mount Munroe. 5,400 

Mount Madison . 5,400 

Mount Clay. 5,400 

Mount Franklio. 4,900 

Mount Pleasant. 4,800 

Mount Clinton . 4 200 

Mount Jackson. 4,100 

Mount Webster. 4,000 

Mount Willard . 2,575 

Mount Willey . 4,300 

Mount Carter. 5,000 

Mount Moriah. 4,700 

Mount Hayes. 2,500 

Pequaket or Kiarsarge (at North Conway). 3,367 

Chucorua. 3,358 

Mount Prospect (near Plymouth). 2,968 

Red Hill (near Centre Harbor). 2,502 

Copple Crown Mount (near Wolfeborough). 2,100 

Alpine House—Gorham . 800 

Bethlehem—Village. 1,450 

Crawford House. 1,920 

Fabyan House . 1,551 

Flume House . 1,431 

Glen House. 1,632 

Profile House—Franconia Notch. 1,974 

Willey House—White Mountain Notch. 1,335 

Mount Resolution. 3,400 

Giants Stairs. 3,500 

Marshfield (or Ammonusuc Station)—foot of Mountain Railway. 2,615 

Pinkham Notch (highest point) . 2,018 

Franconia Notch (highest point). 2,014 

Plymouth. 473 

Lancaster . 860 

Littleton . 817 

Conway Intervales. 471 

Concord N. H. Depot. 236 

Lake Wiunipesaukee. 496 


MOUNTAINS IN VERMONT. 


Mount Mansfield. 4,348 

Camel’s Hump. 4,083 

Jay Peak . 4,018 

Mount Willoughby. 3,600 

Ascutney (near Windsor). 3,320 


MOUNTAINS IN CANADA. 

Owl’s Head, near Lake Memphremagog. 

Mount Orford. 

Lake Champlain. 

Lake Memphremagog. 

Lake Willoughby. T. . 

























































DISTANCES 


YIA BOSTON, CONCORD AND MONTREAL RAILROAD. 




From Concord. 

From Boston. 

To 




Miles. 

Miles. 

Northfield, N. H., 

. 

. 

. 

13 

87 

Laconia, N. H., 

. 

- 

- 

27 

101 

Tilton, N. II., - - - 

- 

. 

- 

18 

92 

Lake Village, N. H., ... 

Weirs—Lake Winnipesaukee Station 

- 

- 

- 

27 

101 

- 

- 

- 

34 

108 

Centre Harbor—10 miles by boat 

- 

- 

- 

44 

118 

Wolfborough—17 miles by boat 

- 

- 

- 

51 

119 

North Conway—via Centre Harbor, by boat, 

stage and rail, 

75 

149 

Meredith Village, N. H., 

- 

- 

- 

38 

112 

Ashland, N. II., ... 

- 

- 

- 

48 

120 

Plymouth, N. H., ... 

- 

- 

- 

61 

125 

Rumney, N. H., - - - 

• 

- 

- 

69 

133 

West Rumney, N. H., ... 

• 

- 

- 

62 

136 

Wentworth, N. H., ... 

- 

- 

• 

67 

141 

Warren, N. H., ... 

- 

- 

- 

70 

144 

Haverhill, N. H., - 

- 

- 

- 

85 

156 

Woodsville, N. H., ... 

- 

- 

- 

93 

167 

Wells River, Vermont (junction with Passumpsic and Montpelier 


Railways), - - - 

- 

- 

- 

93 y 2 

167 'A 

Bath, N. H., ... 

- 

• 

- 

98 

172 

Lisbon, N. H. ... 

- 

- 

- 

104 

178 

Littleton—11 miles staging from this point to Profile 




House, ... 

- 

- 

- 

113 

187 

Wing Road (diverges from Main line), 

- 

- 

- 

119 

193 

Bethlehem (on Wing Railroad), 

- 

- 

- 

125 

199 

Twin Mountain House Station 

- 

• 

• 

129 

203 

Whitefield, N. H., ... 

- 

- 

- 

125 

199 

Dalton, N. II., ... 

- 

• 

• 

129 

203 

Lancaster, N. H., ... 

- 

- 

- 

135 

209 


Northumberland, N. H., (junction with Grand Trunk Railway), 145 
North Stratford, N. H., (on Grand Trunk line,) - • 158 

Sherbrooke, P. Q. (on Grand Trunk junction with Passumpsic) 219 
Richmond, P. Q. (on Grand Trunk junction with Quebec 

division) ------ 244 

Montreal, ....... 320 

Quebec, via Northumberland ..... 340 

Montpelier, Vt., ) via Wells River and newline to Montpelier, 

nearly completed), ..... 132 

Waterbury, Yt., (via Wells River, stage to Stowe, Vt.,) - 140 

Stowe, Vt., (10 miles staging from Waterbury), - - 150 

Newport, Vt., (via Passumpsic Railroad from Wells River), 158 

Lake Memphremagog, ..... 158 

Essex Junction, Vt., - - - - - 162 

Burlington, Vt., - - - - - - 168 

Hyde Park, Vt., (on Vt., division of P. & 0. R. R., west from St. 
Jobnsbury) ...... 105 

St. Jobnsbury on Passumpsic R. R. R. - - - 113)^ 


219 

232 

293 

318 

394 

414 

206 

214 

224 

232 

232 

236 

242 

199 

187 ^ 



HOTEL TABLET 


Place. 

Andover. Mass., 

Bangor, Me., 

Boston, Mass., 

«l (4 

a (( 

Bellows Falls, Yt., 

• 4 44 

Burlington, Vt., 

44 44 

Caldwell, N. Y., 

Centre Harbor, N. H., 

44 44 

Ch’cago, Ill., 

Clinton, Mass., 
Colebrook, N. II., 
Concord, N. H., 

44 44 

Corry, Pa., 

Detroit, Mich., 

Dover, N. II., 

Elkhart, Ind., 

Fort Edward, N. Y., 
Glens Falls, N. Y., 
Great Falls, N. H., 
Hampton, N. H., 
Hartlord, Yt., 

Hydepark, Vt., 

Island Pond, Vt., 

Lake Village, N. H., 
Lawrence, Mass., 
Laconia, N. H., 
Lennoxville, P. Q., 
Louisville, Ky., 

Lowell, Mass., 
Lyndonville, Vt., 
Manchester, N. H., 
Meredith Village, N. H„ 
Montreal, P. Q, 

Milford, Mass., 
Montpelier, Vt., 

New Bedford, Mass , 
Newbury, Vt., 

Newport, Vt., 

Newport, N. H. 
Newburyport, Mass., 
Northampton, Mass., 
North Stratford, N. H., 
Philadelphia, Pa., 
Pittsfield, N. H., 
Portland, Me., 


Name. 

Mansion House, 

Bangor House, 

Clarendon Hotel, 
American House, 
Crawford House, 

Towns’ Hotel, 

Island House, 

American House, 

Van Ness House, 

Ft. Wm. Henry Hotel, 
Senter House, 

Moulton House, 

The Grand Pacific Hotel, 
Clinton House, 

Parson’s House, 

Phenix Hotel, 

Eagle Hotel, 

Empire House, 

Russell House, 

New Hampshire House, 
Clifton House, 

St. James Hotel, 
Rockwell House, 

Grant’s Hotel, 

Union House, 

White River Hotel, 
American House, 

Island Pond House, 
Mount Belknap House, 
Franklin House, 

Laconia House, 

Buck’s Hotel, 

Galt House, 

Merrimac House, 

Walker House, 

National House. 

Elm House, 

Montreal House, 

Milford House, 

Bishop’s Hotel, 

Parker House, 

Spring Hotel, 
Memphremagog House, 
Phenix House, 

Ocean House, 

Fitch’s Hotel, 

Williard House, 
Colonnade Hotel, 
Washington House, 
Preble House, 


Prop, and Man. 

Charles L. Carter. 

0. M. Shaw. 

J. Pickering Draper. 
Lewis Rice & Son. 
Stumcke & Goodwin. 
Chas. Towns. 

44 44 

H. H. Howe. 

D. C. Barber & Co. 

J. Roessle & Son. 

J. L. Huntress. 

S. F. Emery. 

Geo. W. Gage, J. A. Rice. 

I. W. Cook. 

E. F. Bailey. 

J. R. Crocker. 

John A. White. 

C. R. De Burgh. 

W T itbeck & Chittenden. 
W. J. Walker. 

Henry Clark. 

J. N. Moore. 

Rockwell Bros. 

Edmund Grant. 

Smith & Whittier. 

C. W. Pease. 

E. B. Sawyer. 

Bartlett A Stone. 

D. B. Story. 

T. W. Huse. 

Elkins Bros. 

F. P. Buck. 

J. P. Johnson. 

Emery & Nute. 

G. B. Walker. 

Willey & Head. 

G. M Burleigh. 

Decker & Co. 

Hapgood Brothers. 

H. H. Bishop. 

Bullock & Brownell. 

R. W. Chamberlain. 

W. F. Bowman. 

J. H. Brown. 

J. P. S. Wescott. 

C. F. Simonds. 

E. H. Folsom. 

John Crump. 

T. B. Tucker. 

M. S. Gibson & Co. 



14 


HOTEL TABLET, 


Portsmouth, N. H., 

Port Huron, Mich., 
Providence, R.{I., 

Quebec, P. Q., 

U ii 

Rochester, N. H., 
Rockland, Me., 

Rutland, Yt., 

Saco,Me.,Old Orch’d Beach 
Salisbury, Yt., 

Sandy Hill, N. Y., 
Sherbrooke, P. Q., 

ii ii 

South Yernon, Yt., 
Springfield, Mass., 
Stockton, Me., Fort Point, 
St. Johnsbury, Yt., 

Stowe, Yt., 

Toronto, Ont., 

Yergennes, Vt., 
Washington, D. C., 

Watch Hill, R. I., 
Westerly, R. I., 

Winooski, Vt., 

Windsor, Vt., 
Wolfeborough June., N. H. 
Wolfeborough, N. II., 


Williamstown, Mass., 
Winchendon, Mass., 

Wells River, Yt., 

White River Juaction, Yt 
AVest Rutland, Yt., 


Rockingham House, 
Huron House, 

Central House, 

St. Louis Hotel, 
Russell House, 
Dodge’s Hotel, 
Lynde’s Hotel, 
Berwick House, 

,01d Orchard House, 
Lake Dunmore Hotel, 
Coffee House, 
Continental Hotel, 
Sherbrooke House, 
South Vernon House, 
Massasoit House, , 
Wa8sumkeag House, 
Avenue House, 

Mt. Mansfield Hotel, 
Queen’s Hotel, 
Stevens House, 

The Arlington, 
Plimpton House, 
Dixon House, 

Stevens House, 
Windsor House,.’ 

,,Sanborn House, 
Pavilion Hotel, 
Glenden Hotel, 
Belvue House, 
Greylock Hall, 
Monadnock House, 

,Junction House, 
Barnes House, 


G. W. & J. S. Pierce. 
George Knill. 
Hopkins & Sears. 
Willis Russell. 

(I ii 

J. T. Dodge. 

G. A. Lynch. 

M. K. Hotchkiss. 

E. C. Staples. 

E. P. Hitchcock. 

N. W. Clark. 

P. A. Camirand. 

W. Chamberlain. 

D. L. Priest. 

M. & E. P. Chapin. 

D. W. Ranlet 
Geo. H. Aldrich. 

N. P. Keeler. 

Tho. McGaw. 

S. S. Gaines. 

T. Roessle <fc Son. 

A. S. Plimpton. 

A. S. Plimpton. 

J. W. Cel ley. 

J. H. Simonds. 

J. W. Prescott. 

E. Stanton. 

J. L. Peavey. 

Daniel Horn. 

Streeter & Swift. 

H. A. Crocker. 

M. G. Slack. 

A. T. & 0. F. Barron. 
J. H. Hazelton. 


WHITE MOUNTAIN HOTELS. 


Bethlehem, N. H., 

ii ii 

ii .1 

Carroll, N. II., 

ii a 

a a 

u a 

Conway, N. II., 

ii <i 

Fraconia Notch, N. H., 
Jefferson, N. H., 
Lancaster, N. II., 
Littleton, N. H., 

a a 

Mt. Washington Sum’t, 
North Conway, N. H., 

ii ii 

ii ii 

ii ii 

ii ii 

ii a 

Plymouth, N. II., 

West Ossipee, N. II., 
Warren, N. II., 

Gorham, N. H., 


Sinclair House, 

Prospect House, 

Mt. Agassiz House, 
Fabyan House, 

White Mountain House, 
Twin Mountain House, 
Crawford House, 
Conway House, 
Pequaket House, 

Profile House, 
Waumbeck House, 
Lancaster House, 

Oak Hill House, 

Union House, 
Mt.Washington, House, 
Kiarsarge House, 
Randall House, 
Intervale House, 
McMillan House, 

Sunset Pavilion, 

Mason Hotel, 
Pemigewasset House, 
Bear Camp House, 
Moosilauk House, 

Glen House, 


J. A. Durgin . 

Geo. W. Phillips. 

Cyrus E. Bunker. 

Lindsey, French & Co. 
Rounsvel & Co. 

A. T. & 0. F. Barron. 

U II II ? 

L. H. Eastman. 

D. E. Pendexter. 

Taft & Greenleaf. 

Merrill & Plaisted.) 

B. H. Corning. 

Geo. Farr & Co. 

W. Jennison. 

J. W. Dodge. 

Thompson Son & Andrews. 
J. T. Randall. 

Stephen Mudgett & Sons. 
John McMillan. 

M. L. Mason. 

F. II. Mason. 

C. M. Morse. 

J. L. Plummer. 


AY. & C. R. Miliken. 





HOTELS. 


15 


Wassaumkeag Hotel, 

D. W. KANLET. 



wmw poim PEmmmw bay. 

stooktoit, uvcie. 

FOBT FOIMT, 


In latitude 44 degrees, is a promontory near the head of Pen¬ 
obscot Bay, twenty-five miles from Bangor, which commands 
a wide and picturesque panorama of both water and moun¬ 
tain scenery, and is also of considerable historic interest. 

Fort Foint 

Has long been a popular place of resort, and the recent con¬ 
struction of the spacious and elegant Hotel offers extra 
inducements to the health and pleasure-seeking public. 

The Hotel has a frontage of one hundred and fifty feet, 
contains one hundred and twenty-five large size, high studded 
and well ventilated rooms elegantly furnished, extra wide 
halls, with all the modern appointments of Gas and Steam 
Heat, Salt and Fresh Baths. Billiards, Bowling, Telegraph 
Office, Livery Stable, News-stand, etc., and was especially 
designed for the comfort of families and children, while its 





16 


HOTELS. 


verandas, promenade roof and cupola, command the whole 
panorama of Bay, Islands and Mountains. 

A short distance from the house is 

Odam's Ledge, 

The home of a numerous family of Seals, whose disportings 
are an unfailing source of amusement. 

The advantages for bathing, sailing and fishing (with ex¬ 
perienced fisherman or skippers) in the beautiful bay, or driv¬ 
ing on fine roads along the shore, for hunting the abundance 
of game in the adjoining forests, together with the shade 
trees or groves, fine croquet grounds, entire freedom from 
frogs, mosquitos, flies and other pests, accompanied by an 
even temperature, with the best water on the coast , and pure 
drainage , form a combination of inland and seashore attrac¬ 
tions rarely met with. The facilities for obtaining fresh pure 
milk , berries, eggs and vegetables from the adjacent country, 
and clams, lobsters, salmon and other varieties of fish from 
the water every day, are such as to make the table peculiarly 
attractive. 

The proprietor's hotel connections in New York, the West, 
and the past five years at the White Mountains, N. H., he 
trusts will be a sufficient guarantee of his ability to properly 
care for the comfort and amusement of his guests. 

The special rates for families for the season will be exceed¬ 
ingly low. 

Routes from Boston via Sanford’s Independent Line Steam¬ 
ers, at 5,00 p. H., on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fri¬ 
days. From Bangor and Fort Point to Boston, on Mondays, 
Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Via Eastern Rail¬ 
road to Portland, thence by Portland, Bangor and Machias 
Steamboat Co., or via Maine Central to Bangor, thence by 
Ross & Howell’s boats, which ply daily. Boat landings within 
thirty rods of the house. 

ID. W. IR-A-ZETLET, Proprietor. 

Post CflPe address, FORT POINT HOTEL, STOCKTON, ME, 


CHAPTER I. 


THE START FROM HEW YORK. 


Many who gather from the south and west to the grand 
centre of the nation, as well as actual dwellers therein, will 
choose to take the initial stage of their journey to rural and 
summer retreats by boat-trip through Long Island Sound, on 
some one of the safe and palatial Steamers running in con¬ 
nection with the railways from Norwich (Allyn’s Point,) Ston- 
ington, Newport, Providence, or Fall River—through-lines to 
the mountains, or the interior. 

These Steamers leave their piers, on North or Hudson Riv¬ 
er, at 5 o’clock, P. M., and make passage through East River 
in the waning day, giving an agreeable change from the 
crowded streets and heated pavements of the great City, to 
the coolness of an open harbor and the breath of sea-breezes. 

The observing stranger will find this trip one of rarest in¬ 
terest from the start. The rounding of the southern point of 
the city, the glance down the magnificent bay, the circular and 
frowning walls of the Battery, Castle Garden, Govern¬ 
or’s Island, with the batteries of Castle William, and the 
many points of interest, which were the centres of life and 
business in the New York of former years, are here observed. 

Through East River the magnificent Steamer ploughs its 
way, crossing the line of numerous ferries which connect the 
first city in the United States with Brooklyn—the third in 
population—soon to be joined to the metropolis by an im¬ 
mense Bridge already in process of building. 




18 


THE START FROM NEW YORK. 


The River, alive with a moving fleet of shipping, has, lying 
along its miles of water-front, ships and steamers from every 
quarter of the world, laden with the riches of every land, and 
the products of every industry. 

The bold Heights of Brooklyn, to the right, are crowned 
with elegant residences, while the Docks and Navy Yard— 
one of the great Naval Stations of the country—the islands, 
with the public institutions thereon, all form a scene which 
can but interest those to whom the sight is not made familiar 
by daily observance. 

The stranger, who tarries in the city, will get his best view 
of the metropolis and surroundings from Trinity steeple, or 
a more distinct one from Brooklyn Heights. If he is interest¬ 
ed in art and modern improvement, he will find in the Parks, 
Museums, Public Institutions and pleasure resorts of this na¬ 
tional centre of business life, attractions unequalled else¬ 
where in the country. If, on the other hand, he is attracted 
by points of historic interest and old associations, he may 
visit the sites where Washington, John Adams, Alexander 
Hamilton and Aaron Burr lived in the early days of the Me¬ 
tropolis ; where the Father of his country held his court, was 
elected President, and bade farewell to his officers. The 
graves of Alexander Hamilton, Commodore Lawrence, and 
many others of wide fame, are in Trinity Churchyard. 

He may, also, in summer, take pleasure trips up the wond¬ 
erful Hudson River on which its discoverer sailed of old, in 
the staunch “ Half Moon,” under the firm belief that he had 
found the long sought passage to China. The grandeur of 
the Highlands along the banks of the Hudson is unsur¬ 
passed, and each headland and crag has its'liistoric associa¬ 
tions or pleasing legends; for here the fine fancy of Irving 
wove his dreamy yet delightful tales. 

He may also take a sail down the grand harbor to Long 
Branch, or to the many suburban points of interest which 
cannot be here mentioned, even by name. 

But, returning to the boat on which we have taken passage, 
and steaming on in stately strength through East River, past 
the extensive corrective and reformatory institutions on 


THE START FROM NEW YORK. 


19 


Blackwell’s and Randall’s Islands, the once perilous passage 
at “ Hell Gate” is reached—six miles from New York, 
famous for the perils here encountered by the early Dutch 
navigators: this tortuous passage, which has since been a 
bar to commerce, will soon become a thing of the past, and 
yield to the force of genius and nitro-glycerine. 

At Throgg’s Neck, thirteen miles from New York, com¬ 
manded by the guns of Fort Schuyler, you enter the waters of 

LONG ISLAND SOUND. 

This important inland highway for navigation between the 
national centre of commerce and trade and New England, is 
somewhat over one hundred miles in length, and, at its 
broadest, from twenty to thirty miles in width, and is navi¬ 
gable for the largest craft. The superior harbors are within 
the irregular outline of the northern coast, which is studded 
with important towns and cities and popular resorts. 

The pulses of the iron monster beat on through the night; 
the prow steadily cleaves the waves, and the glimmering 
wake follows in dying perspective, whether you sleep or 
wake. There is rest for those who prefer it, and grandeur 
and beauty for those who appreciate the somber glory of the 
moonlit sea. 

Your choice of rail routes having been made, you will find 
your further progress fully described under the head of 
“ Routes,” laid out in the following pages. 


ROUTE. 

From New York to Concord , N. H. 

By Boat and Rail from New York by the Norwich 
Line of Steamers, via Worcester and Nashua. 

These fine boats, “ City of New York” and “ City of Bos- 

























VIA NORWICH. 


21 


ton,” leave Pier No. 40. North River, at 5 o’clock, p. M., 
They have all the appointments and conveniences to be found 
upon the boats of any inland waters, passing in full view of 
the great city, the surrounding objects of interest and the 
suburban towns along the Long Island shore, more fully 
described in the opening pages. Passengers by this route in¬ 
cur little risk from storms or inconvenience from rough 
weather; arriving at Allyn’s Point at4 o’clock, A. M. ; White 
Mountain Express train leaving at 5 o’clock, a. m. ; thence 
by the Norwich and Worcester Railway, with elegant parlor 
cars, which are not excelled, if eqalled, by those of any rail¬ 
way line, to Worcester —the heart of the Commonwealth, 
(receiving at this point the travel centreing here from con¬ 
verging roads,) and, after taking time for breakfast at the 
BAY STATE House, proceed by Worcester and Nashua rail¬ 
road, to Ayer’s Junction, (connecting there with train from 
Fitchburg,) to Nashua; (connecting with through White 
Mountain Express trains from Boston,) and Manchester, 
along the valley of the Merrimack River, (receiving at Man¬ 
chester passengers from Portsmouth and the East, and from 
Boston via. Lawrence,) proceed, stopping only at important 
points, to Concord, Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, (dining 
station) Littleton, (from here to Profile House by stage) Beth¬ 
lehem, Fabyan House station, (nearest to Mount Washington, 
and Crawford House at the Notch, Crawford House and 
Mount Washington House on summit of Mount Washington, 
or to Lancaster (stage from here to Jefferson Hill) and 
Northumberland—(junction with Grand Trunk Railway for 
Montreal or Quebec.) 

Note. —An Express train, connecting with this line of boats, leaves Allyn’s Pt 
at 5 o’clock, A. m., giving a full night’s rest on the boat, and proceeds, by continu¬ 
ous express trains, (parlor cars run through) without delay to the Mountains. 

Norwich is at the head of navigation on the Thames River, thirteen miles from 
New London. The location is commanding, built upon the steep hillside, lying 
between the rivers which unite to form the Thames. The manufacturing portion 
of the town is in a valley enclosed by hills. Cottons, woolens, paper and ma¬ 
chinery are the chief products. The territory comprised in the town was pur¬ 
chased of Uncas and his sons for the sum of seventy pounds. A large banking 
and insurance business is carried on at this place. The “Falls of the Yantic” 
are about a mile from its outlet, and should be visited by those who tarry here. 



Norwich Line, New York to the White Mountains. 

Leave Allyn’s Point at 5 A.M. on through White Mountain Express, for Worcester, 

Clinton, Nashua, Manchester, Concord, Lake Winnipiseogee, Plymouth, (dine) Lit¬ 
tleton, Lancaster and Fabyan House. 



































































































































































































ROUTE. 

From New York to Concord , N. H. 

Bit Boat and Rail from New York via Fall River 
Line of Steamers. 

Starting at 5 o’clock, p. M., from New York, Piers No. 28 
and 30, North River, these palatial boats, the finest that float 
upon inland waters—the “Bristol” and “Providence,” 
each furnished with an excellent band of music during the 
season of summer travel, and with large state rooms lighted 
by gas, will proceed though the whole length of the Sound 
and Narragansett Bay, affording fine views of the Metrop¬ 
olis and surroundings described in the preceding pages, giv¬ 
ing a longer sail, and less distance by rail, with same time 
and fare as other routes, and arrive at Fall River—the cham¬ 
pion manufacturing city of New England—on Mount Hope 
Bay, an arm of Narraganset Bay, at the confluence of Taun¬ 
ton and Fall Rivers, at about 4 o’clock, A. M. 

Passengers are called for breakfast at 5^ o’clock; after 
breakfasting, take the fine parlor car 

“ PLYMOUTH” OR “ NEWPORT,” 

or the elegant monitor top cars of this line, and proceed by 
express train , stopping only at important points, to Concord, 
Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, Littleton, (from here to 
Profile House by stage;) Bethlehem, Twin Mountain station, 
Fabyan house Station, (present terminus of the Mountain 
branch, and nearest to Mt. Washington and the Crawford 
House at White Mt. Notch.) Mount Washington Railway 
Station at Marshfield, up Mt. Wash’n R. R. to summit, or to 
the Crawford House at the Notch; or, to Lancaster (stage 
from here to Jefferson Hill, and Northumberland, (junction 
with Grand Trunk Railway for Montreal or Quebec. 


24 ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H, 


Note. —This train receives at Taunton passengers from New Bedford and Cape 
Cod Railroads; at Mansfield connects with train from Providence and Shore 
Line from New York; at Framingham with train from New York, via Hartford 
and Springfield; thence over the Framingham and Lowell Railroad to Acton, 
and from thence to Nashua by the new Nashua and Acton railway, connecting 
there with the through express trains for the north, (no change of cars), proceed¬ 
ing through Manchester (receiving at Manchester passengers from Portsmouth 
and the east), and continuing through the valley of the Merrimack to Concord, 
N. H. 


ROUTE. 

From New York to Concord , N. H. 

All Rail day route from New York to the Mountains. 

Leave New York by express train via Springfield, Worces¬ 
ter and Nashua, from the Grand Central Depot, Forty-second 
street, at 10 o’clock, A. m., (fast express,) by New York and 
New Haven Railroad via New Haven and Hartford, and ar¬ 
riving at Springfield at 1 o’clock, in time for dinner at that 
excellent hotel, the Massasoit House; thence proceeding via 



MASSASOIT HOUSE. 


Worcester, (receiving travel from connecting roads,) Nashua, 
via Worcester and Nashua R. R., joining at Nashua the ex¬ 
press from Boston, Manchester, and along the Merrimack 
valley to Concord; and from that point continue by the Bos¬ 
ton, Concord & Montreal Railroad, reaching Plymouth, N. 
H., the same evening; stopping at the famous Pemigewasset 
House for the night, and continuing the journey to the Moun¬ 
tains in the morning. There is also an evening train, leav¬ 
ing New York at 8, p. M. This is the only rail route by which 
passengers can travel the entire distance by express trains 
and parlor cars. 












26 ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H. 


Note. —This route, taking the morning train, conveys the passenger through 
the interesting portion of Connecticut anrl M issachusetts, tho fair capital city of 
New IIaven, appropriately called tho “Elm City,” held in memory by the many 
graduates of the famed and ancient Yale College, founded in 1700. From New Ha¬ 
ven to the twin capital city of Hartford, calling up remembrances of the “ Con¬ 
vention ” and Charter 0 ik, and noted for the elaborate architecture of its elegant 
and permanent buildings, the wealth of its people and the collossal aud substan¬ 
tial growth of its Life and Fire Insurance Companies. The manufactures are ex¬ 
tensive, including Colt’s immense pistol works, covering 125 acres, Sharpe's rifle 
fact >ry and a wide variety of other interests. Central Park contains 40 acres 
and is au attractive spot. The splendid railroad station will attract your atten¬ 
tion aud you pass on to Springfield through the finest portion of the Connecticut 
Valley. Henceforth Hartford is to be the sole capital of the State. 

Springfield, located on the east bank of the Connecticut, is an important rail¬ 
road centre, noted for the beauty of its location, and chiefly for the United States 
Armory, the ouly considerable government manufactory of small arms in the 
country, there located. The buildings of the arm try hive an elevated location 
in the easterly portion of the city, an l are well worth a visit: here also are the 
extensive car works of the Wason Manufacturing Co., aud Smith and Wesson’s 
pistol works, both noted manufactories. 

Worcester, the heart of the Commonwealth, is an important railroad and trade 
ceutre, as a glance at the map will show you, and one of the most important 
inland cities in New England, manufacturing iron goods, tools and machinery iu 
wide variety. The people have a large average of wealth and are an enterprising, 
live and liberal community. The manufacture of wire of all kinds is extensively 
carried on here. 


ROUTE. 


From New York to Concord , N. II.—Shore Line. 

All Ra.il Route from New York to the Mountains . 

\ 

Leave New York, via Shore Line, from the Grand Central 
Station, Forty-second street, at 8 o’clock, p.m., via New York 
and New Haven Railroad, proceeding by express train in 
Wagner’s Sleeping cars, via Bridgeport, New Haven, New 
London, Stonington and Providence, along the shore of Long 
Island Sound and Narraganset Bay, an exceedingly pleasant 
route, with no vexatious delays, and superior accommoda¬ 
tions for comfort, through a network of thriving towns and 
cities (of which the space of our hand-book does not permit 
description.) The route is noticeable for its coolness and free¬ 
dom from dust. 

Taking ample time for rest in the fine reception rooms, and 
for breakfast in the depot dining-rooms at Providence, leave 
that point by the express train at 6. 20, a. m., via Mansfield, 
Framingham, (connecting with train from New York, via 
Springfield,) Lowell, (uniting here with train from Boston 
and Salem, no change of cars,) or 6.25, a. M., via Providence 
and Worcester Railroad, via Worcester and Clinton; 
thence to Nashua, Manchester, and along the Merrimack val¬ 
ley to Concord, N. H., from which point the route to the 
Lake and mountains is described in the succeeding pages. 


ROUTE. 

From Providence, R. I. to the Mountains, Montreal or Quebec, 

via Worcester. 


Leave Providence in the morning (see Time Tables), via 
Providence and Worcester Railway, connecting at Worcester 
with through White Mountain Express, with parlor cars, 
previously described in routes given from New York. Leave 
Worcester at 8 o’clock, a. m., and, passing directly on via 
Worcester and Nashua R. R., to Nashua, Manchester, and 
Concord—thence northward to Lake Winnipesaukee, Ply¬ 
mouth, Littleton, Franconia Notch, the White Mountains, 
Lancaster, Northumberland; (uniting at this junction with 
the Grand Trunk Railway for the Canadian cities. 


Note.—Providence is the principal port of entry and one of the capital cities 
of Rhode Island, and is the second city in population and wealth in New Eng¬ 
land. The location is upon both sides of Providence river, which is crossed by 
wide and commodious bridges. Its first settlement in 1636, by Roger Williams— 
exiled from Mass, for religious heresies—is too familiar to need repetition. The 
rock on which he landed on the bank of Seconk river is still pointed out. The 
City Hotel is a first class house where every comfort is provided, L. H. Humph¬ 
reys, proprietor. 

Brown University is one of the noted Colleges of the country, and the Educa¬ 
tional and Charitable Institutions of the city are numerous, and liberally endow 
ed. An extensive network of railroads terminate here, having a central station 
in the heart of the city, and steamers run to Bristol, Newport, Fall River, War¬ 
wick, Rocky Point and various places on Narragansett Bay. A sail down tlv'bay 
should, by all means, be taken. 


ROUTE. 

From Providence , R. I. to the Mountains , Montreal & Quebec, 

via Mansfield, Framingham and Nashua. 


Leave Providence (see Time Tables), via Mansfield and 
Framingham, Nashua and Acton R. Roads connectingat Mans¬ 
field with through White Mountain Express, with parlor cars; 
and, passing directly on to Nashua, Manchester and Concord 
—thence northward to Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, Lit¬ 
tleton, Franconia Notch, the White Mountains, Lancaster, 
Northumberland Junction, (uniting here with Grand Trunk 
Railway for the Canadas.) 


Note. —Few strangers will wish to leave Providence without visiting Newport, 
the elegant and fashionable New England watering place. A century ago it was 
a rival of New York in its foreign commerce. The town was virtually destroyed 
by the British in 1779 and two-thirds of the population deserted the place. Of 
late many elegant residences have been erected upon the elevations overlooking 
the sea. The town is rich in historical associations and localities and objects of 
rare interest. There is an inner and outer harbor, forming one of the finest in 
the country, each surrounding point and headland fraught with historic interest. 
The older portion of the city is crowded and ancient in appearance; the new 
town is built with liberal breadth of streets and display of architectural taste 
and elegance. The fleets of the world could ride at anchor in the deep and spa¬ 
cious harbor; the Forts, ancient and modern, the mysterious “Old Stone Mill,” 
the carefully preserved printing press on which Ben. Franklin worked in 1772 are 
important among the many sights not to be overlooked during your stay. 

Narragansett Pier is another popular resort at the southwestern shore of the 
bay, celebrated for the extensive ocean and inland views from Tower Hill and the 
good hotel accommodations and facilities for fishing, rowing or sailing, afforded 
at the Tower Hill House. 


KOTTTE. 

From Boston to the Mountains , Montreal and Quebec , 
via Lowell. 


Leave Boston by the Boston and Lowell Railroad, from 
the magnificent new passenger station, Causeway Street, at 
8 o’clock A. M. 


























































































































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32 


ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS, 


Leave Boston by the Boston and Lowell Railroad, from the 
magnificent new passenger station, Causeway street, at 8 
o’clock a,m. This new Passenger Station is the finest in New 
England, and, perhaps, in the U. S.; is complete in all its ar¬ 
rangements for the comfort and convenience of patrons of this 
line; has fine reception rooms and restaurants; is beautiful 
and unique in the style of architecture, and rich and ornamen¬ 
tal in material of construction. The roof being of glass, gives 
a pleasing and cheerful light not often seen in buildings of this 
class, and dispels that depressing gloom which often shadows 
the waiting traveller. 

Leaving this station the stranger looks with interest to the 
right upon historic ground in Charlestown, with the plain 
shaft on Bunker Hill rising now and then into view; the 
McLean Asylum for the Insane at Somerville will also be no¬ 
ticed, and you pass on to Lowell over one of the oldest lines 
of railway in the country, and, in the new improved parlor 
and fine monitor top cars of the line, with no delays, except¬ 
ing the necessary stoppages and for dinner, you take your 
journey to the mountains, by the express train, and are made 
as comfortable as modern enterprise can make you, with the 
added charm of a pleasant country on either hand as you 
thread the valley of the Merrimack. 

At Lowell the Concord river unites with the Merrimack 
furnishing the extensive water-power of this great manufact¬ 
uring site. Fifteen millions of capital are invested and fifteen 
thousand people are here employed in the extensive mills. 

From Lowell, after receiving travel from Salem over the 
Salem and Lowell railroad, and other lines (uniting here with 
New York Express) via. Norwich or Fall River, you journey 
along the Merrimack to Nashua, another of the thriving cities 
developed on the water-powers of the Merrimack, where we 
find the productions of the mills and shops not confined to the 
specialty of cotton fabrics, but ranging over a wide list of the 
useful and ornamental, the massive and the diminutive. 


MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, YIA LOWELL. 


33 



The Merrimac House, Lowell. 


Emery & Nute, Proprietors, is a new and first class Hotel. 

From Nashua there is little of special interest until Man¬ 
chester is reached—the largest city of the old Granite State. 
Though cotton manufacture may be considered the special 
feature of the products of Manchester, yet the locomotive 
works are of great importance. The Amoskeag Manufactur¬ 
ing Company have three millions of dollars in their business 
of manufacturing steam fire engines, machinery, and a wide 
diversity of products, Some ten miles west of Manchester 
are the two considerable peaks known as the “Twin Unca- 
noonucks,” said to be the first elevations seen by mariners 
approaching the coast, 

At the National House, opposite the Depot, those who 
tarry in Manchester will find comfort and good cheer. 

The substantial stone dam at Amoskeag Falls, built in the 
form of a half circle, will be observed upon the left as the 
train passes out of the City over the smooth and substantial 
road-bed of the Concord Railroad —one of the most impor¬ 
tant short trunk lines in the country—and with management 
worthy of its importance. W. A. Tower is the President, 
and H. E. Chamberlain, Superintendent. 















34 


ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS. 


The short ride to Concord is through the pleasant valley of 
the Merrimack, and past the improved water powers at Hook- 
sett (observe the sharp rocky “ Pinnacle” to the left,) and 
Suncook; and from Concord northward, giving connection 
at Weirs with Steamboat on Lake Winnipesaukee for Cen¬ 
tre Harbor (Stage and rail route from Centre Harbor to 
North Conway.) Also from Weirs passengers go by boat to 
Wolfeborough (rail route from Wolfeborough to North Con¬ 
way). 

From Plymouth the Pemigewasset Valley Stage Route di¬ 
verges through Campton, Woodstock and Lincoln to Franco¬ 
nia Notch and the Profile House. 

The train leaving Boston at 12 o’clock noon, by this route, 
connects with the boat on Lake Winnipesaukee, at Weirs, for 
Centre Harbor and Wolfeborough, and continues to Plymouth; 
also, (excepting in mid-winter,) night accommodation train 
over the-Boston, Concord and Montreal connects at Concord 
with the 6 o’clock trains from Boston, from Lowell Depot 
running through to Plymouth, N. H., the same night, and 
continuing to the mountains next morning. 


ROUTE. 

From Boston to the Mountains, Montreal and Quebec , 
via Lawrence. 

Leave the station of the Boston and Maine Railroad, in Hay- 
market square, at 7.30 A. M. As on the Lowell route, the view 
from the car windows, to the right as you leave the city, looks 
upon the Heights in Charlestown, and the shaft of Bunker Hill 
Monument—always an object of interest. 

This route for the first twelve miles passes through the net 
work of fine suburban towns and villages that have sprung 
up along the line of all important railways centering in the 
New England metropolis, and extending wider and in new 
localities as the years roll on. Somerville, Malden, Melrose, 
Wakefield and Reading are fine towns. The union of this 
road with the Salem and Lowell is at Wilmington Junction. 
Twenty-three miles from Boston the fine old town of Andover 
is reached. Here is the Theological Seminary founded in 
1807, for the purpose of providing a “learned, orthodox, and 
pious ministry.” It is under Congregational auspices but not 
closed to others. The Abbott Female Seminary, Phillips’ 
Acadamy (founded nearly a century ago), and the new Me¬ 
morial Hall, which will accommodate a free library, are of 
noticeable importance. The Mansion House is a good 
Hotel, C. L. Carter, Proprietor. 

Reaching the Merrimack, twenty-six miles from Boston, the 
fine buildings of the great cotton and woolen mills of Law¬ 
rence attract attention. Younger in years than most of the 
cities of New England, Lawrence holds an important place in 
the production of cotton, woolen, and worsted fabrics, and the 
manufacture of paper. 

Nearly thirteen thousand operatives are employed, and 
twelve million dollars of capital are invested. The Boston 
and Maine Railroad here diverges to the eastward, on its way 
to Portland, and we continue by way of the Manchester and 


36 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS, 

Lawrence Railroad, to Manchester, and from thence to Con¬ 
cord, as described in the route via Lowell, and on to the Mount¬ 
ains. 



Franklin House, T. W. Huse, Proprietor. 


TVindham, on the Manchester and Lawrence R. R^is the 
point of intersection with the Rochester and Nashua Railroad, 
soon to be opened, and completing a new through line, from 
Portland to New York, directly across the country, without 
making the circuit of the Coast. This line is being hurried 
to completion. 

There is also, over this route, the 12 o’clock noon train from 
Boston for Plymouth N. H., connecting at Weirs, on Lake Win- 
nipesaukee, with boat for Centre Harbor and Wolfeborough; 
and 5 o’clock night train from Boston running through to 
Plymouth (excepting in mid-winter), same as by the Lowell 
route, and continuing from Plymouth to the mountains the 
following morning. 













MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, YIA LAWRENCE. 


37 


Boston. —Either going or returning from the lakes and mountains, the stranger 
will wish to tarry for a short time in this good old city—the metropolis of New 
England. Philadelphia was a forest and New York an insignificant village long 
after Boston had become an important commercial town. This ancient and hon¬ 
orable city has, by natural growth, and by absorbing surrounding towns, become 
the fourth city in population in the Union, and is one of the first in point of 
average wealth and the culture and enterprise of its citizens. 

The old, revolutionary associations, the hallowed sites and many objects of in¬ 
terest in, and in the near vicinity of the city, attract the intelligent stranger. 
It is the second city in commercial importance in the U. S., and, in the culture of 
its people, the extent and grandeur of its charities and institutions, and the 
solidity of its finances it has no rival. 

Among the many places and points of interest, which strangers will visit, are 
Faneuil Hall—the old cradle of liberty—the Old South Church, now used as the 
Post Office, and under the shadow of which Franklin was born; the City Hall, 
with the Franklin Statue, on School Street, the new Post Office Building on Dev¬ 
onshire Street; Music Hall, with tho Great Organ, off Winter Street, the Athe¬ 
naeum, on Tremont Street; the Public Library on Boylston Street, and the In¬ 
stitute of Technology on Commonwealth Avenue. The outlook from tho cupola 
of the State House is one of rare interest. 

The world renowned Boston Common with the “Old Elm” where witches 
were hung, and beneath which Whitfield preached, an enclosure of 48 acres, is a 
spot more universally loved and resorted to by Bostonians and New Englanders 
than any other, being easily reached from any quarter of the city. The modern 
Public Garden, an enclosure of 22 acres, adjoining the Common, with the artistic- 
arrangements of its walks and ponds and fine statuary is worth a visit. 

In the Old Cemetery, on Copp’s Hill, are the graves of Cotton and Increase 
Mather and others known to fame. In the “ Granary Burying Ground,” on Tre- 
mont Street, are the graves of a long line of old colonial Governors, of the pat¬ 
riot Paul Revere, the famous patriot Statesmen John Hancock and Samuel 
Adams, and the parents of Benjamin Franklin. 

Bunker Hill, in the Charlestown District, will be visited by all lovers of coun¬ 
try; the outlook gained by ascending the monument is one of the finest to be 
found. While here, visit also the Navy Yard and Dock, important among the 
nuval stations of the country. 

A trip to Cambridge, the site of Harvard College, where also may be seen the 
old “Washington head-quarters, the noted Elm under which Washington as¬ 
sumed chief command, and Mount Auburn Cemetery, the resting place for the 
dead made attractive and beautiful by lavish expenditure and cultured taste. 

To the man of wealth, leisure and culture, perhaps no city in America has so 
many advantages as a place of residence as Boston, and no city in the country 
has, in its immediate vicinity, or, within a circuit of twenty miles, so complete a 
network of cities and towns of importance, desirable as places of residence, beau¬ 
tiful and attractive in location and convenience of access. 

Summer excursions by steamboat to Hull, Ilingham and Nahant, and trips 
among the islands and return, are made daily, from different points, and are 
patronized by the best of people. 


38 


ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS, 


In the matter of Hotels, Boston has many worthy of its fame. 



The American House, Lewis Rice & Son, Proprietors, on Hanover Street is 
first class in its appointments, central in location and managed by popular and 
well known gentlemen. 

The Revere House, Parker House, United States Hotel, (opposite Boston 
& Albany R. R. Station), the Commonwealth, St. James and Clarendon Hotels 
aie among the most central and best managed of the popular Hotels, with others 
ot, perhaps, equal merit, which want of space forbids mentioning. 




















































































































































































































































































































CHAPTER II. 



NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 

NEW HAMPSHIRE. 


The ancient name of New Hampshire, or of the old prov¬ 
ince which comprised it, was Laconia —so called by reason 
of the great lakes therein. It was enfeoffed to Capt. John 
Mason, with Sir Fernando Gorges, Kt., (1629,) described in 
the grant as “ lying and bordering upon the great lakes of the 
Iriquois and other nations adjoining, extending back to the 
great rivers of Canada;” and described in an English, book 
on America,published in London (1658), as “having the Sag- 
ad ahock and Myrameck rivers on the New-England sea- 
coast;” also “thegreat lakes that tend towards California and 
the South Sea , on the west thereof .” “The air thereof is pure 
and wholesome, the country pleasant, having some high hills 
full of goodly forests and fair vallies and plains of fruitful 
corn, vines, nuts, and infinite sort of fruits; large rivers, en¬ 
vironed with goodly meadows full of timber-trees.” 

An act of the General Assembly, (1704,) made it the duty 
of every householder within the several towns of the prov¬ 
ince, “to provide one good pair of snow-shoes, and moga- 
sheens, (with penalty for default,) and to replace and repair 
the same, the better to enable them to pursue the enemy in 
winter.” 




40 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


The Granite Commonwealth has been described as a good 
place to emigrate from; and, perhaps no State in the Union 
retains so few of its enterprising sons on the homesteads 
among the hills: but, it may also be safely asserted that no 
other State has more reason to be proud of the sons and 
daughters sent forth to the world, and to no spot do the absent 
look back with more of affection and reverent love. That 

****** the land 

Of storms and mountains hath the noblest sons; 

Whom the world reverences.” 

is proved to be true of this land of hills, as well as of other 
lands, and in other times. The wildness of the mountain 
scenery, in the northern section of the State, attracts that ar¬ 
my of visitors for whose use this book has been prepared. 

THE MERRIMACK RIVER. 

“Our Christian river loveth most 
The beautiful and human ; 

The heathen streams of Naiads boast, 

But ours of man and woman.” 

By whichever way the capital of the State is approached 
from the south, the way for several miles is along the banks 
of the fair Merrimack, preeminently the river of uses, sub¬ 
servient to almost every industry. 

It was said in the quaint language of the early discoverers, 
to be a “ faire, large river, well replenished with fruitful isles; 
the country pleasant, full of goodly forests and faire vallies,” 
a description that answers well for the present, though made 
when its waters ran unvexed to the sea. 

Rising in sources more than five thousand feet above sea 
level, the Pimigewasset and Winnipesaukee rivers unite at 
Franklin, forming the Merrimack. The Winnipesaukee is 
the outlet of the great lake, and the water-power companies 
of the cities below have wisely provided artificial means to 
retain in this great natural reservoir a reserve of power in 
times of drought. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


41 


Along the banks of this fair stream we are now whirled. 
As its sources are more varied, so are its uses more manifold 
than any stream of its extent and volume in the world. Gath¬ 
ered from infant streams, born in the placid ponds of the 
Franconia Valley, and high up on the summit of Mount Wil¬ 
ley, in the Crawford Notch, and receiving waters from the 
outlets of Winnipesaukee, Squam and Newfound lakes, from 
the slopes of distant Monadnock and Kearsage, through the 
Contoocook, Blackwater and tributaries; and, farther down, 
from the outlet of Massabesic, the Suncook, Souhegan, Nash¬ 
ua, Concord, Spicket and Shawsheen rivers, it discharges 
into the Atlantic, after its broken and busy flow of 260 miles 
by its course. 

The fine imagination of Whittier thus invokes the fair 
stream, at a merry gathering upon the river bank: 

“ Bring us the airs of the hills and forests, 

The sweet aroma of birch and pine, 

Give us a waft of the north wind laden 
With sweet brier odors and breath of kine! 

Lead us away in shades and sunshine, 

Slaves of fancy, through all thy miles, 

The winding ways of the Pemigewasset, 

And Winnipesaukee’s hundred isles.” 

Lowell, Nashua, Manchester and Lawrence are the chief 
manufacturing centres utilizing its power; with a host of 
lesser towns, upon its banks and tributaries, deriving their 
importance from the water-powers here so generally used. 

CONCORD, N. H. 

This capital city of the good Granite State is a steady-going, 
thrifty and eminently respectable municipality; one of the 
cleanest and most well-to-do of New England cities : lacking 
water-power to attract the heavy manufacturers, it is depend¬ 
ent upon its central position for trade, and its importance as 
the political centre of the State, for its elements of growth. 
The town was described, in a petition of the inhabitants of 
the town of Romford to the General Assembly of the prov¬ 
ince, 1775, as “having Mansion Houses, Fortifications and 


42 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


out-houses, well formed for defence, being on the Merrimack’ 
River about a day’s march below the confluence of the Win- 
nipishoky and Pemmissawassett Rivers.” In this petition 
the inhabitants ask that their “antient and well-regulated 
settlement may have seasonable aid for protection against a 
bloodthirsty and merciless enemy, who threaghten the life of 
the settlement, and render danger of evacuation eminent.” 

The State House is finely situated in the heart of the city, 
between Maine and State streets, and the enclosed grounds, 
some two acres in extent, are laid out in pleasant walks. 

Sons of New Hampshire who may tarry here, if but for an 
hour, should visit the gallery of portraits of eminent sons of 
the State, including a recently collected series of paintings 
of the local Governors, from the courtly features and dress of 
the old colonial times, through the long line of rulers of this 
wisely and lightly governed commonwealth, down to the 
well-known and much abused modern governor. In the Sen¬ 
ate-chamber are the portraits of the presiding officers of the 
Senate, who have been among the most eminent men of the 
State. 

In the Representative’s Hall are fine portraits of General 
John Stark, of Bennington fame; also of Gen. Alex’r Scham- 
mel and Gen. Enoch Poor, companions and intimates of La¬ 
fayette,—with other fine portraits more universally known. 

The State Asylum for the Insane, with its extensive^ build¬ 
ings and grounds, is upon a gradual swell of land on the 
western limits of the city proper. The State Prison is some¬ 
what ancient in its appearance, but safely holds its inmates, 
and is so centrally located as to stand a continual warning to 
good citizens to continue in the way of well-doing. 

From the granite quarries of Concord have been built many 
of the finest structures of the adjacent, as well as distant 
cities. The quarrying of this superior building stone, from 
neighboring hills, is an important industry of the city. 

Concord coaches are a specialty in carriage manufac¬ 
ture : wherever you ride by coach-lines, whether over the 
picturesque White Mountain roads, the wide reaches of the 
western border, on the plains of Mexico, or the Steppes of 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


43 


Central America, the well known name of Concord makers 
is* upon the vehicle which conveys you; and, if the horses 
are housed in the famous Concord harness manufactured here 
by James R. Hill, Esq., you have added security for safe 
passage and delivery; for nowhere in the country is better 
material or more honest labor put into carriage and harness 
work than is done by these makers, whose wide local reputa¬ 
tion has become a national one: their work is in demand 
wherever superior workmanship and material is required. 

Concord was incorporated as a towif by the government of 
Massachusetts in 1783, under the name of Rumford. The 
massacre of five citizens of the town by Indians, in 1746, is a 
matter of history well known to all familiar with local rec¬ 
ords. A plain granite monument on the Hopkinton road 
marks the vicinity of the tragedy. 

The St. Paul School, for boys, is a flourishing institution 
at Millville, some two miles from the city proper, on the Hop¬ 
kinton road and Turkey river. There are tasty buildings, in 
a pretty location, in the quiet valley. The School is under 
the patronage of the Episcopal denomination, and is a model 
institution, liberally patronized. 

Long before the white man ruled in the realm, the centre 
of savage authority was at Pennacook, the Indian village lo¬ 
cated on the present site of the city. The Pennacooks were 
a powerful tribe, and Passaconnaway, their great Sangamon, 
was a savage ruler, and counsellor of acknowledged wisdom 
and power, to whom the lesser tribes were tributary. 

Concord is not wanting in good hotels; and whether your 
stay here be short or for a long time, all the substantial com¬ 
forts and desirable conveniences which guests may desire, 
can be had for reasonable charges, at the 


44 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 



Presided over by J. R. Crocker, Esq., a popular and effi¬ 
cient landlord. Excellent rooms and gentlemanly attendance, 
with substantial plenty, are sure to be found. The location 
is in the centre of business, on Main street, near to Railway 
Station, with free coaches for patrons to and from all trains. 

Also, at the 













































SOME MINGS THEY SAY ABOUT 

"THE CONSORD HARNESS.” 

No Man Claims to do More. 

The Harness and Carriage Makers' Journal under date 
of Jan. 13, 1872, in an article on harness, says:—‘“T ub 
Concord Harhess ’ deservedly holds a high reputation 
in the trade. St is better than anything of the 
kintl made in Europe, and has a great repu¬ 
tation abroad. In South America and Australia it 
commands the highest prices, and wherever good 
harness is appreciated in America, the custom- 
made warranted work of Concord is preferred for all 
kinds of service. This harness, manufactured exclu¬ 
sively by J. R. Hill & Co. of Concord, N. H., has a 
reputation for excellence which it has been found 
necessary to protect from imitation by procuring a patent 
on the trade-mark, which is ‘ THE CONCORD HAR¬ 
NESS.’ 

“The business has grown up with the country from a 
small beginning, and has assumed proportions that 
make it one of the prominent representative 
private industries of the country, and lias given 
character not only to the harness manufacture of the 
State, hut also to that of New England, for the 
reason that NO MAN in the business CLAIMS to do 
more than make as good a harness as JAS. 
B. HILL & CO. of Concord.” 


The Best Harness that can be Made. 

The Idaho Statesman under date of February, 1874, in 
referring to the celebrated Concord Harness, says:—“ They 
very truthfully say, ‘if you once buy our harness we shall 
expect to sell you all the harness you use.’ We have 
ivied the Concord Harness and wonltl recom¬ 
mend every man who wants a harness to send 
to J. R. Hill & Co. at Concord, N. H., describing the kind 
of harness he wants,-and he will get the best har¬ 
ness that can be made, and AS CHEAP as if 
he were there to contract in person.” 


Superior in Style. 

“ We have sold their (the Concord) Harness for the last 
seven years, and wo pronounce them to be SUPERIOR 
IN STYLE and DURABILITY to any other 
Eastern harness. We keep a complete assortment of 
them.’* 

GW INN & BRAINERD, Pelaluma, Cal. 


Ss Sufficient for all Purposes. 

In reference to the popularity and good qualities of 
“The Concord Harness,” the California Farmer, 
wiiting under date of Sept. 14,1860, in reviewing the busi¬ 
ness of Main & Winchester, prominent dealers in San 
Francisco, and who were at that time acting as agents of 
Messrs. Hill & Co., says:—“ They are so widely 
ami well known, llie mention of the fact 
that they have the Concord Harness for sale is suffi¬ 
cient for all purposes.” 


“Will Never Change it for Another.” 

The Chicago Evening Post under date of May 11, 1872, 
says:—“Those who purchase the Concord Harness will 
never, under any consideration, change it for 
another kind. It is not over expensive, is made from the 
best materials, and WILL LAST AS LONG AS IT IS 
POSSIBLE TO MAKE ANYTHING MANUFACTURED BY 
HUMAN SKILL ENDURE.” 

You will please bear in mind that the firm make every 
description of Harness, and the customer can have his 
tastes gratified in every particular, and the harness 
made to his exact liking. 


First Harness ever used in a Kingdom. 

The Harness and Carriage Makers’ Journal under date 
of Jan. 28,1871, in an article referring to the manufacture 
of Harness and Carriages in New England, says:—“It is 
said that the first harness ever used in Bolivar, S. A., was 
made by this firm. Be that as it may, they are, undoubt¬ 
edly, among the pioneers of the business in the shipment 
of harness, not only to all parts of this continent, 
but to the other civilised countries of the world. 
Here every class and style of harness is manu¬ 


factured, from Ihe liglitcMt nml HiicmI buggy 
nnd carriage to the heaviest farm and stage harness, 
all stitched by hand. During the past five years the estab¬ 
lishment has furnished some of the nicest and most 
recherche turn-outs to be found on the fa.liionablc 
drive* of the country. They also make a large number 
of coach, express, and peddlers’ harness, and 
have an extensive trade with harness-makers, sad- 
db ry men, and horse, carriage and harness dealers.” 


SOME ADDITIONAL THINGS WE HAVE TO SAY 



Information for those who desire to purchase or use 
“THE CONCORD HARNESS,” 

Which has received the unqualified commendation of every 
one who has used them, in every part of this country and 
in foreign lands. 

We shall keep its manufacture fully up to the high 
standard we have adopted. Having increased our facilities 
for manufacturing, we are now prepared to fill more 
orders than ever before, and are filling orders to the trade 
all over the country. 

The reputation our Harnesses have acquired during the 
past thirty years, renders it unnecessary for us to say but 
little in regard to their merits; but as some may not have 
had the opportunity of becoming acquainted with their 
value and our method of making them, we would say, for 
the information of all such, that they are made in the most 
thorough manner, from the best of stock and materials, 
all of which are selected by ourselves with great care; and 
the test of every climate from East to West, and from 
between North and South, proves them to be unequaled. 

Our great experience in the business, and using such 


Cl) 


(?) 


(3) 































large quantities of stock, enables us to sell the customer a 
BETTER HARNESS for the same OR LESS MONEY than 
can be obtained of any other party in this country. 

We give our entire attention to our business, and every 
Harness is made under onr personal super¬ 
vision. Our work is all custom-made and stitched by 
hand ! No Harness is made from one side of leather, but 
the several parts are taken from the leather especially 
adapted for their respective use, but all from one kind of 
leather. We are thus enabled to get perfect straps iu 
every part of the Harness, where otherwise it 
would be impossible; especially when the harness maker 
may have enly a limited stock or supply of leather from 
which to select. We are very particular about our leather, 
and the results have proved that IT IS THE BEST TO 
BE HAD. 

Another and important feature in a Harness is to have 
it fit the horse. This should not be lost sight of. A “ good 
fit” is as essential for the fine appearance and look of n 
Harness, as that of a garment to an individual. In all our 
Harnesses we intend to combine neatneioi, sym¬ 
metry, strengtil anil durability. 

All of our Harnesses are custom-made, and if you once 
buyout Harness we shall expect to sell you all 
the Harness you use, and, through your recom¬ 
mendation, expect to sell to your friends and neigh¬ 
bors their Harness. From this you can see we have an 
interest in having every Harness we make ALL RIGHT 
IN EVERY PARTICULAR. 

This business is no new thing with us. For a third of a 
century we have been building up the reputation of "THE 
CONCORD HARNESS," and each year brings us new and 
additional business from every part of the country. 

ALL WE ASK is a fair trial of our Harness, and when 
we have that we know what the result will be. 


You may say that you can buy Harness cheater at home, 
and save expense and trouble. You probably can buy a 
cheap Harness for less than we should charge for a good 
set; but remember it is not always the cheapest to start 
with that is the cheapest in the end. You will find by 
experience that in stock and trimmings, and the manner 
of making Harness there is A GREA T DIFFERENCE, 
and we claim that OCR HARNESS ARE MADE OF 
SUPERIOR LEATHER to that used by harness makers 
generally, and the trimmings and mountings being made 
especially for us, of the best quality, REG ARDLESS OF 
COST, gives us a great advantage over all other harness 
makers who do a small and limited business. 

PLEASE REMEMBER 

That the quality and standard of "The Concord Harness” 
WAS NEVER HIGHER than at the present time, and it 
WILL BE OUR GREAT AIM to give ENTIRE SATISFAC¬ 
TION to all who may use them. 

We wish it distinctly understood that our Trade- 
JIark consists of the words 

“The Concord Harness.” 

We stamp our firm name and residence as well as 
our Trade-Mark, on all of our Harnesses. As we are 
protected by law in our manufacture, we give 

SPECIAL NOTICE, 

That any party attempting to make or sell any Harness 
not made by us as “The Concord Harness,” will be pros¬ 
ecuted promptly and to the end of the law. 

We would also call your attention to 

“The Concord Collar,” 

Which has been so well known during the past thirty 


years throughout the country, both to the trade and the 
consumers. When they have once been used by 

The Farmer, Teamster, Stage and Liverymen, 

They are always wanted afterwar Is. We do not try to 
see how cheap, but how good a Collar we can make. 
Every one is made in the most thorough manner from 
the best of stock, all of which is prepared expressly for 
us; and the style is with especial reference for the ease 
and comfort of the horse, having that peculiar shape to 
fit the neck of the animal —the bellies being stuffed with 
wool flocks to render them soft and comfortable, and to 
prevent galling or sore shoulders. 

You will please bear in mind that we are the original 
and only makers of the Genuine Concord Har¬ 
ness and Collars. Every Collar we make has our firm 
name and residence stamped on them, and any Collars not 
so stamped are not The Genuine Concord Collars. 
Every one selling an imitation Collar and representing it 
as our make, will be dealt with according to, and to the 
extent of the law. 

Carefully look over all we say, and become satisfied in 
your own mind that we talk and mean square 
business and then 

ACT. 

For prices, circulars, or any information concerning 
Harness, address 

Your most obedient servants, 

James R. Hill & Co., 

CONCORD, N. H. 

Only Makers of “THE CONCORD HARNESS.” 


( 4 ) 


(5) 


(6) 































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


45 



Eagle Hotel, 


kept by John A. White, Esq., all the essentials of a first 
class house are found, with an excellent table, courteous at¬ 
tendants and spacious rooms, with liberal furnishing. The 
location is central, fronting the State capitol buildings and 
grounds. 


NORTHWARD FROM CONCORD. 

The route to the Mountains or Canadas, from Concord, is 
over the Boston, Concord, Montreal and White Mountains 
Railroad. Once upon its express trains, we are driven 
mountainward with speed and safety; and, if it is the season 
of recreation, and you have given care to the winds, you will 
read with curiosity the faces of traveling companions, and 













































46 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


study the peculiarities of fellow-passengers who thread a 
common thoroughfare, having a common object. Here are 
celebrities escaping high life and notoriety for a quiet time of 
peace and seclusion; shy natures courting voluntary banish¬ 
ment among the rocks and echoes; poets seeking near com¬ 
munion with nature and the 

“ Music of birds and rustling of young boughs, 

And sound of swaying branches and the 
Voice of distant waterfalls:” 

Merchants from the routine of the counting-house, bluff sea- 
captains, exchanging the monotonous view of the rolling bil¬ 
lows for the picturesque changes of a mountainous landscape; 
overworked pastors, with leave of absence and continued 
salary, seeking rest for a season from the delivery of prosy 
discourses to restless congregations, to read “ sermons in 
stones,” written by the hand of an Almighty Author on im¬ 
perishable granite walls: the Princess of song, mayhap, is 
on the way to learn that her art, with all its wonderful perfec¬ 
tion, is but a poor imitation of the song of the 

“ Wild brook babbling down the mountain side,” 

Or “A full choir of feathered choristers 

Wedding their notes to the enamoured air.” 

The artist is bound for a pilgrimage among the quiet beau¬ 
ties of North Conway, or the sweet vales of Campton, the 
loveliness of which he will transcribe, so far as human art 
may do it, ere he returns to the restraints of the studio: the 
pale invalid has a flush of hope, in view of expected relief 
from bodily ills among the pure breezes and the savage rigor 
of the hills: but the happiest of all are the children—verita¬ 
ble innocents abroad—to whom the 

“ Echo of cascade and Voice of mountain brook” 

bring a joy unsullied by care, and on whose plastic minds 
the shadows and outlines of the great hills fall with* force un¬ 
appreciated by the older travelers. 

There is enough of the savage inherent in man to make 
unrestrained liberty of movement sweet, however much it 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


47 


may have been schooled in the harness of conventionality, or 
hampered by the restraints of custom; and, to most of us 
who have escaped for a time from city life, the freedom in 
store is a blest relief. 

“No crowd impedes onr way, 

No city walls restrain our further hounds; 

Where the wild flock can wander we may stray, 

The long day through, mid Summer sights and Rounds.’ 

THE BOSTON, CONCORD, MONTREAL AND WHITE 
MOUNTAIN RAILROAD. 

This line, over which we are now passing, is one of those 
shrewdly and liberally managed interior lines of travel which 
have acquired a wide reputation for good management with 
the great army of pleasure travelers who largely patronize 
this route in the summer months; threading the shores of 
Lake Winnipisaukee and the outlying bays, thence northward 
along the valley of Baker’s River to the fair Connecticut val¬ 
ley ; thence over the White Mountains division, by the Am- 
monoosuc valley, to the Mountains and Canadian cities. The 
passenger has the advantage of picturesque scenery, while 
speed and safety are attained by making use of first class 
rolling stock, and of all the modern appliances and conven¬ 
iences of Railway travel. J. E. Lyon, Esq. of Boston, the 
veteran Railway manager, is the President and controling 
spirit of the road, with J. A. Dodge, Esq., of Plymouth, N. 
H., as Superintendent—a gentleman who combines the rare 
qualities, invaluable when united, of great efficiency with 
gentlemanly address and reliability. 

Parlor cars are run on all through Express trains. Tickets 
may be purchased, information obtained, and general direc¬ 
tions given at the passenger agency of this road, No. 5, State 
street, Boston, or at the office of the General Ticket Agent, 
at Plymouth, N. H. 

After leaving the Merrimack intervales, above Concord, 
the stations are not such as to particularly interest the stran¬ 
ger, nor is the Country sufficiently attractive to charm or in¬ 
terest you, until you reach the Station at Tilton, at which 


48 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


place is located the N. H. Conference Seminary and Female 
College. The School building is seen on the high ground to 
the left. Stages run from this point to Gilmanton Centre and 
New Hampton and to Franklin, N. H. 

Shortly after leaving Tilton station the waters of lake Win- 
nesquam are seen to the left. This lake, or outlying bay of 
Winnipesaukee, is a lovely sheet of water formerly known as 
Sanbornton Bay, or Great Bay. 

LACONIA. 

This thriving village, 27 miles from Concord, is an enter¬ 
prising and live manufacturing village, desirable as a place of 
residence and important as a trade centre. The name “ La¬ 
conia” was originally given to the whole region lying about 
the lakes and mountains. 

Here are located the Belknap Mills, Ranlet Car Company 
with Iron Foundries and machine shops, a Bank of Discount 
and two Savings Banks with all the accessories of a desirable 
country village. 

The Laconia House, kept by Elkins Brothers is a new and 
commodious house, affording visitors substantial comforts and 
all needed requisites for a pleasant temporary home. A stage 
line runs from here to Alton Bay, The drive to Centre Har¬ 
bor is one of rare interest, and the Belknap and G unstock 
Mountains are often visited from this point; the view from 
the highest summit gives the eye wide range of the whole ex¬ 
tent of the lake from a central point. Good teams for drives 
can be had at the above named hotel. The pleasant residen¬ 
ces and tasty church buildings of the village attract attention 
as the through passenger is hurried on to 

LAKE VILLAGE, 

the next railway station, another thriving town of attractive 
appearance, important as the place where are located the 
construction and repair shops of the Boston, Concord and 
Montreal Railroad line, with manufactories of machinery and 
mill castings (Cole Manufacturing Co.,) Hosiery mills and 
other mills of importance for making of knitting machines, 
needles, &c. 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


49 



The Mount Belknap House 


is a commodious brick structure, near the railway station; 
David B. Story, Esq., is the obliging landlord; and those 
who may tarry here for a time will find no lack of pleasant 
drives in the surrounding region, and no one should fail to 
make the trip to the summit of Belknap. For these trips Mr. 
S. will furnish good teams at reasonable rates. The stage 
from Laconia to Alton Bay connects here. 

From Lake Village the railway skirts the shores of Long 
Bay, lying to the right, an outlying portion of the lake proper. 
The lake itself now comes in view as you reach the small and 
unpretending station standing in solitary importance, and 

WEIRS, 

probably so called for the reason that here were located the 
fish-weirs, or nets, of the Indians. 

This is the steamboat landing on Lake Winnipisaukee, 
where passengers can leave by the commodious steamer, 
“ Lady of the Lake,” Capt. S. B. Cole, and enjoy the de¬ 
lightful sail of ten miles, through the finest portion of the 
Lake, to the quiet and picturesque hamlet at the head of cen¬ 
tral northern bay, so loved by artists and sought by lovers of 
beauty and quiet—known as Centre IIaruor, fully described 
in next chapter. 


i 











CHAPTER III. 


LAKE WINNIPISAUKEE AND VICINITY. 


This is the ancient “ Winnapusscawkit, Winnipaseket or 
Winipasckek.” If it be not sacrilege to apply measurement 
to the molton surface, or impossible to compute in miles so 
irregular a form,'we may say, in general terms, that the 
length of the lake is some twenty-five miles, varying in width 
from less than one to seven miles in its greatest breadth, 
giving about 70 sq. miles surface. Its elevation above sea 
level is 496 feet. The waters are of a deep, clear and trans¬ 
parent green. The islands (more than three hundred in num¬ 
ber) have clearly defined, and, with some exceptions, low, 
rocky shores, and are covered with greenest foliage. On 
Diamond Island, which is a sort of half-way station for the 
boats from the lake landings, and at which the “ Lady of the 
Lake” makes a short stop in its trip from Wolfeoborough to 
Weirs, is a comfortable hotel, accommodating some fity guests, 
and is a place of resort for picnic, pleasure and fishing parties, 
and a favorite dining station for excursionists. Bear Island, 
of considerable extent, is also resorted to by excursion par¬ 
ties, Long Island, Governor’s Island, Rattlesnake Island, and 
Cow Island are the larger of the isles which dot the lake; 
some have cultivated farms, others are used solely for pastur¬ 
age, others are sacred to picnic and pleasure parties, while the 
small low isles, with their tangled growth, are the paradise of 
ungainly waterfowl. 

The central extent of nearly unbroken water, is known as 













































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































52 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


“ The Broads.” The outlet is through the waters of Great 
Bay and the swift Winnipisaukee river, which joins the Mer¬ 
rimack at Franklin. Its source of supply is a matter of spec¬ 
ulation ; no large streams find their way into it and much of 
the surrounding water-shed is drained into other lakes and 
rivers having other outlets: many small brooks enter from 
the shores but the outlet is an important and rapid stream, 
and the wide surface is exposed to evaporation; yet, with 
such apparent lack of supply, its banks are always full, forc¬ 
ing the conclusion that its volume is supplied largely by invis¬ 
ible springs of great number and force fed by the surrounding 
mountains. 

The Indian tribes who gave to the lake its musical name, 
found in its waters and on its shores inexhaustible supplies 
for their rude subsistence. Their frail canoes were thick 
upon its waters long before the artist sketched its outlines; 
their ahquedaukens, or “ fish-weirs,” furnished supply of food 
without limit, and the fertile shores provided the growth of 
corn. Old inhabitants tell of a tree once standing near at 
hand, on which was carved the legends of the Ossipee tribe in 
quaint Indian characters. Fishing in the waters of the lake 
rarely fails to be amply rewarded. The trout in deep waters, 
and pickerel in shallow places among the reeds and lilies are 
the most sought. The cusk, perch, and toothsome but inele¬ 
gant and unpopular “ pout,” are also easily taken in abund¬ 
ance. 

The loveliness which invests with “charms artistic and in¬ 
finite” the cluster of bays which combine in the lake proper, 
is not easily described by words or transmitted by brush or 
pencil. The combination of summits, slopes and forests, 
green lines of shore winding in charming curves of symmet¬ 
rical beauty, and sometimes, not often, the whole blending 
system of hills, forests, shores and islands reproduced in the 
still waters—a hanging shadow picture of wondrous beauty, 
beyond the reach of art to transcribe, is one to be remembered 
for a lifetime. 

Moving over the lake in the steamer, from Weirs to Centre 
v Harbor, an ever-changing succession of pictures is presented. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


53 


The Sandwich and Osssipee mountains to the right, with 
glimpses of old Chucorua far to the north, and slopes of for¬ 
est, green hillsides, and fertile pastures, with the nearer view 
of Red Hill and the surrounding elevations fronting your 
course, the twin peaks of Belknap or Gunstock mountains 
behind you, and the wondrous beauty of island gemmed sur¬ 
face and constantly changing outlines of the grander shores, 
all blend in a scene not to be forgotten. In finest weather 
you have for a few moments a view of the crown of Mount 
Washington—the Mecca of the mountain tourists—dim, dis¬ 
tant and golden. 

The name in the Indian language signifies “ The smile of 
the Great Spirit,” or the “Pleasant Water of the High Place.” 
The testimony of Everett, Starr King and Bartok, among our 
own writers, and of travelers from foreign lands, to whom 
the loveliness of other scenes is familiar, all unite in praise 
of the perfection of beauty here revealed, “Mid shadowy hills 
and misty mountains, all covered with showery light, as with 
a veil of airy guaze.” 

CENTRE HARBOR 

is at the head of the Central North-end Bay. Here the vis¬ 
itor may tarry and take luxurious ease and perfect rest at th<^. 
commodious hotels, row, or sail upon the Lake in boats to be 
had for the purpose, watch the play of the shadows upon the 
mirror of waters and the many hills, or make the “ not to be 
omitted” excursion to Red Hill, or the drive of four miles 
“ around the ring.” There is an elevation about a mile from 
the hotels which affords a fine outlook. Excellent teams are 
furnished for the attractive drives hereabout, and private 
teams are well cared for. 

At the Senter House, J. L. Huntress, proprietor, first 
class fare, attendance and rooms will be found. The loca¬ 
tion is near the shore of the Lake; the grounds are ample, 
and piazzas broad and inviting to cozy and luxurious ease. 
All but chronic grumblers can here be entertained with all 
needful comforts and conveniences. 









































































































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


55 



Moulton House. 


At the Moulton House, S. F. Emery, proprietor, good 
rooms and good cheer await you at all times, and patrons 
will find all the needful provisions for making comfortable 
either a prolonged or temporary stay, including teams and 
every thing needful for the man of leisure, the sportsman, or 
families and parties seeking rest or pleasure. 

Occasionally an independent tourist strikes from this point 
across the country, by neglected by-roads, in the direction of 
Franconia, and finds rare views to compensate for his travel 
in different stages of the journey. Squam Lake should be 
visited, 3| miles from the village—a miniature Winnipisau- 
kee. 

RED HILL, 

distant from Centre Harbor some five miles to the summit, 
should be visited. From this elevation (of 2500 feet,) a view 
is had equalled in beauty by none other in this immediate vi¬ 
cinity. The wide reach of that cluster of silver bays, which, 
with the lake proper, give unrivalled variety and beauty to 
Winnipisaukee, lying like a mirror in its framework of 
rounded swelling hills, pre-eminent in placid beauty, is here 












56 


“NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


spread beneath the eye. Starr King beautifully says of the 
lake view from this summit: “ Here is the place to study its 
borders, to admire the fleet of islands that ride at anchor upon 
its bosom, from the little shallops to the grand three-deckers, 
and to enjoy the exquisite lines by which its bays are enfold¬ 
ed, and in which its coves retreat, and with which its low 
capes cut the azure and hang over it in emerald fringe.” 
The hill takes its name from a shrub covering its sides, the 
leaves changing to brilliant red in the fading autumn. The 
splendor of a sunrise view from this elevation, on a summer 
morning, is said to be beautiful beyond description. 

The route from Center Harbor to North Conway and the 
Glen House is by stage line, 11. A. R. Benson, proprietor, 
running along the base of Red Hill, through Moultonborough, 
the village of Sandwich, Sandwich Notch, Tamworth and 
Ossipee, to the Station on Great Falls and Conway branch of 
Eastern R. R. The distance from Centre Harbor to North 
Conway is about 32 miles, one half by stage line. The Bear- 
camp River Hotel, at West Ossipee, (formerly Banks House,) 
J. L. Plummer, proprietor, is a favorite resort for anglers, 
hunters and lovers of the picturesque. Excursions from this 
point to Ossipee and Chucorua Lake are frequently taken: it 
is also a favorite point from which to view the ragged spurs 
of Chucorua. 

This stage route, though somewhat rugged, gives a grand 
panoramic view of the mountains .at that distance, which 
lends enchantment to their bold outlines. There are occa¬ 
sional sharp and tiresome hills on the route. Ossipee Moun¬ 
tain will haunt you during the drive. Passaconoway and 
Wliiteface are lofty peaks, 4,200 and 4,100 ft., elevation, re¬ 
spectively. 

The Sandwich range of mountains is to the west and 
north, terminating in the peaks of Chucorua, with its mas¬ 
sive symmetrical and precipitous ledges, 3,400 feet in height, 
desolate with the legendary curse of the dying chief whose 
name it bears. 

Of North Conway, with its secluded charms set about with 
circling majesty of distant mountains, we will give a full ac- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


57 


count in a succeeding chapter. The other most important 
and picturesque village on the shore of Winnipisaukee is 

WOLFEBOROUGH, 

on the eastern shore of the Lake—settled some five years 
before the Revolution, also reached by boat from Centre Har¬ 
bor and Weirs. Around this romantic village, located on 
ridges of land affording fine views, are many pleasant drives. 
Chief among the attractions is the ascent of Copple Crown 
Mountain, (2,100 feet elevation,) about five miles distant from 
the hotels. The ascent is not difficult, the carriage road 
reaching within a mile of the summit. The view takes in 
nearly the whole extent of the Lake, the ragged spurs of 
Chucorua, the massive Ossipee, and overtopping dome of 
Mount Washington; and, across the Lake, M’ts. Belknap 
and Gunstock. 

Sometimes, in the far distance, the blue ocean can be seen, 
and the wide landscape is dotted with more than a score of 
ponds of various dimensions. There is also a favorite view 
to be had from the lesser elevation of “Tumble-Down-Dick.” 
Smith’s Pond is a place of resort for sportsmen and others; 
and moonlight excursions on Lake Winnipisaukee from this 
point are often made to the lasting pleasure of all. A poetic 
writer has described the waters as lying in the soft moon¬ 
light, “burnished into liquid acres of a faint and golden 
splendor.” Wolfeborough has direct railroad communication 
with Boston and the east, and with Conway by the Wolf- 
borough branch of the Great Falls and Conway line, while 
the daily boat trips to Weirs, on the Concord and Montreal 
line, and to Alton Bay, give unusual facilities for visitors to 
choose among rival routes. 

THE WOLFEBOROUGH PAVILION 

is a fine and commodious hotel, E. Stanton, Esq., proprie¬ 
tor, with all the requisites of a first class inn, and a fine liv¬ 
ery for the charming drives hereabout. The house is located 
in the immediate vicinity of the landing, with facilities for 
boating and all desirable rural pleasures. 


58 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


THE GLENDEN HOUSE, 

J. L. Peavey, proprietor, is attractive in its exterior and 
style, new, airy and pleasant, on the shore of the Lake near 
the station of the Eastern Railway—a desirable place for 
recreation or rest. Livery stables connected, and boats may 
be had for Lake excursions. Billiard rooms—house lighted 
throughout with gas—electric bell arrangement, and lively 
and efficient management. 

THE BELVUE HOUSE, 

Daniel Horn, proprietor. The grounds are beautifully lo¬ 
cated in the most attractive spot on the shore of the Lake, a 
few rods distant from the landing and railroad station. The 
proprietor is well known, and second to none in his endeav¬ 
ors to please and entertain his guests. Connected with the 
house are boarding and livery stable, laundry, and bathing, 
and a large supply of boats for rowing and sa iling, at moder¬ 
ate charges. The added pleasure of yatching can be enjoyed 
by the patrons of this house the coming summer : a fine new 
yacht having been launched the present season. 

The sail by boat to the southern portion of the Lake leads 
you into the winding and hill shadowed inlet of 

ALTON BAY, 

and brings you to the village of the same name at the foot of 
Merry-meeting Bay, at the lower end of the Lake. This is 
the point of railroad communication with Boston and the East, 
via the Dover and Winnipisaukee and Boston and Maine 
railroads. Connecting with trains over these roads, the new, 
staunch and commodious steamer, “ Mount Washington,” 
Capt. Wiggin, plies to Wolfeborough and Centre Harbor, 
through the entire length of the Lake proper. This place 
has become noted for the immense gatherings of Adventists 
and Spiritualists of New England in yearly camp-meetings, 
which are attended by thousands, and for whose accommoda¬ 
tion extra trains and boat trips are run. Drives from this 
point to Mount Belknap, ten miles, to Sharpe’s Hill, and fish- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


59 


ing excursions to Lougee Pond, six miles, will amply reward 
the taking. The outlook from the summit of Mount Major 
and Prospect Hill commands fine views. This point was a 
favorite resort of the Indians, and camping-place for the pi¬ 
oneer soldiery during the French and Indian wars. 


CHAPTER IV. 


NORTHWARD FROM THE LAKE. 


But while we have digressed and become oblivious to all else 
in the quiet loveliness of the Lake, the larger part of the 
company have kept steadily onward by rail, along the west¬ 
ern shore of Northwest Cove, in sight of its cool, sparkling 
waters, through 

MEREDITH VILLAGE. 

This fine village has become a place of resort for those 
seeking a quiet and attractive summer retreat. 



The Elm House, 

G. M. Burleiegh, proprietor, is a good hotel, and the village 








NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


61 


a place-desirable for quiet residence. A fine forest lies in the 
immediate vicinity to the rear of the house. The location 
is elevated, commanding extensive views. There are thirty 
large and airy rooms; pure breezes from the lake and hills; 
good stables connected, and every thing new and comfortable. 

The Railroad now skirts the shores of Lake Wukawan, 
and brings you to the thriving village at 
ASHLAND STATION, 

important for the extensive production of paper, leather and 
straw-board, woolen goods and hosiery. This village is in 
the old town of Holderness, which was settled by its founders 
with high hopes of making it one of the important towns of 
the colony. 

The next station, after passing Bridgewater, is in the fair 
valley of the Pemigewasset (place of crooked pines)—the 
charming village of 

PLYMOUTH, 

fifty-one miles from Concord, and one hundred and twenty- 
four from Boston. This is the dining station for the morning 
trains from Boston, and themight station for the later trains, 
which continue north from this point in the morning. You 
step from the train directly upon the threshold of the famed 
Pemigewasset house, 

in the lower stories of which are the rooms of the passenger 
station. C. M. Morse, Esq. is the gentlemanly manager. 
Ascending the broad staircase, if it be in the season of pleas¬ 
ure travel, you will be saluted with music from a fine quad¬ 
rille band; and, entering one of the finest dining halls in 
New England, you find that plenty reigns at this hospitable 
board. Scrupulous neatness, excellent cookery, and quiet, 
lady-like attendance, the purest of water and the freshest of 
viands are the features of this hotel. 

This favorite house was erected in 1863, and is one of the 
best, in design and management, in the State. The building 
has a frontage of 230 feet, is four stories in height, with a wide 
projecting wing. There are 150 sleeping-rooms, large, airy, 
and well furnished with bathing facilities. Suites of rooms 



i 


Pemigewasset House. 











































































































































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


63 


can be had for families. The parlor is spacious, with elegant 
furnishing, and a fine frontage to the south. The building is 
crowned with an observatory, from which you have a wide 
outlook over the surrounding country. Good teams may be 
had at the first class livery stable near at hand, with skillful 
drivers familiar with surrounding scenery. The public 
rooms and passage-ways are lighted with gas. 

Pleasant drives, in the vicinity of Plymouth, are numerous 
to points of interest within reasonable distance, viz. around 
Smith’s bridge, 6 miles; to Livermore Falls, 2 miles; Plym¬ 
outh Mountain, 10 miles; Loon Pond, 5 miles; Squam Lake, 
6 miles; Centre Harbor, 12 miles. 

Prospect Hill, or Mount Prospect, in Holderness, should be 
visited by all who tarry at this place. The distance is about 
four miles from the Hotel—the ascent (not difficult,) the car¬ 
riage-way leading nearly to the summit—and the view 
from the summit (2,968 feet elevation) takes in the wide 
reaches of valley, lake, stream and mountain, with the vil¬ 
lages, farms and intervales that sleep in the fair valley of the 
Pemigewasset and Baker’s River; while, far to the north, the 
great ranges of the White and Franconia Mountains thrust 
their ragged peaks and swelling masses upon the horizon; 
the views of Mount Lafayette and Cannon Mountain are par¬ 
ticularly grand from this summit, and Chucorua, Gunstock, 
Belknap Mountains, Monadnock and Kearsage greet the vis¬ 
ion as the eye sweeps the circuit from the east to the west, 
and to the northwest Moosehillock swells nobly into view; 
Wukawan, Squam and Winnipesaukee Lakes lie in their qui¬ 
et and silvery beauty in the unrivalled- landscape, which in¬ 
cludes some portion of nearly every county in the State. 

To make this trip you will necessarily be absent from the 
hotel only about four hours. The road is safe and firm, af¬ 
fording a continual change of view as the ascent is made. 

Livermore Falls, on the Pemigewasset River about two 
miles northerly from the village, will not fail to prove an ob¬ 
ject of interest. The view is from the bridge some sixty feet 
above the fall: there are indications of volcanic disturbances 
in the rocky bed, For a limited view, if you have not time 


64 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


or inclination for a more extensive one, that from Walker’s 
Hill, or South Mountain is pleasing to those unfamiliar with 
grander prospects. 

If a day or-two is spent in Plymouth at this favorite Hotel, 
it is quite likely on your return, the coming year, your stay 
will be one of weeks. There is wholesome stimulus in the 
mountain air, and purity in the waters, activity and bustle at 
the Hotel and railway station, (three trains each day, to and 
from Boston,) from which a step, almost, will take you to 
undisturbed quiet. 

Before leaving Plymouth you will pay a visit to the small 
four-roofed building, now used as a wheelwright shop, in 
which Daniel Webster made his debut as a practising attor¬ 
ney. The old building is preserved in its ancient condition, 
and is looked upon with great interest by strangers and ad¬ 
mirers of the great statesman. 

The popular boarding-house near the station, of which 


























NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


65 


W. G. Hull is proprietor, is a cheerful and convenient home 
for those who seek quiet for a time. It is finely located upon 
the hill-side. 

PEMIGEW ASSET VALLEY STAGE ROUTE. 

The route from Plymouth to the Profile and Flume Houses and the Franconia 
Hills, 25 miles to the Flume House and 30 miles to the Profile Houses, through 
the Pemlgewasset valley is acknowledged to be one of the finest rides In the 
whole mountain district. The way leads up this fair valley through the towns 
of Campton, Thornton, Woodstock, and Lincoln. The Campton intervales, 
through which the river winds and turns as if reluctantly leaving the peaceful 
retreat—the graceful sweeps of the great elms, the rich beauty of the views, 
which open with every mile of progress, have made this mountain town the 
favorite resort of artists seeking the picturesque in landscape, and perfection in 
shade and outline. 

Ou the way the road is somewhat rugged, but the fine views, the gradual 
swelling and towering up of the great hills as you approach their base, aud the 
lessening of the streams as you near their source, the entrance into the immedi¬ 
ate presence of the solemn aDd majestic mountains in the evening twilight, the 
wonders of Franconia Notch, aud the comforts provided at the end will all linger 
in memory long after the journey has become a thing of the past, and the land¬ 
scapes 

M Plaited with valleys, and embossed with hills, 

Enchased with silver streams, and fringed with woods,” 

if seen in favorable lights, will be living picturos fading only with memory. Of 
the attractions and healthfulness of Campton and the towns beyond lying In this 
picturesque valley, among the great mountains and near' to the wonders of 
Franconia, too much cannot be said in praise. A glance at tho list of boarding¬ 
houses at tho close of this book, will show tho demand for accommodations along 
this charming route. The number of temporary residents in those quiet homes, 
each season, is constantly increasing, and the time of thoir sojourn lengthens 
every yoar. The charms of this valley are appreciated by Artists and lovers of 
the picturesque who resort here every year to transcribe with pencil or brush the 
beauty of landscapes so far as art may imitate natnre. Tho valleys lie in lovely 
ropode with the mountain land encircling them about. 

But we have digressed; and, led away by the charms of 
the Lake, and the fine stage-route, have partially forgotten 
the railway line: but many will not be tempted, even by the 
charms of the sail upon the Lake, but will continue by rail¬ 
way northward from Plymouth, following for twenty miles 
the valley of Baker’s River to the Connecticut. Passing 
Quincy’s station, Rumney, West Rumney and Wentworth 


66 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Station, Rattlesnake Mountain, Carr’s Mountain and other 
elevations of considerable boldness are seen before reaching 
Wentworth. 

WARREN. 

Moosilauk Mountain, distant some five miles to the base, 
is visited by all admirers of mountain scenery. The ascent 
is by a new turnpike recently opened to the summit, some 
four miles. There are good hotel accommodations at the 
summit for those who remain. 

From this isolated crest (4,636 feet altitude,) high above all 
surrounding peaks, is one of the grandest and most extensive 
views in New England: the eye falls directly upon the White 
and Franconia mountain ranges. Eastward the great Cen¬ 
tral dome of Washington, flanked by the noble ranges of the 
mighty hills; the scarred sides of Lafayette, the walls of the 
Notch and the Remigewasset Mountains. Carrigan and Pe- 
quaket are prominent peaks, the Uncanoonucks, Monad- 
nocks and Kearsarge bound the vision as you sweep around 
from south to west. The vast extent of view from this high 
crest includes nearly all of eastern and southern New Hamp¬ 
shire, the mountains in the direction of North Conway and 
glimpses of distant Maine, while, far awaj r to the northwest, 
the view extends into the Canadas. The first experience of 
wintering upon mountain summits in this latitude was on 
this summit in 1869, by Prof. Huntington and others. The 
Moosilauk House is a well-kept Hotel with an extensive liv¬ 
ery for the accommodation of visitors. 

From Warren the course of the railroad is northward, 
passing “ Owl’s Head” lying off to the right, and the villages 
of Haverhill and North Haverhill upon the left. The elevat¬ 
ed line of the road at this place overlooks the wide valley 
and the great bend or “ Ox-bow” in the Connecticut, with 
the pleasant villages on either side of the river, including the 
fine towns of Bradford and Newbury on the Vermont side, 
with mountains in the back-ground. The express train in 
the pleasure season does not cross to Wells River, but sweeps 
to the right by the “cut-off,” leaving the thriving and popu- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


67 


Ions village of Woodsville, a railroad town of recent but vig¬ 
orous growth, to the left. 

The mail train, following the express, stops at all stations, 
and all trains, excepting fast through express, connect at 
Wells River, forming junction with the Passumpsic River 
Railroad for Lakes Willoughby and Memphremagog. The 
Wells River and Montpelier Railroad, now completed, takes 
passengers from this point to Montpelier, Mounts Mansfield 
and Camel’s Hump, Burlington (where boat or cars may be 
taken for Saratoga), Lake Champlain, Lake George, or for 
St. Albans and Ogdensburg. 

NOTHWARD TO LITTLETON. 

Re-crossing the Connecticut by the same bridge and back 
through Woodsville, the line of road from this point—the 
White Mountain Division—passes along the valley of the 
Wild Ammonusuc River, which, from its sources on the 
slopes of the great mountains, abounds in rapids and falls, 
and is the most variable and wild of the New England 
streams, descending five thousand feet from its source to its 
union with the Connecticut. 

Passing through Bath, a sleepy village, and Lisbon —a pret¬ 
ty and enterprising town, the people of which are determined 
to enrich themselves and the country, either by developing 
their gold mines, or disseminating their patent fertilizers, and 
North Lisbon, you reach the important town of 

LITTLETON. 

This place is reached by the morning express train from 
Boston, at 3.30 p. m. It is 113 miles from Concord, and 187 
from Boston, and is one of the most important of the moun¬ 
tain railway stations, nearest to the Profile House (distant 11 
miles). Rough and manufactured lumber, agricultural im¬ 
plements, starch and woolen goods are here made, with many 
other productions. There is a bank of discount and savings 
bank, good hotel and boarding accommodations, a live, en¬ 
terprising people, quiet and seclusion for those who choose 
it, with near railroad facilities. An easy day’s ride will carry 


68 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


one to any of the points of interest in the mountains, and re¬ 
turn. Extensive views of the mountains can be had from 
the elevations in the immediate vicinity. 

Thayer’s Hotel is a well managed house which has been 
long kept by the present proprietor. The coach will be found 
waiting with others at the depot. Superior boarding accom¬ 
modations at the Oak Hill and other boarding houses. 

During your stay at this place, a visit should be made to 
the photographic rooms of the Kilburn Brothers. These ar¬ 
tists have the finest collection of stereoscopic views of moun¬ 
tain scenery and picturesque localities to be found in New 
England. They are not excelled as artists, nor equalled in 
their speciality of view-taking in the open air, being them¬ 
selves enthusiastic mountaineers. Few visitors leave the 
mountains without a collection of their fine views of notable 
localities and scenes, as souvenirs of their journey. 

Stages leave for the Franconia Hills immediately on ar¬ 
rival of the trains, and, if you withstand the temptation to 
tarry here for a time, or for the night, you can proceed direct¬ 
ly on your way to the Profile House. 

You should by no means neglect to take the drive 

FROM LITTLETON TO FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE 
MOUNTAINS, 

a stage route of eleven miles, by a good road over hHls and 
through valleys, passing through the long, straggling and pic¬ 
turesque village of Franconia (the reputed cold spot of the 
country in winter). The views of Mts. Lafayette and Can¬ 
non from Franconia village are very fine. The approach to 
the Notch by this route, in the sombre stillness of the fading 
day, when the shadows ascend slowly to the mountain tops, 
gilding their summits with golden splendor, and the bare and 
grim outlines of the range are brought out in bold relief, is a 
scene to be remembered. 

Sometime before reaching the Profile House you pass the 
farm belonging to the hotel, with the tasty and lavish display 
of flowers about the door and lawn, and beautiful fresh sup¬ 
plies, telling of substantial provision for their numerous 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


69 


guests; the diverging road to Bald Mountain is also passed. 
Echo Lake lies just to the left of the roadway; Eagle Cliff 
towers into view just beyond, and, as you near the hotel, you 
look to the right far up on the rocky summit of Mount Can¬ 
non where the granite mass which gives name to this sum¬ 
mit stands, an almost perfect imitation of a mounted gun of 
heavy calibre. 

THE PROFILE HOUSE 

is now reached—from its location, surroundings, and man¬ 
agement, one of the most popular resorts in the whole moun¬ 
tain region. Echo Lake, Eagle Cliff, the Great Stone Face, 
and Profile Lake are all in the immediate vicinity, and, with 
the general wildness of the pass itself, make up a scene un¬ 
equalled, in many of its features, elsewhere in the world. The 
smaller but well kept Flume House, five miles below, has the 
same management and is in near vicinity of the Flume, The 
Pool, Georgianna Falls and other wonders. The Basin is 
passed on the journey through the pass, being by the road¬ 
side. Of these natural wonders and the ascent of summits 
from these points see full description in chapter on “ Franco¬ 
nia Notch.” 

Again returning to the railway and going 

NORTHWARD FROM LITTLETON 

you may pass directly on and unite with the Grand Trunk 
Railway, at Northumberland Junction, for Colebrook, Dix- 
ville Notch, Island Pond or the Canadas, or tarry as you may 
choose at either Whitefield, Dalton, Lancaster or Guildhall, 
successive stations upon this line,hereafter noticed in detail; 
but, if your destination is Bethlehem, the Twin Mountain or 
Fabyan Houses, Mount Washington summit or the Crawford 
House (at the Notch) you will take the Mt. Washington 
Branch Railroad, diverging from the main line above Little¬ 
ton at the “ Wing Station,” and pass directly on to these 
points. 

BETHLEHEM, 

on this branch, has become the great mountain health resort 
of New England in the summer months. It is the highest 


70 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


open table land (1,500 ft. elevation) available for residences, 
in the Eastern States; and the pure air, wide prospect, 
picturesque scenes and surroundings, attract temporary res- 
dents from all parts of the country. The “ street ” is a long 
line of scattered houses at some distance from the railway 
station, and from this grand plateau and favorable distance 
the outlook upon the mountains is grand and impressive. 
Many invalids are sent to this place by advice of physicians, 
and in its pure and dry atmosphere, find that relief which 
those who seek mild but enervating climates fail to find. 

The trips and drives, of uncommon charm, to be had from 
this village are sufficiently numerous to give great variety 
and grandeur of scenery. Among them are the following: 
to summit of Mt. Agassiz, 2 miles; Crafts’ Ledge, If miles; 
round the Heater, 5 miles; Kimball Hill, 6 miles; Mont¬ 
gomery Pond, 6 miles; White Mountain Notch, 18 miles: 
Waumbeck House, Jefferson Hill, 18 miles; The Flume, 16 
miles; Mount Washington R. R. station, 19 miles. Good 
teams are to be had at fair prices. 

























NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


71 


Mount Agassiz House, C. E. Bunker, Proprietor, is 
a pleasant house for the tourist, sportsman or invalid, also 
the small new house of W. G. Bunker will be found attractive, 
with others of equal merit. See list of Boarding Houses in 
appendix. The Prospect House, kept by Geo W. Phillips^ 
accommodates a hundred guests and will be found a de¬ 
sirable home for temporary or permanent residents, located 
in the forest, off the roadway, giving all the retirement which 
can be desired. Maple Wood Cottage, attractive and pleas¬ 
ant, under the management of I. E. Abbott. J. K. Barrett 
will open a new house, with new furniture, in one of the 
most sightly and attractive locations. Also, Elisha Sweet 
will open a new house in June. The house will be centrally 
located, with new and complete outfit. 

The Sinclair House, J. A. Durgin, Proprietor, is a 
hotel of good repute, large, commodious and complete in its 
provision for the comfort of patrons. 

From Bethlehem the Wing Railway passes on to Twin 
Mountain House (the former terminus,) a large and commod¬ 
ious hotel near the Twin Mountains in Carrol township and 
further on to the present terminus at the 



Fabyan House. 
















72 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 

At this terminal station, the fine, commodious and every¬ 
way first class Fabyan House affords all needed or desirable 
comforts and luxuries to its patrons. It is located at the 
junction of the Notch Road and the Mountain Turnpike, about 
six miles from the station of the Mount Washington Rail¬ 
way, known as Ammonoosuc Station, at foot of Mt. Washing¬ 
ton. Only five miles of staging from this point to the Craw¬ 
ford House, at the Gates of the Notch. 

The Giant’s Grave, formerly a place of note from its pecu¬ 
liarity, and for tho fine view therefrom, fell within the 
grounds of this fine hotel and has been sacrilegiously leveled. 
Lindsey & French are the efficient managers. Fabyan House 
line of Concord coaches runs in connection with all trains on 
the mountain railway, also to connect with trains on Port¬ 
land and Ogdensburg R. R., at Hart’s Location near the old 
Crawford House, taking passengers through the White Moun¬ 
tain Notch. The accommodations at this Hotel are for 450 
guests. The outlook from its piazzas is directly upon the 
elope of Mount Washington, and the ascending and descend¬ 
ing trains over the mountain railway. Fine Band music 
serves to drive away monotony and all the essentials of a 
pleasure resort are here found. (See further notico in fol¬ 
lowing pages.) 

Of the Mountain Railway, White Mountain Notch, and 
other attractions of this region you will be fully informed in 
the succeeding chapter specially treating of each. 

Once again returning from our digression, and resuming 
travel by the regular railway route, we reach 

WHITEFIELD. 

This is tho important lumber depot of this road. Those 
genuine Yankee lumbermen, the Brown Brothers and their 
associates, have here extensive mills and facilities for the 
manufacture of lumber on a large scale and with dispatch, 
including a forest railway of several miles in length, with 
ample rolling stock, extending to their great lumber tracts 
around Pondicherry. These mills are well worth a visit, 
being among the most complete in the State, and should the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


73 


genial “ Doctor,’ 1 whose brains and cash make him the im¬ 
portant “ Co.” of the firm, be present, yon will be sure of a 
welcome, and, though he can be as reticent as the “ Old Man 
of the Mountain” it is probable you will be entertained with 
pleasant conversation valuable in its medical advice, if you 
are in need of such, in spiritual truths, if yours is a receptive 
mind, and in hilarious mirth, if you are inclined to be merry: 
success to him and his enterprising associates in their exten¬ 
sive operations. They also have important mills three miles 
from Wentworth Station, on the railroad below, and will 
furnish all kinds of lumber, from the masts of monster mer¬ 
chant men to the smallest merchandise known to the trade. 

Kimball hill, a mile and a half from the village, is a favor¬ 
ite point for extensive views, and here the curious have found 
what appears to be moccasin tracks in the solid granite. 
This town is becoming a favorite place of resort for summer 
boarders. The distance to the Fabyan House is 17 miles; to 
the Waumbeck House, 8 miles; to the White Mountain 
Notch, and Franconia Notch, 17 miles respectively. At the 
W ititefield House, C. Henry Abbott, Proprietor, good 
teams may be had, or good faro if you tarry at this quiet vil¬ 
lage ; also several first class boarding houses are located in 
this town, and the scenery is not surpassed at any point 
about the mountains. 


DALTON 

is the next station, where many leave for the Sumner House, 
finely located on the banks of the Connecticut, one mile dis¬ 
tant, a place of considerable resort. 

Lunenburg, Vt., is one mile from So. Lancaster Station. 
Regular conveyance to the commodious hotel and excellent 
boarding houses in this mountain village, overlooking the 
Connecticut valley, from the high and healthy plateau. 

LANCASTER 

is distant from Concord 135 miles, from Boston 208 miles— 
and is the most important town of Coos County, located 


74 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


among the finest scenes outlying the mountains, it is the des¬ 
tination of many of our number. The intervales of the Con¬ 
necticut, at this point, are not surpassed by any upon its whole 
course, while rare views are had of the distant Franconia 
Mountains, the great White Mountain range, the Percy Peaks 
and Pilot Range, and the Lunenburg Hills in Vermont. Here 
the tourist in high health, who has the secret learned 

“ To mix his blood with sunshine, and to take 
The winds into his pulses,” 

can have unequalled facility for sporting and the enjoyment 
of savage vigor. It is also a place of resort for invalids, es¬ 
pecially for those troubled with asthmatic and lung difficulties 
and “ hay fever ”; for such, relief is said to come with cer¬ 
tainty in the genial air of the village; certainly, few lovelier 
spots could be chosen in which to recuperate wasted energies 
and correct the injurious effects of exposure to enervating 
influences of crowded cities or injurious climate. The win¬ 
ter views from this point are spoken of with admiration by 
those whose artistic tastes are admitted to be above contra¬ 
diction, though the chilling fog-clouds from the mountains 
sometimes bring an arctic severity with their unwelcome de¬ 
scent in winter. 

Lancaster was chartered in 1763. “ All pine trees within 

said township fit for masting our Royal Navy to be carefully 
preserved for that use, and none to be cut or felled without 
special license.” The grant was to David Page and others, 
covering 23,000 acres. The original settlers were from Pe¬ 
tersham and Rutland, Mass.,and were a hardy and self-reliant 
race. There were no highways for several years after set¬ 
tlement, and the nearest mills were at Charlestown and 
Plymouth. Their frugal fare is thus described by a facile 
writer: 

“ Emmons Stockwell kept a huge mortar, which held about 
two bushels; into this they put their corn, beans and rye; 
then they pounded it with a great wooden pestle, as none but 
them could pound. With this they mixed potatoes, well 
baked and peeled, and the vegetables their tastes might se¬ 
lect; the whole was baked together into magnificent Thump. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


75 


Seasoned with good appetites, it was found a delicious dish 
by the early inhabitants of our glorious old town.” 

Harrassed by Indians, dispirited by failures, and cheered 
by no bright future, the settlement was at one time to be 
abandoned; but one dauntless spirit clung to the fair valley 
“for better or for worse,” and, by force of heroic example, 
saved the colony, and permanently founded this noble town, 
set in the loveliest of valleys, and circled by distant peaks 
and mountains. 

The tourist will travel far to find a lovelier village, sur¬ 
rounded with more of the varied and romantic in natural 
scenery, or of neatness and advantage in the accommodations 
for pleasant residence. The waters are pure in their fresh 
escape from the bosom of great hills; and the summer 
winds are cooled by contact with the bald summits of the 
mountains. 

A walk of about a mile on the Jefferson road will take those 
unable to visit the mountains, to a point giving a fine view of 
a portion of the White Mountain Range. 

The visitor at this place will find in the elegant and com¬ 
modious 



Lancaster House, 





















76 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


B. H. Corning, Manager, as fine a hotel as the mountain re¬ 
gion can boast. Fish, game and fruits, fresh from the sur¬ 
rounding region, commodious rooms, and liberal accommo¬ 
dations in every department, give assurance of personal 
comfort. Drives in the surrounding country and to noted 
points in the mountains from this point will reveal unsur¬ 
passed diversity and charm in landscape, while the railroad 
connections are such as to afford the greatest facility to trav¬ 
elers and buisness men. The sidewalks and crossings of the 
village streets are superior to those of many larger towns, 
adding greatly to the comfort and pleasure of citizens and 
visitors, 

This is the shire town of the highland county of Coos, and 
here centres much of the professional, mechanical and agri¬ 
cultural business of northern New Hampshire. Church¬ 
going people of every denomination can here select their 
favorite form of worship, including an Episcopal Parish re¬ 
cently organized. 

Trains connect with the Grand Trunk Railway, daily, for the 
Canadas, and the eastern approaches to the mountains at 
Gorham and the Glen, and by the Montreal road for the White 
and Franconia Mountains, the Mount Washington Railway, 
Lake Winnipesaukee, Boston, the lower cities and New York. 
Stage leaves Lancaster, on arrival of the train from Boston, 
about 5 o clock p. m. for the 

WAUMBEK HOUSE, JEFFERSOn HILLS, 
and the other desirable boarding houses at Jefferson, distant 
seven miles, and located at the foot of Starr King Mountain. 
Speaking of the view from these hills, Mr. King says: “They 
may, without exaggeration, be called the ultima tliule of 
grandeur, in an artistic pilgrimage among the New Hamp¬ 
shire mountains.” Here the mountains, marshalled in a vast 
arc of circling summits, present a wide sweep of landscape 
of a magnitude rarely met even in this land of bold and 
startling prospects. This favorite hotel, kept by Merrill and 
Plaisted, is supplied with the freshest of country products 
from the neighboring pastures and streams, and the accom¬ 
modations are such as must please those who give the agree- 


Jefferson Hills. 








































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































78 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


able landlords their patronage, while the view from its piaz¬ 
zas is a changing picture of majestic outline, bathed in sun¬ 
light and swept by moving shadows and changing scenes, 

“ Where, through a sapphire sea, the sun 
Sails like a golden galleon.” 

A foot-path leads to the summit of Starr King Mountain, and 
one of the finest summit views in the whole mountain range. 
A good livery stable accommodates guests. The outlook is 
upon the White, Franconia, Green, Cherry and Starr King 
mountains. 

GUILDHALL, VT., 

at Northumberland Falls, is one of the pleasantest of coun¬ 
try villages, located among beautiful scenery and command¬ 
ing extensive views of the Connecticut valley. The Essex 
House, -Hartshorn, proprietor, is a good hotel, attract¬ 

ive for families for a summer residence. The drives here¬ 
about are superb. The good boarding accommodations 
here found are liberally patronized. 

NORTHUMBERLAND JUNCTION. 

Unite here with the Grand Trunk Railway. A thriving 
settlement has sprung up at this point since it became im¬ 
portant as a railroad t#wn. The trains connect at this point 
with all trains over Grand Trunk to and from Lancaster. 

Without delay passengers may proceed in fine parlor cars, 
if desired, to the great Canadian cities over the line of the 

Grand Trunk Railway. 

The great improvements in progress on this line by change 
of gauge, renewal of rolling stock, and the substitution of 
steel rails, will greatly add to the comfort of patrons and ac¬ 
commodate the increasing travel to Canadian cities and 
places of attraction. Many tourists leave the cars of this line 
at North Stratford ; here you may find good quarters at 
the Willard House, and take stage from thence to Cole_ 
brook, where at the Parson’s House, E. F. Bailey, proprie¬ 
tor, conveyance and all needful help will be furnished for 



NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


79 


visiting the northern mountain pass; the stages connect with 
every express train on the Grand Trunk Railway. 

DIXVILLE NOTCH 

is the most northern of the great natural wonders that crowd 
the White Mountain region. It is a dreary, forbidding and 
desolate pass, between vast decaying ledges and pillars of 
rock, threading the narrow roadway, which is maintained 
with some difficulty at the expense of the State. 

It is fast becoming a place of resort from Colebroolv, and 
many pass on through the Notch to camp life, by the three lakes 
at the head waters of the Connecticut, and trouting by the 
wild waters of the Magalloway river. Within and about the 
Notch are many objects of interest. The Silver Cascade is a 
wild waterfall at the northern outlet of the Notch. Ladders 
descend the rocky bed leading to the best point for a full view, 
and seats are arranged for the convenience of visitors. The 
Flume is a waterway well worth inspection, the bare walls 
standing squarely upright as though hewn by the hand of an 
artisan. The pulpit is a bold buttress of stone, more like the 
elaborate pulpit of “ye olden times ” than the modern style. 
Here also is a veritable “ Old Man of the Mountain,” of di¬ 
minutive size when compared with the grand “ Profile ” of 
the Franconia range, but perfect in its resemblance to the fa¬ 
cial outline. ■ These and other points are indicated by sign¬ 
boards liberally scattered along the way by the owner of the 
lands. The ascent to table Rock (800 feet perpendicular 
height), the highest pinnacle, may now be easily made by 
rude steps cut to facilitate climbing. The view from this 
dizzy height is one to be sought and remembered. 


CHAPTER V. 


THE FRANCONIA RANGE, 

Ok Westerly Group op White Mountains. 


This western range of the White Mountains abounds in 
beautiful and enchanting objects of interest, and wild combi¬ 
nations of scenery, surpassing, perhaps, any other locality. 
Lafayette is the crowning peak, being 5,585 feet above sea 
level. The ascent is made from the Flume House. 

Franconia Notch is a pass with close and precipitous 
walls, of about five miles in extent, between Mount Lafay¬ 
ette and Mount Cannon. The valley is about half a mile in 
width, and is a huge receptacle of the curious, the wild, and 
the beautiful in mountain scenery. The bare walls of Can¬ 
non Mountain, on the right, as you ride through from the 
Profile House, are grand in their impressive barrenness and 
lofty height. 

THE GREAT STONE PORTRAIT, 

Is the crowning feature of the pass. The grim old “ King of 
the Hills,” ever looking out in unchanging majesty on his 
wild realm. This wonderful copy of the human features, 
colossal in proportions, yet faithful and clear in its lines, is the 
great natural attraction sought by strangers. The length of 
the face has been ascertained to be not less than eighty feet. 
It looks from the southern face of Cannon or Profile Moun¬ 
tain “ awful but benignant,” enchaining the interest of every 
beholder—the majestic feature of a weird region, of which 
the poet sings 

44 For hoary legends to your wilds belong, 

And yours are haunts where inspiration broods.” 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


81 


Echo Lake, The Basin, The Pool, The Flume, with its 
suspended boulder and cascades, and the ascent of Mount La¬ 
fayette are features of the Franconia Range fully described in 
succeeding pages, and seen by excursions from the Profile and 
Flume Houses. The facility with which this pass may be 
reached from Littleton or from Plymouth,by stage route up the 
valley, and the varied beauty and attractiveness of the range 
brings a yearly increasing tide of Pilgrims to enjoy the wealth 
of beauty here to be found. 

The Profile House, at the northern entrance to the Notch, 
and in near vicinity of Eagle Cliff, Echo Lake and the Profile, 
is the great resort of travelers and tourists, while the smaller 
but excellently kept and located Flume House, at the southern 
entrance and near the Flume, the Pool and other attractions, 
is a place of much resort. 

The Profile House, Franconia Notch, White 
Mountains, 

has accommodations for five hundred guests, on the most 
liberal and extensive scale. The ample grounds, command¬ 
ing wide and beautiful views, are crowded during the pleasure 
season with a happy company gathered from all parts of the 
land, who find here that cleanliness and attention, with that 
ample and substantial profusion of viands, which mountain 
air and exercise make, more than elsewhere, a necessity. 

The parlor and dining hall are spacious and elegant (about 
100 by 50 feet area), and are lighted with gas. The telegraph 
runs to this point, and the man of business may receive his 
mails with regularity,and send his commands along the wires, 
while he gathers strength in the mountain air, and marvels 
among the mysteries of the hills. Many improvements are 
yearly made. The furnishing is elegant and complete, and 
the location superior. 

Stages leave, twice each day, for Plymouth, via the Pemige- 
wasset valley, and for Littleton, connecting with express 
trains on the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad; also 
stages each day for Bethlehem, connecting there with rail 
for Twin Mountain and Fabyan Houses. Mount Washington 


82 


NORTHERN TREASURE TRAVEL. 


Railway and the Crawford House are reached by short coach 
line from either of these Houses. 



AROUND THE PROFILE HOUSE, 

in near vicinity, the attractions accessible to guests by short 
walks, or carriage or saddle trips,easily made,are more ninner- 







































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


83 


ous and of more wide and deserving notoriety than are to be 
found elsewhere fn a long seeking after the picturesque. 
Fronting the hotel is the precipitous crag, towering fifteen 
hundred feet above the road, known as 

EAGLE CLIFF, 

once the chosen homo of mountain eagles, hence the name. 
The cliff is seen to best advantage from Profile Lake, espe¬ 
cially through the fogs and mists that hang about it at times, 
or when gilded by the lights of morning or fading tints of 
evening. A short ascent up the side of Cannon Mountain 
gives a point of view from which all the boldness of the cliff 
will be seen standing out in impressive majesty. 

To the rear of the hotel, reached by footpath through tho 
woods, a small brook plunging in a succession of falls, down 
the rugged ledges of the hillside, gives you, if you are fortu¬ 
nate to see it after its volume has been swelled by rains, a 
most pleasing and attractive sight, a fitting introduction to 
greater wonders yet unseen. The pleasing picture spread 
before you of the quiet lake below, tho niountains, valleys 
and forests, which you here overlook, will amply repay you 
for the climbing. 

Beneath “ Eagle Cliff,” northward from the hotel on the 
Franconia road, locked within a circle of hills and embosom¬ 
ed in green forest, is the wonderful and widely famed little 
sheet of water known as. 

ECHO LAKE. 

Floating upon its silvery surface in the boat provided for 
visitors, you may wake resounding and multiplying echoes 
from the circling mountains. Your halloo comes back from 
many hills as though a mocking circle of sentinels caught up 
the sound in succession, lessening in volume and force until 
it takes its flight far away in the fastnesses of the ravines. 
The blast of a bugle or horn comes back in softened repeti¬ 
tion of musical echoes and re-echoes dying out in waves of 
sound among distant summits. Do not omit to visit this 
weird spot at the quiet morning or still evening hour, when 
all nature conspires to enhance its loveliness and heighten its 


84 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 



Echo Lake. 

charms, and the changes of color are no less wonderful than 
the reverberations of sound. Horns, bugles, a cannon and 
other instruments for waking echoes, pleasing and terrific, 
are here to be had for the use of visitors. 


CANNON MOUNTAIN 

is so called from a rock or combination of rocks near the 
summit resembling a huge cannon, seeming to command the 
passage of the Notch from its high position. It is also called 
Profile Mountain from the renowned “ Profile ” on its south¬ 
ern wall. The summit is about 2,000 feet above the road and 
3,500 feet above sea level, and its steep sides covered with a 
thick growth of deciduous trees, stand facing the slopes of 
Mount Lafayette and form the western side of the Notch. 














NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


85 


The ascent of this mountain, by footpath, is one of the 
pleasures of a visit to Franconia, though, possibly, there 
may be more pleasure in the outlook than in the climbing. 

The top is a surface of bald rock, not reached without vig¬ 
orous exertion. This height gained, you look upon that tow¬ 
ering cluster of peaks—the White Mountains proper—down 
thb broad valley of the Pemigewasset, and upon all the varied 
contrasts of mountain and meadow, lake and village, river 
and stream, that combine in the wide landscape seen from 
this high summit, 

The ascent of “ Bald Mountain ” is another less tiresome 
trip, made by carriages if you wish, nearly to the summit, 
but easily made by pedestrians. The view is wide in extent, 
looking down into the Notch and its wonders, nortlrward 
upon the distant broken line of hills, and “Lafayette ” swells 
high above you to the eastward, while the sweeping shadows 
or trailing vapors roll along the rugged slopes, and through 
the broad valleys, in a moving scene of beauty which will 
fade only with the failure of memory. The path to this sum¬ 
mit diverges from the Littleton road about a mile from the 
Profile House. 

THE PROFILE, 

or “ Old Man of the Mountain,” is best seen in the sombre 
lights of the coming evening. This bold combination of 
rocky masses, forming that wonderful imitation'of the out¬ 
lines of the human face, perhaps, more than any other natu¬ 
ral feature of the mountains, excites the curiosity of visitors. 
It is a bold combination of rocks forming the granite portrait 
only when viewed from the proper location. Change the point 
of view, for any considerable distance, and the features be¬ 
come a shapeless mass of rocks and crags. The rocks which 
form this wonderful outline are not in perpendicular line, 
but, appearing so, are combined perfectly in a sharp, angular 
and unmistakable imitation of the human face. 

The proper point of view is only about a quarter of a mile 
from the Profile House on the road leading down the Notch. 
The granite face stands out from the southern crest of Can¬ 
non Mountain in majestic repose, fifteen hundred feet above 


86 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


The Profile, 



the surface of Profile Lake, unmoved by the mad fury of 
tempests and storms or the golden touch of morning sunlight, 
looking out from its rocky throne, insensible to passion, pleas¬ 
ure or pain, with the sharp and stony lines of the immobile 
face set in unchangeable grandeur, solemn and awe-inspiring 
with its ages of exposure to the storms and tempests, the ad¬ 
miration of thousands who look upon it with bated breath. 
When viewed in the coming twilight, there is no need of call¬ 
ing on the imagination to conjure out of the rocky outlines 
the “ Great Stone Face.” 


“ Full human profile, nose and chin distinct, 

Mouth muttering rhythms of silence up the sky, 

And fed at evening with the blood of suns.” 

Under the full glare of the midday sun it is seen to least ad- 












NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


87 



vantage, but, when “shadowed with clouds and the glorified 
vapor of the mountains clustering about it,” all the grandeur 
of the bold outlines are apparent. Viewed from any other 
point than the locality named, it is an unmeaning mass of 
jagged rocks—a chaotic ruin. The fine imagination of Haw¬ 
thorne likens it to “ a mighty angel sitting among the hills, 
and enrobing himself in a cloud-vesture of gold and purple.” 

It is a weird spot to spend the evening hour by the shores 
of Profile Lake under the benignant face set in granite out¬ 
lines among slopes down which highland rivulets plunge over 
tilted walls of rock, the clustering hills where echoes rever¬ 
berate, and “ clouds trail their soft shadows in the gathering 
mist.” 


1'KOEIEE LAKE. 











88 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


At the base of Cannon Mountain, directly beneath the 
over-hanging portrait of the “ Old Man,” is a beautiful sheet 
of water, a quarter of a mile long by one-eighth of a mile 
wide, sleeping in the green forests which enclose it and hang 
in shadow in its pure depths. The quiet beauty of the scene 
will excite the admiration of the coldest nature. Fanciful 
names have been bestowed upon it, such as the “ Old Man’s 
Mirror” and “Old Man’s Washbowl;” but however named, 
or if nameless, it is one of the gems in the gallery of moun¬ 
tain pictures seen in Franconia. It is the home of that lover 
of cool mountain streams and lakes, the beautiful trout, for 
which you must angle with skill, for no careless hand secures 
this wary beauty. You must also visit the Trout House, 
just below, where these shy beauties are seen by hundreds. 

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT LAFAYETTE. 

The climbing of this, the highest peak of the Franconia 
range, (height 5,100 feet,) is considered second only in inter¬ 
est to the ascent of Mount Washington. A half day’s absence 
from the hotel is necessary for the trip, and horses with the 
necessary conveniences for the ascent are kept at the base, 
with competent guides for the accommodation of tourists. 

A new bridle path has been built for the lower half of the 
ascent, winding up the ravine just south of Eagle Cliff, leav¬ 
ing the highway almost opposite the hotel, shortening the 
distance some three miles. 

A shelter has been provided upon the summit for the pro¬ 
tection of visitors, and the prospect is one of the widest 
which invites the eye in the whole mountain region; looking 
away over the great intervening reach of hills and valleys to 
distant Katahdin oh the very eastern outpost of the army of 
hills; upon the great cluster of mountain monarchs of which 
Wasliington is the peerless centre; upon the northern peaks 
away beyond Lancaster; across the Connecticut Valley upon 
the hills of Vermont and the swelling crests of the Green 
Mountains, the valley of the Connecticut and the villages on 
either side, the wild “ Ammonusuc,” and the villages of Lit¬ 
tleton and Bethlehem. The southern view is down the fair 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


89 


valley of the Pemigewasset, while great Moosilauk swells 
nobly into view and Monadnoek and Kearsarge bound the 
vision. 

DOWN THE NOTCH. 

As you ride down the Notch, from the Profile House, the 
bare rocky wall of Cannon, (or Profile,) Mountain is to the 
right with a forest covered base. At the proper point the huge 
rocks combine in the “ Great Stone Face,” and dissolve again 
in ruin. The scene on either hand is bold,startling and novel. 
Among attractions most noted are 

walker’s falls. 

These falls are a half mile from the roadway down the 
Notch. The path diverges from the main way, some three 
miles below the Profilellouse. Following a small brook, which 
here crosses the road from the west, a succession of pictur¬ 
esque waterfalls are reached, leaping over the rocky shelves 
or sliding over the mountain slopes which form the bed of 
the little torrent broken into foam by impeding masses of 
rock. A half day’s climbing along the course of this brook 
will afford you a succession of pleasant surprises as you fol¬ 
low its worn channel in the rock, its gliding course over the 
water-worn granite, its successive leaps over the ledges, 
mingling its waters with those of the fair Pemigewasset, 
which soon pours its limpid flood over the granite rim of the 

BASIN, 

some three and one-half miles south of the Profile House. 
This granite reservoir is a worn and curious cavity in the 
solid rocks, close by the roadway; evidently made by the 
whirling of rocks in the eddying currents; the waters sweep 
the circle several times in swift rotation before making their 
exit at the opposite side. The circular walls are very smooth 
and regular, the water falling within it in a pretty cascade 
over the brim and making its exit by a channel worn into a 
fancied resemblance to the human leg, hence the outlet is 
sometimes known as the “Old Man’s Leg.” 

The diameter of the Basin is about forty feet, the depth to 


90 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


the bottom twenty-eight feet, with a usual depth of twelve 
feet of water. 

A small stream among the hills to the left of the Basin, 
flows over the granite ledges on the mountain slope in pic¬ 
turesque and musical descent forming a succession of the 
most lovely cascades which may be followed up with pleas¬ 
ure to the upper fall where the stream plunges in a leap of 
some twenty-five feet. 

THE FLUME HOUSE. 

This house is a small and well kept hotel very pleasantly 
located, facing Mount Liberty, in the vicinity of the Flume, 
the Basin, the Pool, and other natural objects of interest, 
affording from its very doors a view of the three great peaks 
of this range, Lafayette, Liberty and Pleasant, their harsh 
outlines somewhat softened by the distance, and of the wide 
valley of the Pemigewasset, in all its picturesque and quiet 
beauty. 

This house is kept by the proprietors of the Profile House, 
and visitors will find it a pleasant spot in which to spend 
their season of leisure, be it short or protracted. 

THE CASCADES • 

are below the Flume and drop in gradual descent of several 
hundred feet in musical silver lines and gliding sheets of pure 
emerald waters over the wide, smooth, granite inclining 
plane, fretted more and more, as you ascend to the Flume by 
the help of rustic bridges, with many charming basins and 
pools of transparent water. You reach these wonders from 
the road by a pleasant path through the forests, a portion of 
which is graded as a carriage road. 

THE FLUME. 

This central wonder of this part of the valley is a narrow, 
rocky ravine or worn channel, with perpendicular walls on 
either side of 50 to 60 feet in height an l some 20 feet apart. 
Within these regular and moss-covered rocks, evidently rent 
asunder by some throe of nature, a sm ill stream threads its 
way, in lovely confusion and perplexing disturbance along 
the broken bed of huge rocks which, from time to time, have 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


91 



The Flume. 

fallen from the walls. The visitor can ascend through this 
shadowed and wonderful glen which extends some 800 feet 
between walls, apparently the work of Titans in the olden 
time; a rude pathway of planks and needful artificial helps 
protecting him from all disagreeable contact with the.mur¬ 
muring stream bubbling and complaining among the rocks 
below, and resting often in lovely pools and fissures. 

At one point the grand fissure contracts to a span of twelve 
feet and holds suspended, apparently with slightest security, 
“ The Great Stone Wedge ”—an enormous egg-shaped bould¬ 
er of many tons weight, an object of active speculation and 
lively curiosity, causing an involuntary tremor as you pass 
beneath. The road to the “ Flume ” diverges from the 
turnpike directly in front of the Flume House. In good 














92 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


weather a visit to this wonder before breakfast is a grand ex 
perience and a good appetizer. 

THE POOL. 

After viewing the wonders of the Flume you take the path 
leading through the forest; leaving the road near the hotel 
stables and following it for half a mile you reach the Pool, a 
vast natural well, somewhat regular in form and outline, ex¬ 
cavated or worn in the solid granite bed, a sort of immense 
basin repeated on a grand scale. A small stream flows over 
the brim from the north, and through a narrow fissure oppo¬ 
site, the amber waters-find exit. 

The span of the rim of this gloomy natural reservoir is 
about 150 feet, the depth is about 190 feet, with 40 feet of 
water in its sullen depths. The beauty of the cascades, the 
Basin and the Flume does not pertain to the Pool, but as a 
curiosity not to be omitted in the tour of mountain wonders, 
it will amply repay your visit. A clumsy boat sails upon the 
gloomy and circumscribed circuit of its waters. Steps lead 
down within the walls and quite likely you will spend some 
time within this solemn temple where, if alone, and to dream¬ 
ing inclined, you may muse for hours ere you come back to 
the brightness of the world again; what a place for Haw¬ 
thorne to weave the fine threads of his fancy into a weird 
and wondrous tale. 

HARVARD OR GEORGI ANN A FALLS. 

Diverging from the Lincoln turnpike, some two miles be¬ 
low the Flume Hotel, you shortly reach a brook leaping down 
the hillside, west of the roadway, in cascades which are 
among the very finest of the valley. 

The little stream at one point takes a great leap of eighty 
feet over the ledge to bound off in another of nearly equal 
fall, flashing a line of silver sheen through the arching fringe 
of shrubbery that serves to heighten its beauty. Down a 
rugged, broken descent of three-fourths of a mile the waters 
leap to meet the quiet river below. Looking upwards along 
the bed of the stream as you ascend, the sight is one of rare 
beauty; each stage of elevation developes new attractions in 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


93 


the fall itself and the views of the valley below, caught in 
broken vistas between the forest trees; while from the sum¬ 
mit of the ridge you have an outlook not to be forgotten in 
memories of your journey among the hills. Miniature basins 
of the purest water, here and there along its course, excite 
the admiration of the observing. 

These latter wonders are in the romantic town of Lincoln, 
the first named, around the Profile House, are in Franconia. 
The stage route from the Profile passes down the Pemige- 
wasset Yalley, previously described in the approach by this 
route from Plymouth. 

MOUNT PEMIGEWASSET, 

in the rear of the Flume House, may be ascended with no 
great difficulty by visitors of either sex, and the view, espe¬ 
cially at sunset, is one of the rare delights of the journey, 
the setting sun bathing the grand outlines of the wide land¬ 
scape in a blaze of glory and splendor and gilding the gorges 
and peaks with subdued and waving lights. 

Only those whose limited time and means prevent further 
progress will leave the Franconia region without pushing on 
to the still more grand and impressive, though not more 
beautiful or varied scenery around Mount Washington and 
the White Mountain Notch described in the next chapter, 


CHAPTER VI. 


THE WHITE MOUNTAIN RANGE. 


A modern writer has, in poetic and expressive language, 
described the mountains as “ outbursts of the globe’s pas¬ 
sion ”—“ witnesses of a pent up fury ”—“ upspringing wedges 
of rock, flinging the garment of soil away, tilting and separa¬ 
ting the strata through which they break, and standing bare 
for the scrutiny of science.” 

Terrible must have been the throes of nature which up- 
heaved the masses of the granite hills—known in common 
language as the White Mountains — given as a general 
name for the whole mountain region of northern New Hamp¬ 
shire, but properly belonging to the eastern and more exten¬ 
sive range, of which Mount Washington (6,285 feet in height) 
is the crowning glory. They are called White from the fact 
that, during the larger part of the year the snow remains 
upon the towering summits, yielding only to the intense heat 
of mid-summer, and are the highest peaks east of the Missis¬ 
sippi, excepting the high summits of the Black Mountains in 
North Carolina. 

The “ White Mountain Notch ” is the frowning pass pecu¬ 
liar to this range, also the pass known as Pinkham Notch, and, 
away to the north, Dixville Notch. The range covers some 
forty miles square of country, and lies in the counties of Coos 
and Grafton. 

The principal summits are Mount Webster, (4,000 feet 
elevation); Mount Jackson, (4,000 feet); Mount Clinton, 
(4,200 feet); Mount Pleasant, (4,800 feet); Mount Franklin, 
(4,900 feet); Mount Monroe, (5,300 feet); Mount Jefferson 





NORTHERN PLEASURE .TRAVEL. 


95 


(5,710 feet); Mount Adams, (5,800 feet); and Mount Wash¬ 
ington, (6,285 feet). On the top of Mount Jefferson is a pond 
of considerable extent, with no visible outlet, but with 
waters clear as crystal and cold as ice. The ascent of this 
summit is seldom made, so rugged is the way. 

Within the central cluster of the highest peaks of this 
range, in near proximity, are the sources of the Ammonu- 
suc, the Saco, the Peabody, Ellis and Moose Rivers; the 
waters of one reaching Long Island Sound through the wind¬ 
ing Connecticut, the others, by western slopes, reach the At¬ 
lantic on the eastern coast. Along these rivers, and on the 
swift mountain streams which feed them, are the cascades 
and falls, which relieve the ruggedness of the slopes and 
gorges as laughter lightens the hum-drum realities of every 
day business. In the swales around the mountains are the 
great forests whence the lumbermen supply the demand of 
the older towns. There is a story of a pine in the old pri¬ 
meval forests towards Lancaster, 264 feet in height, long since 
put to use. 

The Notch, only twenty-two feet wide at its entrance, next 
to Mount Washington, and the view from its summit is the 
great natural feature of the range. It is three miles in 
length, the towering cliffs reaching in some places 2,000 feet 
in height. The Crawford House is near its northern entrance, 
and is the point from which to visit its wonders. The head¬ 
waters of the Saco flow through the pass, which is the 
thoroughfare for travel from Littleton, Bethlehem, and local¬ 
ities on the Connecticut and Ammonusuc to Conway and the 
Saco Valley, or the reverse; though, since the completion 
of the 

MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY, 

much of the pleasure travel goes over Mount Washington, 
ascending by rail for three miles from the lower station to 
the Mount Washington House, recently erected on the sum¬ 
mit. This road, rising in some portions 2,000 feet to the mile, 
and an average rise of one foot in four, offers a mode of as¬ 
cent which has become the great sensation of the mountain 
tour.^ Descending on the east side to the Glen House, by the 


96 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


carriage roadway, the excursionist has a delightful and novel 
experience of mountain staging, with little of fatigue or 
exhausting effort. This jourhey of a day is not one to be for¬ 
gotten. Well might Whittier sing: 

“With smoking axle hot with speed, with steeds of fire and steam. 
Wide-waked to-day, leaves yesterday behind him like a dream.” 

Passengers on the Wing Railroad (the branch previously 
described leading to this point) may stop at Bethlehem or 
pass on to the large, first-class and commodious 






































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


97 


TWIN MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 

A. T. & O. F. Barron, proprietors. One of the largest, finest 
and most complete of the mountain hotels, situated on the 
Ammonusuc River, commanding a full view of the Franconia 
and White Mountians and extensively patronized as a con¬ 
venient point of rest from the fatigue of railway travel 
before attempting the rugged ascents, and, also, as a delight¬ 
ful place of rest after returning from the somewhat exhaust¬ 
ing tour of the summits. 

From this house it is but 10 miles to the Crawford House, 
(5 by rail, 5 by stage) 10 miles to the depot of the Mount 
Washington Railway, where cars are taken for a trip over 
the famed rail line to the crowning summit, 11 miles to the 
Waumbek House in Jefferson, 30 miles to the Glen House, 
and 28 miles to Gorham, by the Cherry Mountain road. 

The express train reaches this station at 4 o’clock p. m., and 
continuing on arives at 

THE FABYAN HOUSE 

at half-past four o’clock p. M. This house is about one-half 
mile from the White Mountain House and near the junction 
of the Mount Washington Turnpike and the road to the 
Crawford House. This new, commodious and elegant hotel 
has been lately erected and will be opened to guests the pre¬ 
sent season, near the site of the old building destroyed by 
fire in 1868, the proprietors not being deterred from rebuild¬ 
ing by the tradition of the red man’s curse in the olden time, 
or the fiery ordeal of the past. 

This new and first-class house is the largest and most com¬ 
plete of the hotels in this section of the mountains; the 
accommodations are for 450 guests,and are on the most liberal 
scale. The view from its piazzas is directly upon Mount 
Washington and the mountain railway. A large farm is con¬ 
nected, supplying milk and other luxuries. Mr. Lindsay, 
formerly of the Eagle Hotel, Concord, and Mr. J. M. French, 
formerly of the Pemigewasset House, Plymouth, N. H., will 
do honor to their position as proprietors, and their past 
experience is a guarantee of future success. The Fabyan 





Fabyan House 

































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


99 


has been built by a company, who saw the need of a better 
house in this section, to accommodate the greatly increasing 
travel. Two hundred thousand dollars have been invested in 
buildings and farm, and it is the design of the proprietors to 
keep it in the best possible manner. Spacious and high 
studded rooms,telegraph office,first-class livery,billiard room, 
bath room, band of music, etc. The elevation is 2,000 feet 
above sea level. No hay fever or asthmatic difficulties. Best 
Concord coaches, with experienced drivers, run to the foot of 
Mount Washington Railway, connecting with trains up the 
mountain side. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN HOUSE 
is about three-fourths of a mile from the Fabyan House, west, 
and in sight of the same, is a well kept house at the intersec¬ 
tion of the Cherry Mountain Road. Near these mountain 
houses are some of the wild falls of the Ammonusuc River, 
the course of which no tourist should fail to explore in this 
vicinity. 

MOUNT PEABODY, 

formerly Mount Prospect, easily ascended from these points 
by carriage road, affords from the summit a beautiful view of 
the western slope of the mountains. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

The Turnpike, Mountain Railway, Hotel and View 
from Summit. 

This imperial summit of the great northern range reaches 
the height of 6,285 feet, and overlooks all surrounding peaks, 
affording the widest outlook of any summit on the northern 
or eastern coast. 

Approached by the Mount Washington Turnpike and Rail¬ 
way on the west,and the carriage road,from the Glen House,on 
the east, tourists can ascend by railway and return by carriage 
road to the Glen or if the ascent is made from the Glen, can 
return by railway, thus, in either case, getting full experi¬ 
ence of this journey, which must be enjoyed in all its novelty 
to be fully appreciated. 


100 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Presuming that you start from the hospitable shelter of the 
Fabyan House you take one of the Concord coaches and ad¬ 
vance by the * 

MOUNT WASHINGTON TURNPIKE, 
now a safe thoroughfare, recently put in good condition, at 
heavy expense, into the immediate neighborhood of the great 
hills, passing in your trip the upper falls on the Ammonusuc. 
Here the river flows in a narrow, winding channel in the 
rocks, lashed into foam by its wild rush between walls of 
granite and among impeding boulders. These falls extend 
for the distant of some three hundred feet, and have a descent 
of about fifty feet. The tourist finds in the rugged beauty of 
the massive walls, the curious hollowing and shaping of the 
rocks by the continual action of musical waters, in the sur¬ 
rounding scenery and peculiar charm of the rapids, a feature 
not to be omitted in the chain of mountain pictures. 

Winding along the base of Mount Washington and up to 
the station of the railway, you are made sensible of your 
approach to the great central attraction of the hills. The 
burly forms of the surrounding peaks swell up on every hand, 
seeming at times to stand as an impenetrable barrier to your 
further progress, but, continuing on, you reach Ammonusuc 
Station, at Marshfield, the lower terminus of the 

MOUNTAIN RAILWAY. 

This renowned mountain railway was chartered by the 
State Legislature (as one of the members remarked,) on the 
same principle that one might have been chartered to the 
moon; the one being, to the ordinary mind, as practicable as 
the other; but the energy and practical ingenuity, and per¬ 
sistence under discouragement and ridicule, of Sylvester 
Marsh, Esq., the projector and inventor, with the efficient 
aid of J. E. Lyon, Esq., President of the Boston, Concord 
& Montreal Railroad, and Walter Aiken, Esq., of Franklin, 
who built the engines and cars, and the financial aid of rail¬ 
ways and individuals, accomplished the feat and established 
the practical working of the enterprise, which abolishes, in 
great measure, the hardships of mountain climbing. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


101 


The length of the railway is about three miles. The total 
rise from the lower station to Mount Washington House, on 
the summit, is 3,625 feet; the steepest grade is 1,980 feet to 
the mile, about one foot in three, but averaging through the 
entire course one foot in four. 

The road bed is constructed with special reference to safe¬ 
ty and durability, of heavy timber, clamped to the rocks of 
the mountain slope, and braced and secured in the strongest 
manner. The track is of the usual gauge, with side rails of 
the usual railway pattern, and a central safety rail, construct¬ 
ed of two parallel bars of angle iron, with cross bolts of 1£ 
inch round iron, at intervals of about four inches; between 
these bolts play the cogs of a central wheel of the locomo¬ 
tive. In addition to ordinary brakes the atmospheric brakes, 
instantaneous in their action, are in use, and, following and 
dropping into the notch-rim of the driving-wheel, is a firm 
iron support which would effectually prevent the descent of 
the train in case of injury to the machinery. Rollers running 
under the angle iron prevent jumping or slipping from the 
track. With these arrangements for safety, the passenger 



















102 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


need feel no alarm or apprehension of’danger, the trip being 
as safe as ordinary rail transit, no accident having occurred 
in the five years the road has been in operation, nor damage 
of a penny, to life, limb or material, during the time of con¬ 
struction or since its operation as a line of travel. 

The locomotive is of novel construction, being made with 
especial reference to the steep inclination of the road, and, 
when standing upon the level track, appears sadly out of 
balance. Safety and power are attained in the construction 
at the expense of speed, which is not sought. The locomo¬ 
tive is always below the train, pushing the coaches upward 
as you ascend and preceding them in the return down the 
slope. The cars have seats hung at an angle, facing toward 
the base. 

The superintendent is Capt. J. W. Dodge, whose interest 
in this novel line of travel is equalled only by his willingness 
to satisfy the many inquiries of the thousands who for the 
first time ascend the mountainside by the “Sensation Route.” 

Single fares either way are $ 3, or for both ways $ 5. Trunks 
and heavy baggage involve an extra charge according to 
space occupied; but ordinary hand baggage is carried free of 
expense. The baggage of parties returning from this point 
will be checked through to their destination, if upon the 
routes previously described. 

The ascent is made in an hour and a quarter, including the 
stoppages for water, and somewhat less in the downward trip 
which is made by force of gravity alone, regulated by the 
brakes. The telegraph wires extend to the summit. 

No three miles of railway in the world afford such a suc¬ 
cession of wild and startling views as the passenger has on 
his mountain ride on this iron line up the steep inclination 
of Mount Washington. Glimpses of the valley below, 
through which winds the turnpike, the wide broken view of 
the valley and mountain, the Great Gulf to the left, into the 
depths of which you look with shrinking and trepidation, 
and, nearing the summit, an eastward view down into the 
Glen, with the white buildings of the Glen House, a speck in 
the valley below. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


103 


The monument of stones near the summit marks the spot 
■ where in 1855, Lizzie Bourne, of Maine, died from exposure, 



as further described in the description of ascent from the Glen 
House by carriage road. The water stations on the way are 
called by appropriate names, such as Gulf Station, Waumbek 
Station, etc. 

Above Waumbek Station is Jacob’s Ladder—a long, high 
trestle work on a steep incline: here the change in vegeta¬ 
tion from trees to lichens is most marked: as the train stops 
to receive supply of water, from cisterns supplied by springs, 
impressive views of the valleys are had and the wild winds 
of the upper air currents assert their strength at a point on 
the ridge between Mts. Clay and Washington, the passenger 
looks down a thousand feet into the “Gulf of Mexico”—a 
wild chasm in which a branch of Peabody River has its 
source; from this point the ascent is more gradual. 












104 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


This journey of a day, from Boston to Mount Washington 
summit is one of magnificent contrasts. The tourist, who, 
all day long, has been whirled along the valleys of New 
England’s fairest rivers, through a panorama of green fields 
and by sparkling lakes, with glimpses of distant hills and 
mountains, may end the day in the delightful stage ride and 
sensational climbing by rail, leaving behind the vegetation 
of the plains and the luxuriant forests around the mountain’s 
base, pass the belt where thrive only the hardier shrubs, and 
the fir tree is dwarfed to the span of a lady’s hand, into the 
region of Alpine plants and the lichens and mosses peculiar 
to the icy regions around the pole, till on the bare rocks of 
the nearly level plateau, on this highest northern outlook 
east of the Rocky Mountains, 

THE MOUNT WASHINGTON HOUSE, 

the new hotel at the summit serving the double purpose of 
depot building and hotel, receives the tired traveler within 
its hospitable doors for a night among the clouds. This new 
house at the summit, erected in 1872, and furnished and 
opened for visitors the past season, has accommodations for 
one hundred and fifty guests. It is conveniently furnished, 
and telegraphic an*d other facilities are afforded the guests 
who spend the night beneath its hospitable roof. All the 
substantiate and luxuries furnished at the mountain houses 
are provided for the tables, and the furnishing and manage¬ 
ment is such as to please all who may be so fortunate as to 
enjoy them. Captain Dodge, the manager of the Mount 
Washington Railway, is the manager of this new hotel, a 
sure guarantee of attention to the travelers’ wants. All the 
necessary provisions for comfort and ease are provided, and, 
in case the house should be overcrowded, the older and well 
known Tip-Top and Summit houses will receive you within 
their more primitive doors. From this high altitude of a 
mile and a quarter above sea level, we can now look down 
along.the grand incline, up which in vast billows of land the 
hills have advanced from the level sea beach to this peerless 
height, and around upon mountains “ named, nameless and 
























































































































































































































































































































106 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 

numberless,” over the vast extent of view which the moun¬ 
tain, personified by Emerson, thus tersely describes: 

“ Every morn I lift my head, 

Gaze o’er New England uuderspread, 

South from St. Lawrence to the sound. 

From Catskill east to the sea bound.” 

VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. 

“Crag heaped on crag, with many a fiery rift and hoary summit.” 

The magnitude of the wide stretch of country seen from 
this high altitude, when first swept by the eye, is overpower¬ 
ing and confusing from its extent and combinations. You 
imagine that the crust of earth has been tossed on a boiling 
caldron, and, at the touch of some mighty power, been con¬ 
gealed at the moment of wildest of ebulition—a sea of sweep¬ 
ing ranges and isolated peaks, broad valleys and forests, 
sparkling lakes and sinuous streams above you. 

“ The sky bends rouud 

The awful dome of a most mighty temple, 

Built by Omnipotent hand for nothing less 
Than infinite worship.” 

The wild and rocky, but somewhat regular plateau of the 
summit, appears as an island surrounded by a petrified sea 
of hills. The jagged and bare peaks of the adjacent moun¬ 
tains, separated by ravines and gulfs of vast depth and out¬ 
line, are the most impressive feature of the wide panorama. 

If you are fortunate to gain an unobstructed view through 
the wide circle, you will look northward over the billowy 
land to the plains of Canada; to the northeast on the far dis¬ 
tant forests of Maine, with the dim outline of Ivatahdin just 
visible in the distance, while near at hand the great attend¬ 
ant mountains of this group—Jefferson, Adams and Mad¬ 
ison—tower in the foreground, a grand cluster of dark and 
rugged summits. Mount Jackson is on the southeast, close 
at hand, with the symmetrical, lone summit of Pequaket 
(Kiarsarge at North Conway) in the distance, and Sebago 
Lake and the surrounding country in Main, and, sometimes, 
the faint blue line of the ocean, scarcely to be separated from 
the sky. in the far distance. Southward is the valley of the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


107 


Saco with its villages, the sharp pyramids of Chucorua and 
the gleam of fair Winnipesaukee. Southwesterly the remain¬ 
ing mountains of this range, Mount Monroe, with its rocky 
peak and the Twin ponds, Mount Pleasant with its regular 
outline, Mount Franklin with a more level surface. Mount 
Willey and the further range of wooded hills. Westward, 
the valley of the Ammonusuc, the village of Bethlehem, the 
naked summit of Mount Lafayette in Franconia, the broken 
silver line of rivers, and in the dim distance, the Green 
Mountains, with Mount Mansfield and Camel’s Hump. 
Northwest, the picturesque town of Jefferson, Pondicherry in 
the embrace of forests, and, further distant, the village of 
Lancaster. 

Viewed in the light of the setting sun, or when morning 
lights burn off the vapors from the face of the wide landscape, 
the scene is one which pen cannot describe nor pencil portray, 
but which memory will not fail to cherish as the choicest 
revelation of nature to be seen in a lifetime. Fortune does 
not always favor the tourist, and he may sometimes stand 
upon this lofty height, veiled in impenetrable mist, and the 
gloom of clouds, hiding the grand outlines which he knows 
lie beneath and around him. 

If the rare privilege is given you to look through the clear 
and unobstructed light of early summer, or later autumn, on 
this blending scene of complex and overpowering grandeur 
and beauty, over which the contrasts of light and shade play 
upon a scale wider than human eye is often privileged to 
view; the grand sweep of masses of clouds and the attendant 
trailing shadows beneath; the scrolls of mist that ride upon 
the winds and the shadows of great summits throwing their 
sombre veil over whole townships as the sun declines, allin- 
spire you with the feeling that you have been admitted into 
near and familiar contact with scenes in nature heretofore 
unknown to you, and perhaps, to crown all, while you are 
dreaming, a roaring storm gathers on the unsheltered cone 
and you shrink to nothingness in the midst of its resistless 
fury. The storm, the lightning, and the clouds are not from 
above, but you are in the midst of or above them. 


108 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


WINTER ABOVE THE CLOUDS. 

On the bald summit of Washington, in the teeth of winter 
hurricanes, the daring and scientific gentlemen live in arctic 
seclusion, each winter, among the dense clouds and roaring 
tempests of the great height, alternating with brilliant sunsets, 
shows of frost-work, and cloud-views; an experience of 
“ high life,” grand and sublime; the better appreciated by 
the earnest natures who have experienced it; for the spice of 
danger and novelty of experience here had. Occasional visi¬ 
tors relieve the monotony of their solitary life, two ladies 
being of the number who made the ascent the past winter. 
It is a peculiar experience for those who so courageously 
brave the exposure. Oceans of clouds pierced by snow¬ 
capped peaks, all below being hidden in impenetrable frost- 
clouds ; the swift growth of clouds and storms and almost 
irresistible force of the winds, with the lonely lack of all 
animate life, are the grand peculiarities of their winter 
experience. 

THE CRAWFORD HOUSE 

is situated at the gate of the White Mountain or Crawford 
Notch. It is one of the finest in its plan, of the mountain 
houses, the piazzas, of ample width, extending the entire 
length of the building. It stands upon a plain 2,000 feet above 
sea level. A small lake near the Notch gate is the source of 
the Saco, and the Ammonusuc is also supplied from springs 
on the same plain. A. T. & O. F. Barron are the proprietors 
of the house, and C. H. Merrill, Esq., their popular associate 
in the management. This is the house naturally chosen by 
visitors to the Notch, being located at the very gates, and is 
also a convenient halting place for those passing through from 
North Conway, or returning to that point. 

Tourists formerly ascended from this house to the summit 
of Mount Washington by bridle path, but, since the opening 
of the Mountain Railway, the path has fallen into disuse and 
is out of repair. The house is, in every respect, first-class and 
accommodates some three hundred guests. Near to the 
house are 


The Crawford House 



miwnin 


'iHiimn «ii i n 


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miidinni 


11 nmnn i 


^ii ii m r in 



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110 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


GIBBS’ FALLS, 

so named for a former landlord of the hotel. They are 
reached by a walk of a half hour from the hotel. Here the brook 
makes a leap of nearly forty feet, in two sheets of white foam, 
separated by a small islet, on which a lone pine tree stands 
guard. A succession of lesser falls on the same stream will 
tempt you to further exploration. 

BEECHER’S FALLS CASCADE, 

only about a half mile from the hotel, is upon the little 
mountain brook which flows down the slope to the right of 
the road, reached by a shaded pathway. In one of the 
pools of this stream the eminent divine whose name they 
bear was “immersed,” not intentionally, but like other 
men, he “ fell.” He describes the brook as, at one point, 
“ whirling itself into a plexus of cords,” or a “ pulsating braid 
of water.” For more than a fourth of a mile, the stream 
sweeps down over rocks hung with moss, and through chan¬ 
nels worn in beautiful contour, arched with green leaves and 
luxuriant trees. 

The location of the house is on a fine plateau, and a pleas¬ 
ant grove in front gives ample lounging space, if you are dis¬ 
posed to take life easy and avoid the fatigue of continual 
sight-seeing and climbing. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN OR “ CRAWFORD ” NOTCH. 

Next to the ascent of Mount Washington, and previous to 
that if you do not return, you will wish to explore the attrac¬ 
tions of this widely-famed pass in the mountains. The pecu¬ 
liar grandeur of this vast and awful gorge cannot be 
described in words, and the artist transmits the grand out¬ 
lines but imperfectly. On either hand, the forbidding line 
of precipices tower above you in imposing grandeur, and you 
halt and turn to admire its savage ruggedness. It extends 
for a distance of about three miles, running from northwest 
to southeast. 

The “Gate of the Notch” is in the near vicinity of the 
Crawford House,and is a chasm between perpendicular rocks, 
distant from each other but 22 feet; the diminutive stream 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Ill 


flowing at one side is the commencement of the Saco River, 
which runs with rapid course and increasing volume through 
the fairest of valleys to the sea. 

Riding down the Notch from the Crawford House, through 
the “ gates,” you pass within the wild gorge, and if you have 
a guide or companion versed in the localities of the great 
ravine, your eye and mind will be intent upon a series of 
views and objects, of which it were foolish to attempt minute 
description other than by name and general outline. Just 
before entering the “gates ” a path diverges to the left, lead¬ 
ing to “ The Elephant’s Head. 

“ Pulpit Rock ” is a great overhanging column of stone, the 
form of which is best indicated by its name, a bold buttress or 
column. 

The “Baby,” the “Young man of the Mountain” and 
the “ Grandmother ” will be pointed out, figures more or 
1 ess distinct, formed by jutting masses of rock on the ragged 
walls. The * ‘gates,” at the entrance, are but 22 feet in width, 
and “ Sentinel Rock ” stands guard near the entrance: It is 
to be regretted that the line of the Portland & Ogdensburg 
Railroad,now being graded through the Notch,necessitates the 
destruction of some of these curious outlines and destroys the 
natural wildness of the “Gates.” The “Old Maid” is a 
most venerable specimen of the anxious and aimless class, 
while the “African Face” is of unmistakable Ethiopian 
outline, high up on a spur of Mount Willard to the right, as 
you ride down the Notch from the Crawford House. At a 
bend in the road, nearly a mile from the gateway, is one of 
the most impressive scenes in the Notch, where the great out¬ 
lines of Mounts Webster, Willey and Willard crowd in con¬ 
centrated sweeping lines upon the narrow way. Further on, 
at the Willey House, the pass is more open and the long range 
of walls on either hand have more of regularity, and the gorge 
is more open. 


THE WILLEY HOUSE. 

This house is located under the steep acclivity of Mount 
Willey, which rises some 2,000 feet behind the house, and 


112 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


opposite is the forbidding front of Mount Webster, the little 
Saco river flowing near by. The kind and hospitable Samuel 
Willey, Jr., lived here at the time of the great calamity. 

On the night of Monday, the 28th of August, 1826, occurred 
that terrible storm which fed the mountain branches of the 
Saco and the Ammonusuc, and changed the limpid current 
from a gentle running stream to a mad rush of whirling 
waters, breaking old bounds and roaring in lawless torrents, 
freighted with the loosened soil and trees swept from the 
steep sides of the overhanging hills; during this terrible 
night the tragic disaster of the Willey House occurred; the 
house itself received no injury, but the frightened inmates 
who sought safety by flight from the mad fury of the crashing 
slides, were found buried in the debris below. The faithful 
house dog, escaping unhurt, appeared at Conway, and by all 
the resources of brute intellect, sought to give tidings of the 
calamity, failing in which he disappeared at the top of his 
speed,and afterwards, though occasionally seen, was missing. 
The father, mother, five children, and two hired men 
perished; the bodies of two sons and a daughter were never 
found. 

The burial service of these victims of tragic death, as per¬ 
formed on the spot, are described as singularly impressive. 
The words of the solemn prayer of the good elder, offered 
with distinct and measured utterance, came back in slow and 
solemn echoes from the seamed walls of the circling moun¬ 
tains. 

The slopes of Mount Willey are quite bare, having only 
enough of soil to furnish root-hold for the scanty crop of 
dwarfed birches that somewhat relieve the desolation of the 
scarred walls. 

Riding back from the Willey House the black mouth of the 
“ Devil’s Den” is seen high up in the rocky front of Mount 
Willard. 

DRIVE TO THE SUMMIT OP MOUNT WILLA.RD . 

This safe and easy shaded ascent of about two miles m ay 
be made in carriages from the hotel, or without difficulty by 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


113 


pedestrians. Emerging from the forest you come out upon 
a level plateau on the very verge of the sheer precipice, going 
down into the yawning depth of the Notch. It is a grand 
outlook—the key to the beauties of this famed mountain pass, 
and, if viewed under favorable lights, you linger upon the 
rocky plateau, loth to lose the impression of the actual 
scene—the grand outlines of the gorge, the winding road 
through the whole extent, the famed “Willey House,” the 
track of slides upon the bold slopes of either mountain, and 
the sparkling line of the mountain brooks leaping in gleam¬ 
ing and sinuous falls, down the rugged walls; perhaps, over all, 
a roof of clouds lying before you in the soft sunlight, 

“ Through which the summits tower 
Like to p ilaces of spar 
Built on a sea of pearl.” 

The stillness of the great height and the grand sublimity 
of the landscape can but impress the beholder with admira¬ 
tion and awe. It seems possible to throw a stone upon the roof 
of the Willey House, so deceptive is the distance. From this 
point you look also upon.the “ Flume and Silver Cascades,” 
and down the grand line of marshaled summits which en¬ 
close this wild pass in the direction of North Conway. 

THE FLUME, 

a brook pouring through the worn chasm or rent in the solid 
rock, on the side of Mount Webster, is noted as one of the 
beauties of the Notch,leaping through the curious zigzag chan¬ 
nel of stone in noisy and picturesque disturbance on its way 
to join the waters of the fair Saco. 

THE SILVER CASCADE, 

above the Flume, and a sort of continuation of the same, 
slides down the mountain side for a mile, in windings, leap- 
ings and turnings innumerable; now in a broad sheet of 
whitened foam, again divided in several streams, narrowing 
to a swift current through the worn and narrow channel. 
The view from the rude bridge, or from a point at the base of 
the fall, is of unrivalled interest and beauty, and from all 


114 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 



points this mountain cascade is one of the attractions by no 
means to be passed by. You will linger by its whitened tor¬ 
rent with increasing admiration. Parties from the Crawford 
House can visit these falls at a very trivial expense. 

FALLS ON AVLANCHE BROOK. 

These falls are about six miles from the Crawford House, 
on Mount Willey, upon a stream which flows down the slope 
of the mountain, near the track of the memorable land slide, 
and joins the Saco below the Willey House. Following this 
brook, now known as Ripley’s or Avalanche brook, nearly 
two miles up the mountain, a grand cascade bursts upon the 
view, falling between granite walls of picturesque forms and 
wonderful shaping. The commencement of these falls is a 
succession of rocky steps some fifty feet wide, continuing in a 















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


115 


widening incline, broken into sweeping curves, through the 
solid rock into the reservoir at the foot. These falls are now 
christened the “ Sylvan Glade Cataract.” A mile further up 
the brook is a lesser series of falls called the “ Spai kling 
Cascade,” worthy of a visit. 

This tour of the Notch including the ascent of Mount 
Willard, should by no means be omitted in your mountain 
trip; the lavish display of wildness and bold scenes and out¬ 
lines calls to mind the lines of the Yankee rhymester— 

✓ ' 

“ Dame Nature once, while coating well 
This fiery mass o’er which we dwell, 

Had 8nrplus left of ends and outs, 

These masses vast in ruin thrown 
By streamlet worn and moss o’ergrown, 

In winrowed heaps lie hereabouts.” 


CHAPTER VII. 


From Mount Washington, or the Crawford House, to 
North Conway, or the Glen House. 


Leaving the level plateau at the Crawford House, and en¬ 
tering at the “ Gates of the Notch”, you pass by gradual de¬ 
scent and rough and winding roadway, over bridges which 
span the rocky channels of mountain torrents, with the cu¬ 
rious rock figures on either hand upon the ragged walls, and 
the bold outlines of the grand pass to the front and rear. 

Passing the famed Willey House, the tragic story of which 
was briefly told in the preceding chapter, and the graves of 
the unfortunate inmates who perished here on that fearful 
night, and continuing down the Notch, from the Willey 
House, you emerge from its gloom and grandeur and pass 
through enclosing forests in a southeasterly direction, the 
towering masses of the Giants’ Stairs (3,500 ft.) Mt. Resolu¬ 
tion and Mt. Crawford (3,400 and 3,200 ft. respective eleva¬ 
tions) loom up to the left; the Saco, swelled by many moun¬ 
tain streams and greatly increased in volume since you lis¬ 
tened to its noisy but invisible flow among the rocks at the 
Notch entrance, flows by the roadway. 

The old Mount Crawford House is next reached, once an 
important rendezvous for tourists, hunters and anglers, now 
kept as a boarding house. Mount Washington is sometimes 
ascended from this point by a route not of late much patron¬ 
ized, but offering great attractions to the genuine lover of na¬ 
ture. This spot is of interest as being the former residence 
of old Abel Crawford, and is six miles distant from the Willey 




NORTHERN TLEASURE TRAVEL. 


117 


House. The amount of teaming past this place through the 
Notch in the early days, before the day of railroads, was im¬ 
mense ; an old resident tells of counting for a single day the 
teams passing from above and below at this point, reaching 
the number of three hundred, only two or three of which 
were single teams. 

About a half mile further on is Nancy’s Brook, from its 
associations, a place of sad interest. It was here in 1778 that 
an unfortunate girl, deserted by her lover, perished from ex¬ 
posure, in the vain attempt to overtake the recreant deserter 
by a foot journey through this, then, almost impassable route. 
A stone, known as “ Nancy’s Rock” is pointed out as a mark 
of the tragedy. Further on is a great bend in the road and 
river around Hart’s Ledge where Sawyer’s river is crossed. 

harts’ location 

is the present terminus of the Portland and Ogdensburg 
Railroad, now building through the notch, and stages from 
the Fabyan house and Mt. Washington Railway connect 
here with trains to and from Portland and the east. 

From this point to Bartlett the valley of the Saco is closely 
followed, in an easterly direction, and 

sawyer’s rock, 

at Upper Bartlett is passed. One Nash, the discoverer of the 
pass known as the Notch, was associated with Sawyer in the 
first transportation of a horse through the rough gorge—then 
a work of difficulty. When the last obstruction was over¬ 
come, their emptied rum bottle was dashed against this high 
rock, and Sawyer’s Rock has been the name it has since 
borne. Sawyer’s River is the small stream here crossed. 
The building of the road through to the Notch was an under¬ 
taking of great importance, in the days when it was attempt¬ 
ed, with the limited means for carrying out the project. 

From this point the way is still along the valley of the Saco 
and passes the neat little “Chapel of the Hills” upon the 
right, a tasty building erected by summer residents. The 
three peaks of Mt. Carrigan (4,800 feet, highest elevation) 
a bold mass of peaks little known in descriptive works, be- 


118 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


ing outside of all usual routes of travel, loom up to the right 
and rear. Stanton Mountain and the White Ledge are promi¬ 
nent to the left, and 

BARTLETT 

is reached—a scattered settlement lying along the valley of 
the Saco. The Bartlett House is the half way or halting sta¬ 
tion on the route from the Crawford to the Glen House, dis¬ 
tant 15 miles from the former, and 20 miles from the latter. 

From this village the tourist may pass directly on to North 
Conway, with charming views of the famed Conway Inter¬ 
vals and the grand and massive pyramidal mass of Mt. Pe- 
quaket or Kiarsarge before you, crossing the east branch of the 
Saco near the Interval House. Of this beautiful village—the 
key to the mountain region, when approached from the east, 
see chapter on “ North Conway and surroundings.” 

TO THE GLEN. 

A large number will diverge at Bartlett and continue the 
regular route to the Glen House, along the valley of the Ellis 
River, through Pinkham Notch. 

GOODRICH FALLS, 

upon the Ellis River, will be the first feature of promin¬ 
ence to attract your attention; this is the heaviest fall in the 
mountains in perpendicular descent. From the old bridge in 
front of the fall a good view may be obtained, also from the 
shore below, and from the rocks on the right bank. 

Continuing northward you will enjoy grand surprises as 
the massive ridges of the White Mountain range burst occas¬ 
ionally into view. 

THE TOWN OF JACKSON, 

a mile beyond the falls, is noted for the value and variety of 
the minerals there found. 

Iron Mountain is nearly 3,000 feet high, and with Thorn 
Mountain is rich in veins of iron ore. Tin (the first found in 
the United States,) and copper ores are also found, with other 
valuable minerals. On the way from Goodrich Falls, Jack- 
son Falls and the Jackson Falls House are passed before 
reaching the rural 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


119 


JACKSON CITY, 

a city only in name; and sweeping around the base of 
Eagle Mountain and climbing through thick forests continue 
on through the desolation of 

PINKHAM NOTCH, 

or Pinkham Pass, which takes its name from the family of 
early settlers of that name who, in April 1790, tenanted a 
log house, previously erected, which they found buried in 
the deep snows of that inclement season. The ingenuity of 
one of the boys in harnessing the pig (their only live stock), 
to the hand-sled, containing the entire outfit of the family, is 
narrated by Willey in his “ Incidents of White Mountain 
History;” he also relates the incidents of the fearful tornado 
of 1821, which swept the town. 

Passing the ways leading from the road to Glen Ellis Falls 
and the Crystal cascade, which we shall visit from the Glen 
House, by the contiguous sources of the Ellis and Peabody 
Rivers, and along the increasing and musical line of the lat¬ 
ter stream, Mount Carter being occasionally seen to the right, 
you ride through forests, charmingly festooned with mosses, 
cross the bridge on the Peabody River, pass the carriage 
road to Mount Washington to the left, and ascend to the hos¬ 
pitable shelter and enjoyment of the startling views so pecu¬ 
liar to the location of the 

GLEN HOUSE, 

W. & C. R. Milliken, proprietors. This house is situated 
within the vast hollow, bounded by a rim of*mountain peaks, 
and more than 1,600 feet above sea level. Mount Wash¬ 
ington is in view from its grounds. Adams, Jefferson, Clay, 
and Madison circle away to the northeast in impressive grand¬ 
eur, seamed with the scars of terrific slides and desolating 
torrents. Mount Adams appears, from this point, the high¬ 
est, but less burly and majestic than Washington. 

* Mount Carter is in the rear of the Glen House, and from 
its side the tourist who takes the trouble to climb through 
the forests to a favorite point of view, will gain an unob¬ 
structed outlook upon the five great peaks of the mountain 


120 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 



range from Washington northward—Clay, Jefferson, Adams 
and Madison. The traveler who makes his stay at this house 
for a time, will be at no loss for lack of the wonderful and the 
beautiful to excite and charm away the hours. The house 
itself is one of the largest and most commodious in the 
mountains, in appearance like two buildings, connected by a 
central one, giving a long front of piazza, and overlooking 
the Peabody River and the great mountain range. Stage 
lines connect with Eastern Railway trains at North Conway 





























































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 121 

and with Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad at North Con¬ 
way and Bartlett, also stage line through Bartlett to Craw¬ 
ford House. Autumnal catarrh and hay fever are unknown 
troubles with the patrons of this house. 

The house is opened June 12th, for visitors, and an excel¬ 
lent band of music is in attendance for promenading and 
dancing in its spacious halls in the pleasure season. 

Visitors to the Notch may ascend-to the summit by the 
carriage road, and descend by the Mountain Railway to the 
Fabyan or White Mountain House, and from thence to the 
Crawford House at the Notch. But there are numerous 
objects of interest in and around the Glen which will be visi¬ 
ted before making the ascent. 

PEABODY RIVER 

runs in front of the hotel, and distant about a mile. On the 
same are those curious proofs of the effects of continued ac¬ 
tion of running water upon solid rock, known as the “ Gar¬ 
net Pools,” where the solid granite bed is worn for some dis¬ 
tance into curious and peculiar forms, which can but inter¬ 
est you. 

On the road to Conway, over which you have come from 
Bartlett, a more leisurely visit will enable you to see those 
curiosities in nature which so greatly add to the attractions 
at this point. 

THE EMERALD POOL, 

near the roadway, is a charming reservoir of water from the 
river, in delightful quiet, and should not be omitted in the 
sights of the region. About two miles from the hotel are 

THOMPSON’S FALLS, 

on a brook of no great rise, leading into the Peabody River, 
extending for nearly three-fourths of a mile in a succession 
of lovely, broken falls, of easy descent, without presenting 
any startling features, but with much of picturesque beauty, 
and the climb along the wild stream brings you to points 
from which you gain glorious mountain views. 


122 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


CRYSTAL CASCADE. 

These cascades are reached by a path diverging from the 
road about three and one-half miles south of the hotel, and 
leading up the side of the great mountain; following this for 
half a mile, you reach the top of a jutting spur overhanging 
a water-chiseled chasm, through which a bright stream gur¬ 
gles with hoarse murmuring, while, from far up on the 
mountain side, the crystal cascade comes gliding down; 
light, feathery and white as the snow, come the pure waters 
of the stream, descending from the side of Mount Washing¬ 
ton, under the walls of Tuckerman’s Ravine—a long, sheer 
descent of successive leaps and turns. 

Tuckermcin's Ravine may be reached by following this 
stream from the Cascade by a path known as Thompson’s path, 
whjch leaves the carriage road some two miles from the base 
of Mount Washington, but is perhaps oftener explored by 
descending into it from the summit. This long, deep ravine, 
in the southern slope of the mountain, is filled to great depth 
by the accumulated snows of winter; the summer heats 
usually dispel the immense snow bank during the month of 
; August. In the process of melting, the gradual wear of the 
streams sometimes forms a grand arch of snow, of magnifi¬ 
cent proportions, and worn by melting processes into beauti¬ 
ful forms and outlines. The “Snow Arch” formed by the 
waters from “ a thousand streams” running under and melt¬ 
ing the snow is grand in the extreme, in the early part of 
August. This grand ice arch sometimes extends for two or 
three hundred feet, supported by ice pillars standing on 
boulders which prevent the melting of the column of ice 
resting upon them; but the long summer eventually tells 
upon the frigid mass and the ice-palace vanishes in humid 
mists. 


GLEN ELLIS FALLS 

are about four miles from the Glen House—reached by tak¬ 
ing a footpath leading from the main road through a pine 
thicket, which speedily brings you to the brink of a rocky 
precipice, above a narrow gorge overhung with dark masses 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


123 


of foliage. Descending this 6liff by the irregular natural 
steps and rude artificial helps, you reach the bottom of a 
dark chasm and stand upon the brink of a foaming caldron 
of emerald water, and glancing upwards, you can see the 
stream leaping seventy feet at a single bound from a worn 
channel of the rock. The scenery around this water-fall 
combines all the elements of beauty, wildness and startling 
contrast, which the most romantic could expect or desire. 

FROM THE GLEN HOUSE. 

This is still a favorite way of scaling the side of the central 
summit of the mountains. The road winds along the moun¬ 
tain-side a distance of eight miles from the hotel to the 
Mount Washington House, and is both safe and easy of as¬ 
cent. This road was finished in 1861, after six years of la¬ 
bor, and has an average grade of little less than one foot in 
eight, from which it varies in no great degree. The time oc¬ 
cupied in making the ascent is about three hours. The low¬ 
er half of the journey is by a winding way through forests, 
emerging at the “ Ledge” upon the bare wall of the moun¬ 
tain, and winding along the brink of the Great Gulf, across 
which you look upon the entire slopes of Mounts Jefferson, 
Adams and Madison; and, continuing on, it overlooks the 
Glen and the valley through Pinkham Pass, and up the val¬ 
ley of the Peabody River toward Gorham. 

The views widen and increase in scope and grandeur as 
you approach the summit, which seems to develop itself 
anew as you continue to rise over successive ridges. There 
is neither danger nor inconvenience in this way of ascent. 
Baggage wagons accompany the passenger carriages,enabling 
parties to descend on the other side by railway to the Fayban, 
White Mountain, Twin Mountain or Crawford House, as 
their inclination may lead. 

The view from the summit has been previously described, 
as have also the accommodations for a night among the 
clouds, or a longer stay if you are enamored with the novel 
experience of life at an elevation of 6,300 ft. above sea level. 

Before the building of the carriage road the ascent was tire¬ 
some and attended with danger. 


124 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Near the summit, on the road, is the Lizzie Bourne mon¬ 
ument, previously noticed. It is a pyramid of rough stones 
surmounted by a slab. Miss Bourne perished from exposure 
on this spot in 1855. In company with two male relatives 
she attempted the ascent of the mountain without a guide, 
and, bewildered and chilled, perished from exposure in the 
immediate vicinity of the summit houses. 

We have again brought you to the summit and again leave 
you to choice of ways, no longer wanting, by which to de¬ 
scend. While at the Glen House many will wish to take the 
pleasant trip to Gorham, on the Grand Trunk Railway, in 
the Androscoggin valley, distant from the Glen some eight 
miles. Stages from the Glen House connect with all trains 
over the Grand Trunk Railway at this point. Going north¬ 
ward from Gorham those wishing to make the circuit of the 
mountains, or to visit Franconia and the western side, on 
their return may take the Boston, Concord & Montreal trains 
at Northumberland and return southward via Lancaster, 
Littleton, and Plymouth and Lake Winnipisaukee. 


CHAPTER VIII. 


NORTH CONWAY AND SURROUNDINGS. 


This charming village is reached by the popular boat, 
stage and rail route from Weirs across fair lake Winnipe- 
saukee to Centre Harbor , thence by the picturesque stage 
route to West Ossipee on the Great Falls and Conway Rail¬ 
road and thence to destination by rail: giving great variety 
of scenery and novelty of experience. 

HOTELS. 

Of these there is no lack, and the visitor may suit his taste 
as to locality and style of entertainment. In the immediate 
vicinity of the new Eastern Railroad station is the new, large 
and commodious first class.hotel, the Iyiarsarge House, 
kept by Messrs. Thompson, Son & Andrews. It will accom¬ 
modate three hundred guests, and is built and furnished on a 
scale of liberality which is sustained in the details of manage¬ 
ment. The building is lighted with gas, and the nearness to 
the station is a convenience to business men. 

The Interval House, kept by Mudgett & Son, is located 
under the slope of Mount Pequaket, or Kiarsarge, is within 
a beautiful enclosure of hills and surrounded by attractive 
points, easily reached by short walks from the Hotel. The 
buildings are comparatively new, and it will be found to be a 
centre of attractions for those who tarry at this point. The 
Sunset Pavilion, by Mason, is extensively patronized, and 
the manager and employees evidently intend that there shall 
be no lack of attention on their part to the wants of their 
patrons. The Me Millan House is to the southward, in the 




126 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


direction of Artists’ Falls, and the North Conway House, 
by N. R. Mason, the Washington House and the Randall 
House all receive extensive patronage in the summer months. 

The Mason House is a new and elegant hotel, complete in 
its furnishing, kept by the senior Mason, formerly of the Sun¬ 
set Pavilion, so long and favorably known* to the traveling 
public. 

The Randall House is a commodious and well furnished 
hotel, kept by J. T. Randall, Esq., well known to frequent¬ 
ers of this fair village for several years. Carriages connect 
with the railroad trains from all the hotels. 

This romantic village is the centre of resort in the Saco 
valley, and the key to the mountain region from the south¬ 
east. The village lies upon a plain of some four or five 
miles long by three wide, overlooking the intervales of the 
Saco, which is here a stream of several rods in width, forda¬ 
ble in many places and flowing over a bed of the purest 
stones and pebbles^ worn and washed to smoothness and 
whiteness by the pure waters. The stream is liable to rapid 
rising at times, to the great danger of those having property 
upon its banks; at the time of the Willey disaster it rose 
twenty-four feet in a single night. 

The smiling intervales or meadows are noted for their 
beauty, and the distant view of the giant peaks of the White 
Mountains to the northward, looking up the Saco valley, is 
considered one of the finest in the State, the distance soften¬ 
ing all harsh and rugged outlines into beautiful curves and 
combinations. 

To the northeast of the village, 

PEQUAKET, 

or Kiarsarge Mountain rises, a lone, swelling summit, sym¬ 
metrical in outline, surmounted by the hotel clamped to the 
rocks of the very summit. The elevation is 3,367 feet, and it 
stands like an immovable sentinel upon the outpost of the 
grim host of hills. The ascent can be made with horses, or by 
pedestrians, without difficulty, to the very summit. From this 
highest southern elevation there is a magnificent view of the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


127 


whole army of hills to the north and west, including the 
whole White Mountain Range, and of the grand central 
dome, Mount Washington, and Mount Lafayette, of the 
Franconia group. The fair valley of the Saco can be follow¬ 
ed from near its source in the mountain fastness far on its 
course to the sea. To the east lie the reaches of level coun¬ 
try in Maine and the waters of fair Sebago and the lesser lakes. 

There is a range of rugged hills to the east called “ Rattle¬ 
snake Ridge,” and “ Mote Mountain” to the southwest, with 
the sharp pyramids of old Chucorua in the same direction, 
but in the far distance. 

Starr King say§ “ we have seen no other region of New 
England so swathed in dreamy cha'Vm,”—that at times “ the 
spiritual heights, from which nature issues, unseal their op¬ 
ulence, and send the freshet of bloom—times when the finer 
‘ light in light’ will break its bounds, and the whole valley, 
will turn into a goblet brimming with beauty too liberal to 
be contained by the mountain walls that are tinted with its 
weird waves.” 

THE LEDGES, 

upon the face of Mote Mountain, rise almost perpendicularly 
in a rocky face of several miles extent, reaching at some 
points a height of eight hundred feet. In the ride to these 
ledges, from the village, by the road, through the fields and 
plains, the sparkling waters of the Saco are twice forded. 

ECHO LAKE 

is a gem among the mountain lakes, unruffled by the slightest 
breeze, sleeping beneath the rocky walls and reflecting the 
bold outline of overhanging cliffs. The blast of a horn and 
the sound of the voice are clearly and sharply echoed from' 
the cliffs, sometimes, with a slight re-echo, but wanting 
the resounding repetition of the like named wonder at Fran¬ 
conia. 

THE CATHEDRAL. 

In the wall of the great ledges, next visited, is a cave of for¬ 
ty feet in depth by some sixty feet in height; you stand 
within it, as within a wide, rough granite alcove in the face 


128 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


of the wall, the forest trees standing in audience before you 
and shading the light which falls within. Along the seamed 
walls the work of the silent forces of the frost are seen at the 
base; great flakes and blocks pried off the granite face of 
the walls by freezing wedges of ice, lie in confusion, and oth¬ 
ers seem hanging only by the slightest hold, which the next 
frost wedge will loosen and hurl below. 

devil’s den. 

In the debris at the foot of the ledge, not far from the Ca¬ 
thedral, formed by a huge scale of granite, sliding over a 
mass of loose blocks, is the “ Devil’s Den,” an enclosed space 
in the fallen mass entered by creeping through a tortuous 
passage. By lighting a fire in this cave you can take a lunch ? 
with no fear of disturbance from his Satanic majesty, and to 
the great delight of the juveniles. 

Thompson’s Falls must not be forgotten in the visit, and 
DIANA’S BATHS 

are another wonder which should be seen by all. Another 
way, through pastures and forests, and you reach a small 
mill, above which the stream from the forest flows over a bed 
of the whitest granite, flecked with crystals. Ordinarily the 
flow of water is not large, but the solid granite bed is worn 
in every conceivable form, dropping in steps at irregular in¬ 
tervals, and filled with wells worn in the solid surface by 
whirling eddies and revolving boulders, seamed by the swift 
and continual flow of ceaseless currents into curious and fan¬ 
tastic grooves. Unless swollen by unusual rains you need 
not look for startling or overwhelming features; but for curi¬ 
ous and beautiful combinations it is worthy of a visit, and 
will impress itself indelibly on the memory. 

artist’s falls. 

These charming falls are to the south of the village, in a 
picturesque and shaded place, and are widely known in prints 
and photographic representations. All will wish to look upon 
the beautiful fall among the wild combination of rocks and 
shading trees; but here, as in nearly all the charms around 
North Conway, look rather for quiet loveliness than for the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 12 $ 

overpowering and forbidding aspects presented in the imme¬ 
diate vicinity of the mountains. 

DRIVES. 

Though you may remain for weeks at North Conway, you 
may have a new drive or Walk of absorbing interest each day 
of your stay. Excursions "to Chucorua Lake and Gould’s 
Pond, to Conway Corner, to Fryeburg, once a very important 
village, built on a broad plain within a wide sweep of the 
Saco, are often made. Near by is Love well’s Pond, with 
thickly wooded shores, near which was fought that desperate 
battle with the Indians, so terrible in the slaughter of both 
the whites and savages—one of the most fierce and obstinate 
of the encounters with the Pequaket Indians. The com¬ 
mander, Capt. Love well, and more than a quarter of the 
whole white force, fell at the first onset, but the fight con¬ 
tinued for ten hours, when the savages retired. An excursion 
to Jackson and the Cascades, on the branch of the Ellis Riv¬ 
er, should not be omitted. 

, CHUCORUA. 

That “rocky miss of bare granite spires and shafts,” the 
sharpest pinnacle of the entire region, excepting Mount 
Adams, reaches an elevation of 3,360 feet. The scaling of its 
upright ledges is esteemed a test of courage and strength. It 
may be reached from Conway. 

The Bearcamp River House, at West Ossipee, a favorite 
point of departure under its former management, will be sus¬ 
tained and improved by the present proprietors. A fine view 
of the mountain and the surrounding country is had from this 
point, and teams are furnished for excursionists, sportsmen 
and others. J. H. Plummer, Esq., is the present proprietor. 
It is a cosy and delightful loitering place. 

CONWAY, N. H. 

This quiet valley town, on the banks of the Saco, though 
forgotten and overshadowed by the places of more general 
resort, has great charms for those who have learned to enjoy 
its quiet and the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The 


/ 

130 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 

Conway House, L. H. Eastman proprietor, is one of the larg¬ 
est and best of the hotels of this region, providing for guests 
all substantial comforts. The livery stable is one of the best 
connected with any of the country hotels. Patrons are taken 
to all points of interest in the mountain region, and the many 
drives are unsurpassed in their attractions. Anglers find this 
a favorite place at which to spend a few days or weeks. The 
Pequaket House is a smaller but commodious and well kept 
hotel. 


t 



CHAPTER IX. 


AROUND GORHAM. 


The Androscoggin valley and the hills that enclose it, with 
the noble outlook from neighboring elevations, make a visit 
there a pleasure to live in memory, and Gorham is the point 
where the tourist naturally tarries. 

Mount Carter, Mount Moriah, and the lesser and central 
“ Imp,” are three prominent features in the landscape to the 
south; the first 5,000 feet in height, the second 4,700 feet, and 
the three forming the eastern slope of the Glen. The outline 
of Mount Moriah is a series of curves and flowing lines, 
softened by the luxuriant forests which clothe its waving 
slopes. Mount Carter is rugged, scarred and seamed, in the 
long slope which it presents to view at this point. 

RANDOLPH HILL, 

five miles from the village, is an elevation from which the 
finest imaginable view of the surrounding mountains may be 
had, and is a favorable point from which to study the rare 
combinations of the wild and rugged landscape. 

THE PILOT HILLS, 

to the northwest, are grand in outline, and in a deep cleft of 
the range the ice and snow, among the immense granite 
blocks in the cold shadows of the ravine, defy the extreme 
heat of the warmest summer. The Androscoggin Hills lie 
along to the eastward. The noble outline of Mount Hayes to 
the northeast being the most prominent peak. 





132 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


DRIVES. 

A stay of a few days at this point enables the tourist to en¬ 
joy the fine drives in this vicinity. The drive to the Lead 
Mine Bridge, four miles from the village, near the abandoned 
lead mine, and noted as a favorable site from which to view 
the valley of the Androscoggin, with its chain of green isles 
and background of noble mountains, and the;.great White 
Mountains, robbed by the distance of their forbidding aspects, 
but standing out in noble outline in the vast picture here pre¬ 
sented. There is also the drive to Shelburne, six miles be¬ 
low, and the view from Bald Cap Mountain; to Berlin Falls, 
six miles above the village—a series of rapids, where, for 
nearly a mile, the Androscoggin sweeps in a long, rapid de¬ 
scent, much admired for its wild beauty and fascinating 
power. 

ASCENT OF MOUNTAIN SUMMITS. 

The climbing of Mount Surprise (1,200 feet elevation,) by 
bridle-path requires no undue exertions, and the view com¬ 
mands an unobstructed sight of the great mountain range, 
and looks directly upon the wildest and most rugged scenery 
of the hills and the Androscoggin valley. No summit so 
easily reached commands so wide and charming a view as 
this. Mount Hayes (so named in honor of a former landlady 
of the Alpine House,) may also be ascended by bridle-path, 
affording a view in which Mount Washington stands out in 
all its majesty and grandeur, and the winding valley of the 
Androscoggin, with its clean banks, many islands and noble 
enclosing hills, is seen for a score of miles. 

Mount Moriah may be now ascended by footpath. From 
this summit of 4,700 feet elevation, reached by a path through 
thick forests and over bare ledges of the mountain side, the 
outlook is upon the sea of summits in a circle broken only 
upon the southwest by the open country of Maine. 

FROM GORHAM TO THE NOTCH. 

The route to the Notch from Gorham by the Cherry Moun¬ 
tain road, a distance of thirty-two miles, affords a series of 
glorious views during the entire journey, enabling the trav-- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


133 


eler to avail himself of the extensive prospect from Randolph 
Hill, before mentioned, and a changing succession of pano¬ 
ramic pictures of the great range seen from this northern 
line of travel; especially is the view from the road in Jeffer¬ 
son one to be forever remembered, sweeping, as it does, a 
wide line of summits standing in a vast arc of circling maj¬ 
esty. At the point where the Waumbek House is located, at 
the base of Starr King Mountain (3,800 feet elevation) the 
finest view is had. At this house many halt for dinner, and 
for the enjoyment of the view from its piazzas. A path leads 
up the mountain from this house, and a prolonged stay can¬ 
not fail to be a pleasant one. In the valley fronting the hotel 
is the peculiar mound, sometimes called the “ Sleeping Gi¬ 
ant,” from a seeming resemblance to a giant human form 
lying upon his back. To the southwest, in clear weather, 
Mount Washington and the attendant peaks appear to be in 
near proximity. The Franconia range is to the west, and the 
Pilot Mountains to the north. This house is distant 17 miles 
from the Notch, 13 miles from the Fabyan Place, and 28 miles 
from the Profile. The route from this point to the Profile 
House is through the growing and enterprising town of White- 
field, and over the hills of Bethlehem. The road to the 
Crawford House or the Fabyan House is along the valley 
towards the source of Israel’s River, and the valley of the 
Ammonusuc, passing through the town of Carroll and along 
the base of Cherry Mountain (3,219 feet elevation), beauti¬ 
fully wooded to the summit, with the peak of “ Owl’s Head ” 
at its northern extremity. 


CHAPTER X. 


HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE. 


In sober matter-of-fact New England, the wild region of 
the mountains is peculiarly bare of that historical interest 
and legendary lore which has given to every crag and ravine 
of Scotland and Switzerland a name and fame in romance 
and story; the names, even, of the grandest peaks and 
gorges, excepting the few musical ones of Indian origin, lack 
the merest suggestion of romantic beauty. 

One Darby Field appears to have been the first white man 
who looked from the highest summit upon the wild and rug¬ 
ged country below. His story, like that of most early dis¬ 
coverers, was garnished with accounts of shining stones and 
riches in prospect. Vines and Gorges, magistrates of Sir 
Fernando Gorges, went thither in the fall of the same year, 
(1642), ascending the Saco in canoes; they appear to have 
climbed one of the highest summits and made report not re¬ 
markable for accuracy. An early chronicler lias described 
the country to the north of the principal summit as “ daunt¬ 
ing terrible, being full of rocky hills and clothed with in¬ 
finite thick woods,” and as a proof of his theory that the 
mountains were hollow, cites the “resounding of the rain” 
upon the rocky summits. The Great White Mountain Notch 
was discovered in 1791 by two hunters—Nash and Sawyer. 
In 1816, a party of scientific gentlemen made extensive bo¬ 
tanical collections, and determined altitudes. In 1820, the 
whole range was explored by a party from Lancaster, alti¬ 
tudes of the highest summits were established and the moun- 





NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


135 


tains received the names by which they have since been 
known. 

With the early settlement of this rugged and forbidding 
region the name of the Crawfords is inseparably connected, 
as opening the first ways of ascent to the mountain summits 
and preserving a thorough knowledge of the hills. The 
tragic story of the Willey family is told in preceding pages, 
and is, perhaps, so familiar as to need no repetition. The 
desolate experiences and hardships of the isolated pioneers 
whose names even are forgotten, who first established their 
rude homes in this rugged and forbidding land, die out with 
the grey heads of the venerable actors, but perseverence so 
marked and sufferings so unselfish should have been pre¬ 
served by the genius of some American Scott, or live in the 
songs of a Whittier, through the passing years. 

In climbing the highest summits, the tourist passes first 
through the dense woods around their bases, lessening in 
height and thinning to the hardier varieties as the path 
enters the region of dwarfed shrubs and clinging mosses, 
and, finally, emerges upon the bare and desolate rocks of the 
higher peaks bearing no mark of the action of the waves or 
of drift, clothed only with lichens, mosses, and such plants 
as are peculiar to Polar regions. Many of the lesser moun- 
'ains are beautifully wooded over their entire summ its. 

The mountains, in winter, present to the appreciative ob¬ 
server the rarest beauty. Until within the last few years few 
travelers have had the hardihood to inspect its scenery when 
clothed in the snowy mantle which veils the summits for so 
many months. For the last four winters parties have resided 
through the entire season upon the summit of Mount Wash¬ 
ington, in the interest of science, and have made valuable 
observations regarding the strength of the winds, the tem¬ 
perature and phenomena of these high altitudes, and wit¬ 
nessed the sublime and novel scenes presented from this 
elevation through the inclement months. 

Traces of the Indians once inhabiting the mountain region 
are frequently found near the rivers and the ponds—about 
Conway, Fryeburg and Ossipee their implements, mounds 


136 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


and encampments are seen, and their musical tongue is pre¬ 
served in the names of Chucorua, the Pemigewasset, Am- 
monusuc, Winnipesaukee, Androscoggin and other streams. 
They had the highest reverence for “ The Mountains of the 
Snowy Forehead,” by some called Waumbek Methna , “Moun¬ 
tains of the White Rock.” Among them, as with nearly all 
people, there was a legend of a deluge; one mighty and spot¬ 
less chief and his squaw being taken by a whirlwind to the 
crowning summit, while all others perished. It was com¬ 
monly believed among them that no intruders on these peer¬ 
less ’summits ever returned alive, and that the mighty ruler 
of the Pennacooks, while coming with messages from the 
Great Spirit, was borne to the happy hunting grounds in a 
chariot of flame. 

Of the family of Crawfords, so identified with White 
Mountain history, Abel Crawford was the pioneer, making a 
home on the “ Giants’ Grave,” now levelled in the grounds 
of the Fabyan House. The name is preserved in the naming 
of many localities, and a majestic mountain peak, while the 
descendants are a hardy and noble race. One of the ladies 
who courageously climbed to the summit of Mt. Washington 
during the past winter was a descendant of this family. 

Bare of historic interest and legendary charm, and want¬ 
ing in geological features of great peculiarity, these imperial 
hills by the simple majesty of their outlines and the bold 
combination of their masses, attract, each year, an army of 
tourists, surpassed only by the charms of Niagara. 


CHAPTER XI, 


\ 


NORTHWARD TO THE CANADAS. MONTREAL. 


Leaving Northumberland, by either day or night trains, 
(parlor cars), over the Grand Trunk Railway, North Stratford 
station is the point of departure for Colebrook and Dixville 
Notch, (regular stage lines connecting), and Island Pond 
is the point where through express trains stop for refresh¬ 
ments. 



The Island Pond House 

is connected with the depot by covered way and is well and 
favorably known as a dining station or place for longer stay; 
Bartlett & Stone are the proprietors. 

Sherbrooke — the station where the Passumpsic route 











138 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


unites with the Grand Trunk—is a thriving and important 
Canadian town, having manufacturing interests of impor¬ 
tance. 



The Sherbrooke House, 


W. Chamberlain, proprietor, is an old and well known 
first-class hotel, thoroughly refurnished and refitted where 
^you can be well cared for; and at the Continental, a new 
commodious and well managed hotel, P. A. Camirand, Esq., 
proprietor, guests will be faithfully cared for. From Sher¬ 
brooke the route is northward to 

Richmond, 

(Junction with the Quebec Division), thence westward 
through Durham, Acton, Upton, Brittania Mills, St. Hya- 
cinthe, Soirante, Belceil and St. Lambert, through the Vic¬ 
toria Bridge, to the great northern city of 

MONTREAL. 

Reaching this Canadian metropolis, by either of the ways 
of approach described under the heads of routes, your first 
question will, no doubt, be for a place at which to tarry dur¬ 
ing your stay. At the 





Montreal House 








































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































140 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


MONTREAL HOUSE, 

Custom House Square, Decker & Co., proprietors, recently 
remodeled and refitted throughout, you will find all the 
requisites for making your stay both comfortable and pleasant. 
Located in full view of the great Victoria Bridge, near the 
landing of the foreign steamers and river boats,and conveni¬ 
ent to all points of interest. Decker & Co., the proprietors, 
have had long experience in the keeping of first-class houses, 
and patrons will not be disappointed. Carriages furnished at 
the hotel for drives to all parts of the city and the surround¬ 
ings. The rooms are not surpassed by any hotel in the city, 
and no requisite of a first-class hotel will be found wanting. 
The large, airy rooms, healthful breeze from the river, sup¬ 
plemented by faithful attendance, and reasonable charges, 
will reccommend the house to your renewed patronage should 
you once make it your home. Space forbids mention of 
many other first-class houses of entertainment. 

This commercial and financial metropolis of the Can¬ 
adas is also the most populous of Canadian cities—some 140, 
000 souls. It is situated at the head of river navigation 
proper, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the 
Island of Montreal, which lies between the broad St. Law¬ 
rence and the rapid Ottawa—the two great rivers of the 
North. The island extends some thirty-two miles in length 
and ten in width, and is considered the garden of the Prov¬ 
inces. The surface is generally level, excepting the emin¬ 
ence of Mount Royal in the background, rising 550 feet above 
river level, and from which the city takes its name, Montreal 
being a shortening or modification of Mount Royal. 

The settlement of the town was determined upon by the 
first explorer, Jaques Cartier, in 1535, the site being that of 
the old Indian village of “ Plochelaga,” but the permanent 
founding of the city did not take place till 1642, and in one 
hundred years of growth it gathered a population of only 
4,000 souls; since then the growth has been rapid. 

It was under French rule till 1760, when it passed into the 
hands of the English. In 1775 Ethan Allen made his mad 
attack upon the city with a handful of men, and was defeated 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


141 


and captured; but shortly after, in the same year, Montgom¬ 
ery entered the city in triumph. The water communication 
with the city is said to be the most extensive of any city in 
the world so far inland. 

Here, as at Quebec, are the lower and the upper town, 
though not so plainly separated by unmistakable natural ele¬ 
vations as in the more northern capital. The lower town 
is somewhat cramped and gloomy in the laying out of the 
narrow streets and styles of the buildings in the old French 
order, while the upper town has wide streets and squares, 
with large, imposing structures, built mostly of the greyish 
limestone of the region. 

The broad quays of solid limestone are unsurpassed by any 
on the continent, and, to accommodate the growing com¬ 
merce of this thriving inland port, the docks and basins are 
continually being improved and enlarged. Vessels from all 
parts of the world lie at its wharves; ocean steamers of three 
thousand tons, and sailing vessels of twelve hundred tons can 
reach the city and be accommodated in the harbor. A wide 
terrace, faced with grey limestone, crowned on the parap et 
by a durable iron railing, divides the city from the river. 

VIEW OF THE CITY. 

Approached by the river, by steamer from Lachine, the 
sight presented to the stranger is one of rare interest and 
beauty; the glittering spires and great domes and towers 
combine in royal proportions; the enduring structures of cut 
stone stretch in a long line upon the river front. Mount 
Royal is in the background, and you pass beneath that great 
triumph of modern enterprise and engineering, 

THE VICTORIA BRIDGE, 

which serves the important purpose of giving uninterrupted 
rail communication between the Eastern States and Canadas 
and the Great West. It is used only for railway transit and 
gives to the Grand Trunk Railway full control of railway 
approaches from the East. This great work, sometimes 
classed as the eighth artificial wonder of the world, was com¬ 
pleted in 1860 , under the superintendence of Robert Stephen- 


142 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


son and his associates, and is one and a quarter miles in 
length, or two miles including the extensions. It is support¬ 
ed on twenty-four piers, the central span being three hundred 
and thirty feet, the remaining ones two hundred and forty- 
two feet, with massive abutments; the bridge tube is of iro n, 
twenty-two feet high by sixteen wide, slightly lessening at 
the ends. It was erected at a cost of $ 6,300,000. The height 
of the center span above ordinary river level is sixty feet. 
Three million cubic feet,of masonry and ten thousand tons of 
iron enter into the construction of the gigantic work. There 
is an opening in the center affording a magnificent river 
view. No railroad train is allowed to enter this bridge with¬ 
out a written permit from the proper officer, thus insuring 
exemption from collision or accident; the passage is some¬ 
what cheerless, occupying some six minutes, though seeming 
much longer to the passenger. By obtaining a permit, at the 
office of the Grand Trunk Railway, tourists can inspect a por¬ 
tion of the interior of the bridge. The river beneath the 
bridge has a swift current and the piers are calculated to with¬ 
stand immense pressure from descending masses of ice. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

Of massive buildings, combining show of strength and per¬ 
manence with architectural beauty, there is no lack in Mon¬ 
treal. On Great St. James street the Post office is a beauti¬ 
ful building of cut stone; adjoining, and of more elaborate 
architecture, is the Bank of British North America; on the 
same street is the building constructed of sandstone, and per¬ 
haps the finest in the city, known as Molson’s Bank, and the 
fine building in the Italian style, with an elaborately decorat¬ 
ed lecture room, known as the Mechanic’s Institute. 

On Notre Dame street, built in the Grecian, Ionic style, is 
the New Court House, of elegant proportions and material. 
The Old Government House is on the same street. 

The Nelson Monument, at the head of Jaques Cartier 
Square, is a column of grey limestone crowned with the fig¬ 
ure of the hero of Trafalgar. 

The Champ de Mars is the parade ground for the garrison 
regiments and volunteer soldiery; three thousand troops may 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 143 

be reviewed upon it, and it is a favorite promenade for citi¬ 
zens. Here the fine bands of the regiments often discourse 
sweet music during the summer evenings. Facing this square 
is the Geological Museum with its extensive collection of 
specimens. 

Viger Square, near the Champ de Mars, is beautifully laid 
out as a garden, with conservatory, fountains, etc. 

On St. Catherine street is the English Cathedral, the most 
perfect specimen of Gothic architecture in America, sur¬ 
rounded by a cluster of lofty spires. 

Bonsecours Market is a magnificent edifice, the dome of 
which attracts attention as you land from the boat. The up¬ 
per stories contain the city offices, a magnificent hall or con¬ 
cert room which will seat 4,000 persons, and the rooms of the 
City Council most elegantly ornamented and arranged. The 
location is at the corner of Water and St. Paul streets. 

The McGill College, so called from Hon. James McGill, 
who liberally endowed the institution, has extensive build¬ 
ings and museum. 

St. Patrick’s Hall was a fine building on Victoria square, 
but was destroyed by fire in 1872. The dry goods and hard¬ 
ware trade centres are on St. Paul street, which presents a 
fine line of warehouses. But the great centre of interest, for 
strangers is the French 

CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME, 

reputed to be the largest church edifice in North America, 
holding within its walls 10,000. The building is two hundred 
and sixty feet long by one hundred and forty feet broad, and 
the two massive towers, flanking the front upon the square, 
rise two hundred and twenty feet. There is a famous peal of 
bells in the left tower, one of which is the famous “Gros 
Bourdon,” weighing fifteen tons and having a deep bass into¬ 
nation. The prospect from the right tower, which can be 
ascended by payment of a slight fee, is wonderfully wide, 
looking out upon the broad waters, the islands and shipping 
of the St. Lawrence, the rapids of Lachine, the distant Ver¬ 
mont hills and the suburban villages. The Seminary of St. 
Sulpice adjoins the Cathedral and is surrounded by spacious 


144 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


gardens and court yards. In near vicinity, around this fine 
square, are the noble buildings of the important Banking and 
Insurance Companies of the Dominion. 

DRIVES. 

The Canadian carriage is kept with scrupulous neatness, 
the drivers are your willing and obliging servants, knowing 
every inch of the routes by which they convey you, and the 
prices, unlike American coaching fares, do not spoil the fair¬ 
est prospects by threatening total ruin to your finances. A 
vehicle drawn by two horses may be had at a charge of one 
dollar for first hour, and seventy-five cents for additional 
hours; for carriage with one horse for one or two persons, 
fifty cents first hour, and forty cents for additional hours is 
about the usual charge; and, for trips to the suburbs, charges 
vary with the number of the party and distance. Carriages 
will be found at the railway station, and the tourist can pro¬ 
ceed immediately on his ride through the city if pressed for 
time. 

The drive of nine miles around the mountain, visiting the 
Mount Royal Cemetery, two miles from the city, on the 
northern slope of Mount Royal, approached by a broad av¬ 
enue, and of itself well worth a visit, is a trip which should 
by no means be omitted, affording as it does commanding and 
attractive views of the Canadian metropolis and the^ great 
river of the North, which no lover of the beautiful and the 
grand in landscape should fail to enjoy. 

The views obtained from the Water Works Reservoir, a 
mile from the city, cut in the ^solid rock, are extensive and 
interesting. A drive down the river bank to Lougue Point 
is in great favor with the people of the city, and will prove 
of interest to visitors. 

The drive which, perhaps, will prove of greatest interest, 
is that of nine miles to the village of Lachine. The Lachine 
road leads along the banks of the St. Lawrence, and during 
this drive, by selecting the proper time, the descent of the 
steamer through the Rapids may be witnessed. The Rapids, 
below Lachine, have a fall of forty-foui' and a half feet, and 
the descent of these by steamer is one of the sensations of 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


145 


your visit. Every morning (in summer) a train leaves the 
railroad station on Bonaventure street, at 7 o’clock a.m., for 
Lachine, connecting with the small steamer at the railroad 
wharf, for the trip down the Rapids. Caughnawaga, the In¬ 
dian village opposite, is the point from which Baptiste, the 
renowned Indian pilot, comes out in his bark canoe to pilot 
the boats of the Canadian Navigation Company through the 
Rapids. These Rapids offer the greatest obstacle to naviga¬ 
tion of any on the river, and that immense work, the Lachine 
Canal, eight and one-half miles in length, was constructed to 
avoid this obstruction. Improvements about to be made will 
enable all descending steam craft to keep the river, leaving 
the canals exclusively to sailing vessels and ascending boats. 

The morning trip to Lachine, with the return by steamer 
through the Rapids, and beneath the largest and most noted 
bridge in the world, giving the favorite view of the city, and 
landing you again at the wharf by 9 o’clock A.M., will prove 
a wonderful appetizer and a lasting pleasure. 

DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

From Montreal to Quebec passage may be made, during 
the season of navigation—usually from April to December— 
on one of the staunch and commodious steamers owned by 
the Richelieu Company, and called the “Montreal” and the 
“ Quebec.” Leaving Montreal in the evening, (excepting 
Sunday evening,) passing the fort on the island in the harbor, 
leaving Longueil to the right, and passing the group of 
islands below the city and the mouth of the Ottawa river, 
you are fairly on the way to the old capital. Belceil Moun¬ 
tain attracts attention to the eastward, and you cannot fail to 
be interested in the general appearence of the novel land¬ 
scape, a sort of “ Northern Holland,” appearing in many in¬ 
stances from the boat to be below water level; jin other 
places, as you progress, the shores slope in ter^ces, or wide 
steps, terminating in a ridge. 

Sorel or William Henry, forty-five miles below Mon¬ 
treal is the first station where a halt is made by the steamer. 
This Canadian town is built around a central square at the 
confluence of the St. Johns (otherwise known as the Rich- 


146 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


elieu or Sorel river) and the St. Lawrence. The St. John’s 
or Richelieu River is peculiar in the fact that, at its outlet, 
it is narrower than at its source or through its course, being 
the northern outlet of Lake Champlain. There is immense 
transportation of lumber along its course. 

Some fifty miles below Montreal, and five miles below Sor¬ 
el, the broad river expands into a wide lake nearly twenty- 
five miles in length, and (at its widest) nine miles width, 
known as “ Lake St. Peter,” and interspersed with islands at 
its upper entrance; though the wide expansion produces a 
shallow depth, the channel followed by shipping admits the 
passage of vessels of the larger class. The River St. Francis 
here enters the lake from the south. 

The scenery along the route may not prove of sufficient 
variety and interest to keep the traveler from needed rest 
through the long night hours, though the mighty river, 
draining through the lakes that immense valley, will never 
be without its suggestions of power; and, when the moon, 
breaking from rolling curtains of cloud, tints the broad ex¬ 
panse, till it glitters like a vast surface of silver sparkling 
with diamond points of light, which fade and renew in the 
wake of the dancing silver waves which mark your progress, 
the wakeful traveler will find no lack of suggestive sights in 
his midnight watch. 

A great amount of shipping of every class will be passed, 
and immense timber rafts will be observed in the descent, 
floating down to the great lumber mart at Quebec, some¬ 
times' in single rafts and sometimes in many combined in a 
floating timber town, populous With hardy lumbermen, 
whose songs enliven the monotony of their voyage. 

The town of “ Three Rivers,” midway between Montreal 
and Quebec,is one of the oldest settlements in Canada,and has 
convent buildings and church edifices of considerable archi¬ 
tectural pretensions. The town was first settled in 1618, and 
has a population of nearly 6,000 souls. The River St. Mau¬ 
rice here joins the St. Lawrence and is divided at its mouth 
by islands into three distinct channels, (hence the name of 
the town “ Three Rivers.”) Immense quantities of logs and 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


147 


manufactured lumber come down the St. Maurice, to this 
lumber centre, where are located several extensive saw mills 
and foundries. A branch of the Grand Trunk Railway di¬ 
verging from the Quebec division at Arthabaska has its ter¬ 
minus at Doucet’s Landing opposite this point. 

A canoe voyage up the St. Maurice for thirty miles to the 
“ Falls of the Shawenegan ” is sometimes made. Just above 
the mouth of the Shawenegan river the broad stream plunges 
in a sheer descent of one hundred and lifty feet—a natural 
wonder, which, if easily reached, would be one of the chief 
attractions of Canadian travel. 

Some fifty miles before reaching Quebec the rapids of Rich- 
' elieu, where the river contracts into narrow space, and the 
current flows over a rocky bed, was, in the olden time, con¬ 
sidered quite an impediment to navigation; below these rap¬ 
ids the banks become gradually elevated. From the red 
banks of Cape Rouge (seven miles above Quebec), the shores 
of the river rise into hills and precipices. The Chaudiere 
River enters six miles above the city, the precipitous banks 
increase in height and the eager stranger catches a distant 
view of the towers and battlements of the grand old north¬ 
ern city. 

Before reaching the town, “ Wolfe’s Cove ” will he point¬ 
ed out to the left—that memorable spot where the.brave 
commander landed his forces under cover of darkness, and, 
scaling the precipice, fought the memorable battle which 
changed the destiny of the western empire. The round Mar- 
tello Towers, in advance of the defences of the city, on the 
plains of Abraham, first attract attention, and you sweep in 
full view of the defiant battlements and towers which crown 
the natural walls of Old Quebec—the seat of ancient domin¬ 
ion—where jealous nations contended for supremacy and 
shook its rocky throne with the roar and clash of contending 
armies. As you approach the point of landing, the grim bat¬ 
tlements of the city are upon the left; the growing settlement 
of Point Levi, the railway terminus at this point, is to the 
right, the fair island of Orleans is just below you, while 
about you, in one of the grandest inland harbors of the world, 


148 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


capable of floating at the same time one hundred ships of the 
line, are vessels of every class; the largest ever constructed 
can float under the very walls of the citadel. 

MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, BY RAIL. 

Those who prefer the rail route to a night trip by boat can 
leave the station, Bonaventure street, pass through the “Vic¬ 
toria Bridge,” before described, through St. Lambert’s, Bel- 
oeil, St. Hillaire, St. Hyacinthe with its extensive nunneries 
and church buildings, Brittania Mills, Upton, and New Dur¬ 
ham, to Richmond Junction, seventy-six miles from Mon¬ 
treal, where cars are taken over the Quebec division, ninety- 
five miles, to Quebec. Along this line the scenery will be 
somewhat bare of interest to a majority of travelers, and, in 
a sleeping car, the traveler may perhaps with great propriety 
take his ease and gather strength for his tour of Quebec. 
The stations are Danville, Warwick, Arthabaska (branch 
from this point to Three Rivers), Stanfold, Somerset, Becan- 
cour, Lyster, Methot’s Mills, Black River, Craig’s Road, 
Chaudiere Junction and Point Levi, (the Quebec station.) 
The country passed through on this line has a sameness of 
aspect, and the stations are not points of particular impor¬ 
tance other than as freight and trade centres for the adjacent 
country. A railway along the north shore of the St. Law¬ 
rence is projected to unite the two great Canadian cities', but 
its early construction is not assured. You cross from Point 
Levi by ferry, encircled with points or objects of interest on 
either bank, on the island below and upon the surface of the 
broad harbor, and are landed beneath the frowning walls of 
the grand old city of the North, fully described in the follow¬ 
ing chapter. 


City of Quebec. 


CHAPTER XII 




QUEBEC. 


THE WALLED CITY OF THE NORTH. 
















































































































































































































150 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


On your arrival in Quebec, your inquiry for a first-class 
hotel will be answered by your being directed to that long 
known and popular house, the 



St. Louis Hotel, 

on St. Louis street, Willis Russell, proprietor. 

This is a long established and favorite house, complete in 
all its arrangements, efficient and liberal in its management, 
affording to its guests all wished for accommodations. The 
location is central, near the delightful and fashionable prom¬ 
enades and terraces of this grand old city. The manage¬ 
ment is the best, and substantial plenty and commendable 
neatness in every department are characteristics of the house. 
The accommodations are for five hundred guests, and, with 
the recent enlargements and improvements, the most exact¬ 
ing cannot fail of satisfaction. Carriages at reasonable rates 
for the tour of the city and surroundings may be had at the 
hotel, and valuable information regarding the attractions 
within and around the city. 

THE RUSSELL HOUSE, 

corner of Ann and Garden streets, is kept as an auxiliary of 
the St. Louis, and offers especial accommodations to com¬ 
mercial travelers, business men, and all others who may tem¬ 
porarily or permanently locate here. 





NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


151 



Russell House. 

Quebec was the capital of French dominion in America— 
the western Gibralter and key to the great St. Lawrence val¬ 
ley. When approached by rail the city is seen in the first 
promise of its unique beauty from Point Levi. From the 
ferry passage, or by the river approach from above or below, 
the view is no less beautiful and novel. The upper and lower 
town are here no imaginary divisions, but separate and dis¬ 
tinct, the former crowning the lofty promontory of Cape 
Diamond, with its line of massive fortifications, and contain¬ 
ing the fine residences and public buildings, is the quarter of 
fashion; the latter extends along the narrow strip of land 
beneath the cliffs and under the overhanging walls to the 
suburb of St. Roche. St. Peter street is the principal street 
of this section, and along its line and branches and upon the 
wharves, the banks, insurance companies, offices of mer¬ 
chants and the smaller hotels are located. The city is one of 
the largest lumber ports on the continent, the great rafts of 
timber lying by acres along the river banks and in the coves. 
The city is supplied with water from Lake St. Charles, nine 
miles distant, above the falls of Lorette. 

GENERAL VIEW OF THE CITY. 

No city on the continent so impresses the tourist, by the 
startling peculiarities of the site and the novelty of its gen¬ 
eral aspect, as this “ ancient capital,” or stamps its impress 








152 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


so indelibly in eye and memory. It was founded by Samuel 
de Champlain, the French geographer, in 1608, on the site 
of the Indian village of “ Stadicona,” at the confluence of 
the St. Lawrence and St. Charles rivers, three hundred and 
sixty miles from the mouth of the St. Lawrence, and one hun¬ 
dred and eighty miles below Montreal. It is said, with show 
of truth, that the line of many of the streets follows the old 
footpaths of the Indian village. 

The view from the ramparts and terraces of the upper 
town looks down upon a curious scene of activity upon the 
wide wooden quays and winding, narrow streets of the lower 
town, crowded with vehicles and the busy populace, dwarfed 
to liliputian proportions as viewed from the height, while 
you look into blackened throats of the chimneys and upon 
the moss-grown roofs of the time-browned buildings. 

A massive wall of hewn stone, of nearly three miles in 
length, and of varying, but everywhere forbidding height and 
thickness, with projecting bastions and frowning cannon, 
communicating with the outward world by five massive gates, 
encloses the better portion of the upper town. Prescott gate, 
by which you enter the walls from the landing, has been or 
is to be demolished, on account of impeding travel. This 
gate, and Palace and Hope gates, communicate with the low¬ 
er town; St. Louis gate with the suburbs in the direction of 
the plains of Abraham; St. John’s gate with the suburbs of 
St. Roche and Beauport, and is the gate through which you 
pass in the drive to Montmorenci. The principal street of 
the lower town is St. Peter street. In the upper town St. 
Louis street and St. John street communicate with the gates 
of same name, and are the main avenues of union with the 
suburbs. The St. Foy and St. Louis roads are the principal 
outside ways of travel, and are lined with the residences of 
the gentry. Driving out through St. John’s gate over the St. 
Foy road, and returning by the St. Louis road, you pass a net 
work of country seats, each enclosing grounds of wide ex¬ 
tent; noble old manor houses, surrounded with luxuriant 
forest trees; elegant mansions and spacious cottages, shaded 
avenues, wide views, and numerous points made historical 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


153 


by the remarkable and tragic events which have enwrapped 
with historic interest nearly every rood of soil in and about 
this wonderful city, where the rival nations of the earth con¬ 
tended for western supremacy, and the pioneers of civiliza¬ 
tion and heroes in warfare won deathless names for courage 
and daring. Mount Hermon Cemetery, beautifully laid out, 
enclosing thirty-two acres, is three miles out on the St. Louis 
road. 

The form of the Gity is that of a triangle, the base towards 
the Plains of Abraham, and the St. Lawrence and St. Charles 
upon either side. In and about it all seems distinctively 
quaint, curious and old, giving the impression that you have 
in some way been set back a century in the path of progress, 
and are looking upon scenes of long ago. The harbor is the 
noblest on inland waters. A fleet of the largest vessels ever 
constructed can manoeuvre in its waters, and craft of every 
description, from the ocean steamship and monster merch¬ 
antman to the shell-like canoe and tiny sail boat, are found 
upon its waters. 

THE CITADEL 

will, perhaps, prove the point of greatest interest to many, 
from the historic associations connected therewith, and from 
the fact that, judged by the older systems of gunnery and de¬ 
fence, it was considered an impregnable fortress. It covers 
some forty acres of enclosed area, and is some three hundred 
and forty feet above the river level. A few years ago a loos¬ 
ened rock fell from this frowning wall into the street below, 
causing the loss of five lives and the destruction of dwellings. 
The zigzag passage through which you enter the fortress, be¬ 
tween high and massive granite walls, is swept at every turn 
by formidable batteries of heavy guns. Within are the slight¬ 
ly rising parade ground, the bomb-proof quarters, storehouses 
and hospital buildings, the numerous magazines, implements, 
stores, guns of every calibre, supplies and ammunition, and 
the various combinations and material for defence, which 
your military attendant can best describe, and the inspection 
of which can but prove of lasting interest to all visitors. On 
the forbidding river walls, and at each angle or possible com- 


154 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


manding point, gnns of heavy calibre sweep every avenue of 
approach by the river; ditches, breastworks and frowning 
batteries command the approaches by land from the famed 
“ Plains of Abraham.” The precipitous bluffs, rising almost 
perpendicularly from the river, three hundred and forty feet, 
present a natural barrier which may be swept with murder¬ 
ous fire, and the covered ways of approach and retreat, the 
various kinds and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers and 
munitions of war will be viewed with eager interest. 

The wide outlook from the river wall of the citadel will 
also enchain the attention of the visitor who is fortunate 
enough to look, in the soft light of the declining sun, upon 
the bold promontories, smiling fields, picturesque villages, 
glittering roofs and spires, wide, tranquil waters and distant 
plains and forests which combine in the wide and charming 
landscape. 

Across the river the view is directly upon the settlement of 
Point Levi, where, in 1775, the little army of Arnold rendez¬ 
voused, after that memorable march through the wilderness, 
and, made the mad attempt to dislodge the English forces 
within the city. Modern fortifications of great strength are 
being erected at this point. The identical spot where the 
brave Montgomery fell, in a winding sheet of snow in the 
cold December storm, is pointed out to you from the citadel 
walls, and, in your ride about the city, the low-roofed build¬ 
ing to which his remains were conveyed will be pointed out, 
as also the street where Arnold’s forces were defeated and 
captured. Looking down the river the Island of Orleans, 
nineteen miles long and five and a half miles wide, swells in 
flowing curves from the river—a fruitful, populous and beau¬ 
tiful land. 

To the west you look upon the Plains of Abraham and the 
brink of the precipitous bluffs scaled by the dauntless Wolfe 
and his brave soldiery in that memorable surprise and victo¬ 
ry in 1759, immediately following the humiliating defeat at 
Montmorenci. Upon the spot where the brave commander 
fell, a granite shaft briefly tells the story of his victory and 
death, at the early age of thirty-three years. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


155 


DRIVES. 

There would seem to be no end to the points of interest to 
which the tourist may be taken in and around this ancient 
city, but one of the principal, and often the first, is the eight 
mile drive through St. John’s gate, over an excellent, paved 
road, supported by tolls, through the suburb of St. Roche and 
Beauport, to the falls at the mouth of the small but rapid 
Montmorenci River, known as the 



As you cross the St. Charles River, in leaving the city, the 
vessels in process of construction attract attention. In the 







































156 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


building of substantial and durable vessels Quebec has gained 
enviable fame. 

The scene along this drive is entirely French, the women 
perform the labor in the gardens and are seen going to and 
returning from market, in the odd market wagons drawn by 
Canadian ponies. The conversation of the native is in 
French. 

A few miles out you will be shown the unique and ancient 
cottage, where Montcalm had his headquarters at the time of 
the celebrated battle with Wolfe, and near which was fought 
the first and unsuccessful battle for the possession of the key 
to the Canadas. It is allowed to remain in its ancient con¬ 
dition, and is eagerly viewed by the thousands who pass it 
during the season of summer travel. 

On either side of the road from this point, in close proxim¬ 
ity to the street, are the quaint little Canadian cottages set at 
every imaginable angle with the road, white as the snow, in 
their summer coating of whitewash, with steep roofs, odd 
stone chimneys, and out-door ovens, all with a look of neat¬ 
ness and thrift. We do not remember seeing even an ap¬ 
proach to the squalid or filthy in the whole line of humble 
cottages. Reaching the little Montmorenci River you look 
about you on historic ground, for here was fought the unsuc¬ 
cessful and nearly disastrous battle of Montmorenci, which 
immediately preceded Wolfe’s final victory on the Plains of 
Abraham. 

Registering .your name at a little hotel, the landlady of 
which is entirely competent to the management of the estab¬ 
lishment, and paying the small fee exacted as owners or 
lessees of the land through which you pass, you follow a path 
through the fields around a cove of the St. Lawrence, and 
look across the intervening gulf upon the beautiful fall of the 
Montmorenci, two hundred and forty feet descent, into the 
St. Lawrence, over the almost perpendicular wall of the 
bluff. 

If you have come expecting to look upon a mighty cata¬ 
ract, falling with deafening roar and mighty force along 
trembling descents, you will be disappointed; but if a deli- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


157 


cate ribbon of snowy whiteness, rolling over the bluff and 
melting into the waters below, appearing as white, pure 
and gossamer-like as the folds of a bridal veil, has charms 
for you, then this delicate leap of the feathery foam over the 
worn rocks of the almost perpendicular bluff, will live in 
your memory a rare scene of picturesque and dreamy beauty. 
The width of the main stream is about fifty feet, widening at 
high water to sixty or seventy feet. On either side of the 
main descent small streams creep down the seams of the 
rocky wall in serpentine lines of white or silvery brightness. 
Another view is to approach directly to the brink of the fall, 
descend a flight of steps built down the steep wall of rock, 
and stand where the spray and foam rush past you into the 
white mass below. 

On either side of the fall stand the towers of the Suspen¬ 
sion Bridge, erected several years ago, and which, from some 
imperfection, gave way, precipitating a laborer and his fam¬ 
ily, who were crossing in a rude cart at the time, into the 
seething mass below. The bridge was never rebuilt, and the 
towers stand solitary upon the banks. 

The falls are a favorite place of resort in winter for the 
Canadians, the spray freezing in a huge icy cone, down which 
a daring coasting feat is performed, known in local phrase as 
“ tobogging.” The “ Natural Steps,” three quarters of a mile 
above the falls, extend for half a mile along the limestone 
banks of the river, and have the regularity of the work of 
human skill. 

Returning to the city by the same, or a different route, you 
will be interested by the view presented from the different 
points. The tin roofs of the larger buildings and spires of the 
churches here, as at Montreal, St. Hyacinthe and the larger 
villages, preserve all their dazzling brilliancy, and, as the 
sun falls upon the domes, spires and roofs of the city, it needs 
no poetical imagination to remind you of the brilliant pictures 
of oriental cities. How this lasting brightness is retained, 
whether by the peculiarity of climate or non-corrosive quality 
of the metal, we have not seen explained. Once more with¬ 
in the city 


158 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


DURHAM TERRACE, 

widely famed as affording a view, considered by many as 
second to none in the world, obtained from within settled 
town limits, will detain you for a time as you overlook the 
broad landscape spread below and described in the outlook 
from the citadel walls. 

THE GOVERNOR’S GARDEN, 

or garden of the fortress, is a point of interest chiefly for the 
monument (65 feet in height), erected to the memory of 
those two brave commanders, Wolfe and Montcalm, who, 
though in life brought in deadly enmity, are united in the 
memories and honors of the future. 

The Grand Battery, the Esplanade, the English Cathedral, 
the Ursuline Convent, founded early in the seventeenth cen¬ 
tury, with its fine paintings, the University of Quebec, the 
Jail and Quebec Music Hall, with the Custom House and 
Exchange in the lower town, and the ship yards, river docks, 
and manufactories on the St. Charles river, will repay a visit 
if your stay admits. 

LAVAL UNIVERSITY 

was established under Catholic auspices, but is open to stu¬ 
dents of all creeds and nations, and a visit thereto is of great 
interest to people of culture. In the provision of apparatus 
and diagrams, and in securing the highest talent in its 
instructors in the wide range of sciences which the student 
may study with best assistance, and in facilities afforded to 
acquire superior instruction in the learned professions, this 
institution is probably second to none in the States or Can¬ 
adas. The laboratories; lecture rooms, cabinets and library 
are superior in accommodation and unusual in extent. In 
the Seminary Chapel, attached to this University, are the 
celebrated paintings by Champagne and others, and in the 
French Cathedral are fine productions of Vandyke and 
others, and the interior of this old church is of rare beauty. 

THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM 

will receive an early visit, invested as they are with historic 
interest and tragic legends, which lapse of time seems only 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


159 


to heighten and intensify — the scene of the most daring 
military manoeuvres and signal victory of the time. On the 
spot where Wolfe fell, on this noted plain, is seen the modest 
monument to his memory, and the distance to the path by 
which the famed ascent of his army was made is not great. 
It is somewhat shorn of its rugged character by the leveling 
effects of time and the elements, but is still precipitous and 
forbidding. 

ISLE OF ORLEANS. 

Do not omit, during your stay, to cross, by the ferry boat, 
to this fair island, and take the drive around it, which offers 
that continuous and varying circuit of outlying scenery which 
you can ill afford to miss, including views of the Falls of 
Montmorenci, the Laurentian Mountains, Cap-Tourment, 
(1,100 feet in height), the villages upon either side in pictur¬ 
esque surroundings, and the beauty of the fair isle itself, with 
the broad encircling river and the craft upon its bosom, and 
the grand old city of the north in the distance—all memora¬ 
ble points in the history of the olden times. 

CHAUDIERE FALLS, 

visited via Point Levi, on the river of the same name, nine 
miles below Quebec, have a descent of one hundred and 
thirty feet,the river being four hundred feet wide at this point. 

FISHING. 

Those making Quebec their headquarters foi; excursions 
for sporting, can easily reach, by steamer down the river, in 
the branches of the St. Lawrence, or in the Lakes at no great 
distance from the city, unequalled opportunity for the exer¬ 
cise of their skill, with sure promise’ of reward. 


THE 


St. Lawrence ant Saguenay Line of Steamers 

PLYING BETWEEN 

QUEBEC, THE RIVER SAGUENAY and the 
WATERING PLACES of the Lower 
St. Lawrence, 

Is composed of the First Class Sea-Going Passenger Steamers, “-SAGUENAY,’' 
“ST. LAWRENCE,” and “UNION.” 


From about the 20th of June to the 10th of September, one of the above 
Steamers will leave the St. Andrew’s wharf daily (Sundays and Mondays excepted) 
at seven o’clock, A.M.—on the arrival of the Montreal boat. 

^AccommodHtion, First Class, 

Charges Moderate. 

Tickets for sale at all principal Ticket Offices in the States and Canada, and at 
the Office of the Company, St Andrew’s wharf, Quebec. 

For further information, apply to 

A. GABOURY, 

Secretary. 


TABLE OF DISTANCES 


ON THE 





03 











S3 k* 

i 







„ . 



a! 

^pq 

a> • 

— < GO 

a 

t>, . 

£3 






Quebec, 

0 

n 

o ^ 
-o 2 

w a 

g >> 

£ a 
a pq 


«8 





St. Paul’s Bay, 

55 

55 


H 

.a o 
> i-l 

d 

a 

d 

c3 

pq 



Eboulements, 

11 

11 

66 


• >— 4 

Ph 

o 

o 

CO 

S 

— 



Murray Bay, 

16 

27 

16 

82 


a 

O 

o 

-a 

c3 

a 

a 


Riviere du Loup, 

30 

57 

46 

30 

112 


c3 

H 



• H 

Cacouna, passengers 
land at R. du Loup 


63 

52 

36 

6 

118 


c3 

a 

o 

o 

CO 

a 

Tadousac, 

22 

79 

68 

52 

22 

28 

134 


la 

O 

a 

Ha! Ha! Bay, 

72 

151 

140 

124 

94 

100 

72 

206 

Ph 

Chicoutimi, 

28 

179 

168 

152 

122 

128 

100 

28 

234 

Rimouski, 


23 

112 

96 

66 





178 


Note.— The distance of any place in above table, from Quebec, 
will be found at the head of the column under its name. The 
distance between other points is found by taking the name of one 
place in left hand column and following the line to its intersection 
with the other name required. 
















Take th e Montreal and Boston Air Line, which is the Great Northern Tourist 

I \ 71 Lon.cr. - - - -----—————— _ : =^—— 1 —■■—— ^ 



and Pleasure Travel Route ! 

PASSI 1ST Gr 

Lake Winnipesaukee, 


THE 




AND OTHER 

MAGNIFICENT SCENERY! 

15 Y DAYLIGHT FOIi 

Montreal & Quebec. 

This Office is the Headquarters of the 

SiGOfelY LINE Of STEAMERS 


IN BO SCO X. 


[pgr* The Ticket Seller in this office has had 
six year* experience in Canada with American 
Pleasure Travel; has been to all points of interest 
throughout the country, and will be able to give 
the most reliable information. 

Beforii selecting your route call at the 

General Office, 94 Washington St. 


G. LEVE, 

Pass. Agent. 


LEVE & CLARK, 

Ticket Agents. 





































































































































CHAPTER XIII. 


From Quebec to the Saguenay, and Scenery of the 
Saguenay. 


The tourist, in search of health or pleasure, cannot possibly 
select any route better calculated to meet all his expectations, 
and to present that peculiar and unusual combination, no¬ 
where else found, within limits easily reached, than the one 
here described 

Leaving Quebec by one of the excellent boats named on 
preceding page, the journey is down the finest portion of the 
grand St. Lawrence, a distance of about one hundred and fif¬ 
ty miles, the great river, In many places, being thirty miles 
in width. 

This water area, of four thousand square miles, is dotted 
with beautiful islands; skirted on the one hand by towns and 
villages, on the other by lofty mountains, and both sides con¬ 
stantly in view, making the line of approach one of contin¬ 
ued charm. 

On the way down the River, the mouth of the river St. 
Anne will be passed, oft’ the lower extremity of the Island of 
Orleans. This river enters the larger stream through a bold 
ravine, and many ascend the stream for a short distance to 
the Falls of St. Anne, which, with the surroundings^ are pleas¬ 
ing and attractive. 

Thirty-six miles below Quebec is a group of six small isl- 
lands, alive with geese, ducks and teal, who make this a 
breeding place. 

The Quarantine Station at “ Grosse Isle” deserves a pass- 




162 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


ing notice—a lovely spot of itself, quietly sleeping in the great 
river, but a very charnel house in the past, receiving, in the 
time of the famine in Ireland, six thousand emigrants in one 
huge grave. 

The river widens broader and broader as you sail on, as 
upon a vast inland sea, losing sight of either shore. Malbaie, 
ninety miles below Quebec on the north shore, is a halting 
station and place of pleasure resort, Murray Bay being a fash¬ 
ionable watering place, and the fine fishing in Murray River 
much patronized. The river here is about twenty miles wide 
with tides of nearly 20 ft. rise. Steaming across to “ Riviere 
du Loup,” on the south shore, passengers are landed within 
six miles of Cacouna, where are hotel accommodations of the 
first class, and facilities for enjoyment either of luxurious 
ease or active sporting. 

Continuing down the St. Lawrence, on the northern shore, 
Tadousac is reached at the mouth of 



Tadousac Bay, 
































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


163 


that vast and mysterious rock gorge, through which pour, 
the unfathomable floods of the mountain-shadowed 
SAGUENAY RIVER, 

the largest affluent of the St. Lawrence, having its source 
in Lake St. John, and a straight course of one hundred and 
thirty miles from the lake to the St. Lawrence. The upper 
half of its course is a series of falls and rapids, navigable only 
by canoes, and flowing through a dense and almost unknown 
wilderness. 

The navigable portion of the river will float the largest 
vessels of the world, from its mouth some ninety miles to 
the head of navigation, and has been described as a perfectly 
straight, yawning gulf, torn for the whole distance in the 
grey mica schist rising on either hand in precipitous cliffs 
whose Jbases rest in unknown depths—a panorama of rocky 
walls and precipices—“ no sheltered nooks nor coves, no fer¬ 
tile beaches—nowhere a margin for foot to rest upon.” The 
continuous ridges on either hand rise to an elevation of 1,000 
to 1,500 feet, and often more. The wonderful capes — 



Cape Trinity, 































164 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Eternity and Trinity rear their heads to an altitude of 
eighteen hundred feet, and, at their base, the river has a depth 
of 600 fathoms. This whole route is traversed by daylight; the 
boats are, in all respects, first-class, and nothing is wanting 
to secure the comfort of passengers, as promised in the 
advertised route. (See adv.,) 

The largest ships may ride in the immense depth of these 
waters. The sights are never to be forgotten—bold, barren, 
forbidding and awful. The discharge of a cannon on ship¬ 
board between the bare walls of rock, is said to crash back 
in-echoes which no one could wish to have repeated, one such 
sensation sufficing for a lifetime. 

The scenery is aptly spoken of by a writer as “ a region of 
primeval grandeur, where art has done nothing and^nature 
everything; where, at a single bound, civilization is left 
behind, and nature stands in unadorned majesty; where Alps 
on Alps arise; where, over unfathomable depths, through 
mountain gorges, the steamer ploughs the dark flood on 
which no sign of animal life appears.” 


























NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


165 


Ha-Ha Bay, a quiet and lovely bay receding from the 
river several miles, a cheerful village, animal life, and facili¬ 
ties for amusement are here found, a change most welcome 
from the sombre desolation of the ascent. Lake St. John, in 
which the river has its soitrce, receives the flow of eleven 
large rivers, and innumerable smaller streams, from the vast 
water-shed and interminable forests surrounding it, but dis¬ 
charges all its waters by this wonderful stream through miles 
of wild and unnavigable floods. 

Statue Point and Les Tableux are noted gems of scenery 
on the river, a perpendicular rock below Ha-Ha Bay, at the 
termination of a great plateau, three hundred feet wide and 
six hundred feet in hight. The village of Chicoutimi is at the 
outlet of Lake Kenokami, with the Saguenay. It is at the 
head of navigation. An extensive lumber business is trans¬ 
acted here; the village is ancient and has about five hundred 
inhabitants. 

Tadousac, 

at the mouth of the Saguenay, has a fine hotel which is 
excellently kept, and, in connection, all kinds of amusements 
for visitors. The bathing is very superior. It is a post of 
the Hudson Bay Company, who have establishments here of 
considerable importance. Here was the residence of Pore 
Marquette, who explored the Mississippi valley. The vener¬ 
able church is two and a.half centuries old. This was one of 
the first places on the river fortified by the French. The first 
permanent stone building erected, at any northern locality on 
the continent, was here built. 

We are not competent to write of this desolately grand and 
awfully majestic region with the intelligent criticism of the 
scientific, or the enthusiasm of the geologist. Ere long, 
some one, equal to the task, will explore its grandly dismal 
reaches, bringing to bear upon its wonderful characteristics 
the light of science, while, by a wild and nomadic life, in that 
unexplored continent around and beyond its sources, a 
volume of travel shall result, more interesting in its revela¬ 
tions of northern wonders than are the charming works of 



Point L’Ieet, Tadousac. 



Mouth of Sagueney and Pt. 


Maug unite, 


Tadousac. 

































































































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


167 


Da Challiu or the mysterious journeys of the lamented 
Livingston, in other and more distant lands. 

Few realize the vastness of that wild and almost limitless 
north, stretching from habitable limits up to the icy realms 
of the polar regions, yet to be made familiar by exploration 
and charming narrative, and to which, one of these grandest 
passages will be the forbidding pass through which the inky 
floods of the unmeasured Saguenay find outlet to the sea. 

Salmon fishing in the tributaries of the Saguenay is the 
favorite sport of visitors—the salmon and the seal are almost 
the only living denizens of the solitary stream. 

From this trip the tourist will return with the feeling that 
he has looked upon an aspect of nature more novel than any 
other upon the continent—a vast landscape and water course 
in the rough, with all the touches of beauty and elaborations 
of animated nature left out—a creation vast and grand but 
incomplete—a chaos of forms and material—the skeleton 
ribs and bones of a highland region, left bare and bleaching 
by arrested creative forces. 

Take, by all means, this trip, not in expectation of finding 
a smiling paradise and lurking beauty, but its reverse—the 
barely grand and simply majestic. 

From Tadousac, you can return by boat to Quebec, or by 
rail from Riviere du Loup to Point Levi, there connecting 
with the system of railways threading every portion of the 
Canadas and New England. The boat route gives by far the 
greatest variety of scenery and experience to the traveler, 
who has an eye to the picturesque and novel in nature. 


CHAPTER XIY. 


SCENERY AND LOCALITIES IN NORTHERN 
VERMONT. f 


From Wells River, where the Boston, Concord. Montreal 
and White Mountains Railroad, Connecticut River Railroad 
from belowf the Passumpsic River Railroad northward, and 
the Wells River and Montpelier Railroad westward, all form 
a junction, the tourist may, by taking the train over the 
Passumpsic River Railroad, pass northward to interesting 
and picturesque localities, in northern Vermont. The route 
is up the valley of the Connecticut River, which leaves at 
Barnet; thence following the valley of the winding and rapid 
Passumpsic, which, with the adjacent country, all who have 
an eye for the picturesque and pastoral, in a succession of 
flying landscapes, will view with continual pleasure. Pull¬ 
man palace sleeping cars are run, and one can sup in Boston, 
take a berth in a sleeping car, and rise to a breakfast of lake 
trout at Newport in the morning. 

ST. JOHNSBURY, 

twenty miles from Wells River, is one of the finest of Ver¬ 
mont towns, noted for its thrift, enterprise, romantic situa¬ 
tion, and importance as a manufacturing centre. At this 
point the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad intersects the 
Passumpsic line. The Vermont division of this new line is 
already running westward and eastward, and passengers may 
leave St. Johnsbury for Mount Mansfield by this new route, 
going by rail to Morrisville and Hydepark. (See following 
pages.) 





NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


169 


At the Avenue House, opposite the depot, you will find first 
class accommodations, and the gentlemanly and obliging 
proprietor, Geo. H. Aldrich, will make your stay a pleasant 
one. 

A stay of a day at St. Johnsbury will be a day well spent, 
and the Scale Works of the Messrs. Fairbanks are the feature 
of the town. The extensive manufacture of every class of 
scales, from the immense dock and railroad scale to the tiny 
balance of the banker, all equally nice in adjustment, and 
correct in plan of construction, is here carried on by skilled 
workmen, directed by indomitable energy, and true business 
tact and honor. It would seem strange that the iron of Mis¬ 
souri and Pennsylvania should be sent to this point, far up 
among the hills, to be fashioned for use by Yankee workmen, 
and returned to weigh the virgin ore; but such is the case, 
and it is one of the curious facts in manufacture and ex¬ 
change. This is the shire town of Caledonia county, it is the 
important centre of northwestern Vermont, has fine county 
and school buildings, beautiful natural surroundings, and an 
industrious and fast increasing population. The prospective 
increase of railroad facilities by the assured completion of 
the railway to Portland, through the heart of the White 
Mountains, cannot fail to add to its prosperity and importance. 

Few places, of its population, in the country, have so many 
of the desirable institutions and luxuries usually supposed to 
be found only in the large and wealthy cities; for this reason, 
as well as its healthy location and pleasant surroundings, 
with the acknowledged public spirit of its manufacturers and 
people, the village is desirable for residence for people of 
leisure as well as a favorable point for business. 

Continuing northward from St. Johnsbury, just before 
reaching Lyndon, you will notice one of those charming ^va- 
terfalls which so often break the flow of the rapid Passumpsic 
River. At Lyndonville are the repair and construction shops 
of this important railway line, and a growing country town, 
West Burke, thirty-seven miles from Wells River, is the sta¬ 
tion from which passerigers leave, by stage line, for Lake 
Willoughby. Burke Mountain, a bold elevation of 2,000 feet, 


170 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


will be observed to the right as you approach this station, and 
a good view of the eastern wall of Lake Willoughby is had 
as you near this point. 

WILLOUGHBY LAKE. 

The hotel at this lake is six miles distant from the West 
Burke Station; conveyance may be had at the hotel at this 
point for the lake, and no doubt a regular stage line will be 
run in the season of pleasure travel. This wonderful sheet 
of water lies between two lofty mountain walls, evidently 
once united, but torn asunder by some terrible convulsion of 
nature in remote ages. The surface of the lake is nearly 
twelve hundred feet above sea level, and the mountain walls 
tower on either side to the height of nearly two thousand 
feet above the lake. Under these frowning walls on the nar¬ 
row bank threads the roadway. 

Mount Willoughby or Annanance, the eastern wall, is 
nearly two thousand feet in height, and Mount Hor, on the 
western side, is of somewhat less elevation. From the sum¬ 
mit of these heights you may look to the southeast upon the 
White and Franconia Mountains, westward to the bold peaks 
and ranges of the Green Mountains, northward into the Can¬ 
adas, and southward along the wide valleyjbetween the great 
mountain ranges. 

At one point from this height you can look down, a sheer 
descent of 2,500 feet, upon the pure, transparent waters of the 
lake below, visible in its every outline and feature. 

The Willoughby Lake House is a commodious hotel ac¬ 
commodating a hundred guests, finely situated, overlooking 
the lake to the northward. 

We will now continue by rail from West Burke northward. 

Irasburg, a favorite resort for those loving the quiet of the 
pretty village, near the Lowell Mountains, is reached by 
staging from Barton’s Landing, three and one-half miles, 
and, continuing on, at sixty-five miles north of Wells River 
the pretty village of Newport comes into view, the inviting 
exterior of the Memphremagog House, close by the railroad 
station gladdens the eyes of tired travelers, and tl\e calm 
waters of Lake Memphremagog, with the fine steamer at the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


171 


landing, give promise of enjo} r ment and comfort in prospect. 
NEWPORT 

is the station from which the attractions of the lake are 
reached, and is a cheery, pleasant village in the midst of 
grand and varied scenery, where the summer heats are tem¬ 
pered by the cool breeze from the placid lake. Its older in¬ 
habitants may perhaps “a tale unfold” of smuggling in the 
olden time, but, since the village has become important as a 
railway and business centre the old order of things has 
passed away and “ ways that ai»e vain ” no longer engage the 
attention of the busy populace. 

From the slight eminence, to the south of the village, 
known as Prospect Hill, you may overlook the country for 
miles in every direction. In the early morning or at close of 
day the view of the lake with its irregular outline, many 
islands and the changing hues imparted by the rising or set¬ 
ting sun, is peculiarly fine from this elevation. Jay’s Peak, 
Willoughby Mountain and the high summits of Mount Or- 
ford, Mount Elephantis and Owl’s Head are all seen to 
advantage. 

THE MEMPHREMAGOG HOUSE 

is a fine, spacious and well kept hotel, within a stone’s throw 
of the railway station and the steamboat landing, on the 
shores of the lake. It is of five stories, will accommodate 
four hundred guests, and the outlook from its extensive bal¬ 
conies towards the lake, upon the peak of Owl’s Head, which 
looms into view, and the surrounding scenery, is attractive 
to the visitor from the dust, heat and noise of the crowded 
city, and a promenade in the quiet evening hour along its 
ample verandas is one of the delights of summer travel. 
The attractive exterior of the house is well represented in 
the engraving. W. F. Bowman, Esq., is a gentlemanly and 
experienced landlord Sail and row-boats are furnished by 
the landlord at any time to suit the wants and tastes of ex¬ 
cursionists or sportsmen, and for the fine drives hereabouts 
good teams may be had. The drive to the summit of Jay’s 
Peak, in the towns of Westfield and Jay, thirteen miles dis- 


172 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 



tant, is one which all should take. A list of drives, with 
distances, is conspicuously placed in the hotel. The village 
of Stanstead, just over the Canada line, is often visited, and 
Clyde and Coventry Falls are within easy driving distance. 
Despite all other attractions your greatest interest will cen¬ 
tre in the 

BOAT TRIP DOWN THE LAKE. 

Lake Memphremagog, two-tliirds of which lies in Canadian 
Dominions, is the charming rival of Lake George, which it 






























NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


173 


resembles in conformation. Its length is thirty miles, the 
breadth about two miles, widening in some portions to six 
miles. The bold, rock-bound shores, numerous wooded is¬ 
lands, the shadowing peaks of lofty mountains, rising, in 
Some cases, to 3,000 feet in height, with slopes of luxurious 
forest and greenest verdure, serve but to heighten the charm 
of this “Beautiful Water,” supplied from the pure, cold 
streams of the surrounding mountains. 

The new, staunch, iron steamer, “ Lady of the Lake,” one 
hundred and seventy feet in length, and a model of neatness 
and convenience, leaves the landing near the hotel and rail¬ 
way depot each morning at about eight o’clock, also after 
dinner for the second trip, the run being made in three hours 
each way. Her commander, Capt. Fogg, has for a lifetime 
known every point upon these waters, and can give valuable 
information or amuse you with stories and legends innumer¬ 
able, pertaining to the old time history of this wild and 
secluded region. The zigzag course of the steamer gives 
you a trip of nearly fifty miles sailing from Newport to the 
village at the northern outlet—Magog—a Canadian hamlet 
with a background of forest extending to Mount Orford. 

Space will forbid the attempt even to notice all the places 
and objects of interest around this lovely sheet of water, 
lying in its narrow, deep and shadowed basin. 

It will be observed that the eastern shores are fertile and 
sparsely populated with a farming community ; the western 
shore is more bold and abrupt, rising, in many places in 
frowning bluffs of several hundred feet elevation. The 
small Canadian village of Cedarville, in Stanstead, is on the 
eastern side, so named from the surrounding cedar groves, 
and beyond is Fitch’s Bay with the island at its entrance. 
You now approach the bold peak of 
owl’s head, 

a name applied to many summits in the mountains, with 
what show of propriety you must judge. This is a regular 
cone-like summit. Leaving 

ROUND ISLAND, 

a cedar crowned swell-of rock-bound land, rising from the 


174 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


lake, about a half mile from the base of Owl’s Head, which 
you are now approaching, the boat lands you in a few min¬ 
utes at the wharf of that land-locked and mountain-shadowed 
hotel, the Mountain House. The view of the lake from 
this hotel is splendid, and the facilities for fishing and sport¬ 
ing attract that class of tourists in large numbers. The 
ascent of Owl’s Head is made from that hotel. There are 
curious and prominent way marks on the ascent and the 
prospect is grand and extensive, extending, with favorable 
weather, to Montreal and the great St. Lawrence River, over 
the whole extent of the lake and the cluster of lakes, ponds 
and system of rivers, with the ranges, peaks and villages 
around the wide sweep of view. 

Eastward from the Mountain House, near the eastern shore, 
is Skinner’s Island, and on its northeastern shore is Skin¬ 
ner’s Cave, a narrow den in the rock, some thirty feet deep. 
The legend of Uriah Skinner, the bold “ Smuggler of Ma¬ 
gog,” is too long for our pages, but ’tis said he took refuge 
from pursuit in this cave and there perished, hence the name 
of “ Skinner’s Cave,” and grave. 

Steaming northward from this point the great mountains 
rear their huge masses into view. Owl’s Head, Sugar Loaf, 
or Mount Elephantis, the Hog’s Back, and, away in the dis¬ 
tance, Jay’s Peak. Meanwhile, Long Island, with its bold 
shores, has been passed, and on its southern line is the famous 

BALANCE ROCK, 

a huge granite mass, balanced upon a point close to the wa¬ 
ter’s edge, an object of interest to the learned and the curi¬ 
ous. The eastern shores are now abrupt, and residences of 
wealthy Canadians crown the heights. Molson, the Mon¬ 
treal banker, has here his summer residence, and is the pro¬ 
prietor of an island near the eastern shore. 

Georgeville is a place of some importance, where stop is 
made for the mails, and you steam across to the western 
shore to Knowlton’s Landing. Stages run from this point to 
Waterloo, on the Stanstead and Chambly Railroad, where 
cars may be taken for Montreal and intermediate points. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


175 


Steaming on from this landing, and rounding the bold, rocky 
promontory of Gibraltar Point, you have a wide view, with 
MOUNT ORFORD 

in the distance — the highest summit of Lower Canada, 3,300 
feet elevation, distant five miles from the village of Magog, 
and may be ascended by carriage roadway to the summit. 

MAGOG, 

or Outlet Village, is the terminal point of the trip — a true 
Canadian settlement. The Parks House affords you enter¬ 
tainment, but good dinners may be obtained on the boat. 
Passengers can here take the stage line to Sherbrooke, on the 
Grand Trunk Railway, (a ride of sixteen miles around Mount 
Orford) or to Waterloo, (twenty-one miles,) on the Shefford 
and Chambly Railroad. 

But most of those who came with us will make the return 
trip to Newport, viewing the fine scenery along the shores in 
reverse order, and continue their journey to Montreal by 

THE SOUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY, 

a new line from Newport, shortening the distance and saving 
time to the tourist, and affording to through passengers from 
the Connecticut valley, especially from its northern portion, 
and from the White Mountains, a short and direct route 
to the Canadian metropolis. This route is along the valley 
of the Clyde River, via Richford, West Farnham and St. 
Johns to Montreal, through the Victoria Bridge. Trains are 
now run in connection with the Connecticut and Passump- 
sic Express Line (no change of cars), and afford all the 
accommodations and improvements demanded by first 
class through travel. The old Passumpsic line northward 
runs along the Massawippi valley, by the shores of Massa- 
wippi Lake, uniting at Sherbroke with the Grand Trunk line 
for Montreal, Quebec and intermediate points. • The scenery 
upon any of the Canadian lines is not sufficiently attractive 
to merit extended description. 


CHAPTER XV. 


The Vermont Division of the Portland and Ogdens - 
burg Rail Road. 


This new line, extending westward from St. Johnsbury, 
through Danville, Walden, Hardwick, Greensboro, Wolcott 
Morristown and Hyde Park (the present terminus) and east¬ 
ward, through Concord, Dalton and other towns to White- 
field on the B. C. & M. R. R. (a portion of this latter route 
still incomplete,) is eventually to become an important link 
in a great through route from the west to tide-water at Port¬ 
land by the short, direct, and central northern line via. Og- 
densburg and the White Mountain Notch. This division of 
the line passes through a territory heretofore lacking railway 
facilities, and, in many localities picturesque and desirable 
for summer residence. 

Our space forbids extended description of the many local¬ 
ities in this region so lately opened to the tide of travel. The 
general aspect of the country is very deversified, the railway 
line abounding in cuts and fills and extensive trestle works. 

MORRISVILLE, 

is a village in Lamoille County which has become a place of 
considerable resort for parties seeking rural quiet, and is al¬ 
so a point of departure for Mt. Mansfield. But, at 

HYDE PARK, 

fifty-two miles from St. Johnsbury, by rail west, the present 
western terminus of this railway line, and the shire town _ of 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


177 


the picturesque Lamoille County, is to be the pleasure resort 
of this attractive region. The village is beautifully located 
more than one hundred feet above the sparkling Lamoille 
River, and eighty feet above the road-bed of the railway, in 
the centre of the loveliest scenery in Vermont. 



The American Hotel, 

owned and kept by Col. E. B. Sawyer, late of the Vermont 
Cavalry, is about eighty rods from the depot, affording a fine 
view of the beautiful and romantic scenery of the region. 
The observatory of the house commands an extensive view 
of the grand natural amphitheatre, of which this valley is 
the centre, extending from Jay’s Peak to Camel’s Hump. 

This is a well kept and in every respect first-class hotel, 
where patrons can but enjoy their stay. The township has, 
nestling in quiet beauty among its many hills, fourteen nat¬ 
ural lakes and ponds, which, with the fair Lamoille, Gihon 
and Green Rivers, and the numerous brooks, afford rare sport 
to those skilled in the delicate art of enticing the wary and 
beautiful trout from their cool and quiet haunts. 

I MOUNT MANSFIELD, 

the Bridge, Pulpit and Moss Glen Falls, with the numer¬ 
ous healing mineral springs, and many other points of inter- 




178 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


cst, are conveniently near, and easily accessible, over the 
best of country roads. Good teams are ready at all times to 
carry passengers to any point. 

The healthfulness of the pure, bracing mountain air and 
sparkling water of this town is unquestioned. The County 
buildings are.located here, and the village is the political and 
business centre of the surrounding country. Two hotels, a 
National Bank, a good newspaper, and school, with several 
shops displaying a good variety of merchandise, make it a 
live and attractive village. 

Mount Mansfield is the grand feature in the landscape. 
The bold summits of this noble eminence are thought to 
represent in their peculiar outline the features of the human 
face, looking upward forever from the firm base of the ever¬ 
lasting hills. The “forehead,” “nose” and “chin” being 
represented by separate elevations of the great mass. The 
chin is the most prominent, being 4,350 feet above sea level, 
the forehead only 3,850 feet, while the nose rises one hundred 
and sixty feet above the forehead, perhaps the only nose upon 
which an “extra” inch would be hardly noticeable. Climb¬ 
ing to the point of the nose, a rocky knob of Cromwellian 
proportions in this immense portrait, you overlook a reach 
of view scarcely surpassed in grandeur and sublimity. Lake 
Champlain and the Adirondacks, the St. Lawrence valley, 
Montreal and the mountains of Canada, and around Lake 
Memphremagog, the White and Franconia Mountains to the 
eastward, and the broken ranges of hills and mountains and 
silver lines of rivers within the State. Your guide will duly 
explain to you the many localities, and the scientific will be 
interested in the “ testimony of the rocks ” on these high 
peaks, giving evidence of former submergence. 

All these points of interest can be reached from Hydepark 
as cheaply as from the southern approach via Waterbury 
and Stowe; they may also be reached from Morrisville, the 
next station east of Hydepark, on this line. There is also a 
new and safe carnage road to the summit of Mt. Mansfield, 
and the expense of the journey is the same as from Stowe, 
on the other side. 


CHAPTER XVI. 


From Wells River to Montpelier, the State Capital, 

THENCE WESTWARD TO LAKE CHAMPLAIN, LAKE 

George and Saratoga Springs. 


This route gives railway facilities to a section of country 
heretofore destitute, passes through a fertile region rich in 
agricultural products and lumber, landing the passenger in 
the heart of the State, at the old capital town of Montpelier. 

On this new route the town of Marshfield is one of import¬ 
ance, the village being distant about a mile from the station. 
Here are valuable water-powers utilized for lumber manu¬ 
facture. Many fine trout ponds are within short distances, 
and “ Molly’s Falls,” a short distance from the village, is a 
fine descent of water of some two hundred feet fall, with 
attractive surrounding scenery. It will be a place of resort 
in the warm season. Ryegate, Groton, Peacham and Plain- 
field are intersected on the way to 

MONTPELIER, 

which is distant thirty-eight miles, by rail, from Wells River. 
This old New England capital, with its substantial public 
buildings, fine location in the valley of the Winooski River, 
surrounded by hills, from which you look upon wide land¬ 
scapes peculiar to the Mountain Commonwealth, should be 
visited by all. The Capitol building is a fine granite struct¬ 
ure of elaborate architecture and pleasing design. The rooms, 
where are collected the geological specimens from every sec¬ 
tion of the State, and documents and articles, ancient, curi- 





















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


181 


ous and rare, relating to the history of the State, should be 
visited by all whose time admits. There are three insurance 
companies, two national banks, manufacturing in consider¬ 
able variety, and the church edifices are among the finest in 
the state. The Vermont Central Railroad does not enter the 
village, but is reached by a branch road of one and one-half 
miles in length. 

bishop’s hotel, 

H. H. Bishop, Esq., proprietor, is one of the old land marks 
of the capital, and beneath its ancient roof the traveller,\ or 
tourist, may always find substantial comfort. 

The drives in the vicinity are charming. From many 
points, at no great distance from the village, grand views of 
the Winooski valley open to view—fine pictures of mountain 
ranges and smiling valleys, the charm of which time only 
will dispel. Leaving the capital and passing northward the 
central line runs alpng the valley of the Winooski, and 

WATERBURY, 

the Mount Mansfield stage station of this road, is reached—a 
fine summer resort in the wide valley, lying among the great 
hills and mountains. Drives from here to the natural bridge 
at Bolton Falls, three miles, and to Camel’s Hump, eight 
miles, are attractive. 

The Waterbury Hotel is an “ hostelrie ” of good repute and 
deserved popularity, over which the proprietor presides by 
right of his ability to do what many cannot, that is “keep a 
hotel.” The accommodations are for one hundred guests 
and the house affords a fine place of resort for pleasure- 
seekers. 

The trip from Waterbury to the pleasant village of 
STOWE, 

ten miles distant, at the base of Mount Mansfield, is made 
by staging in the royal style of the olden time, in coaches 
drawn by six white horses. This pleasant village is flanked 
by mountains, and here visitors are provided with teams, 


182 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


guides and all needful help for the ascent. Situated in this 
pleasant locality is 

THE MOUNT MANSFIELD HOUSE, 

calculated to accommodate four hundred guests; it is spacious 
and commodious in all its arrangements and appointments 
and the stables and alleys connected are on a liberal scale. 
The proprietors are not to be out-done in their attentions to 
guests. N. P. Keeler, Esq., is the experienced and popular 
manager. 

The walks and drives cannot be surpassed. A short dis¬ 
tance from the hotel, Sunset Hill commands a fine view of 
the surrounding country. The drives to “ Smuggler’s Notch,” 
the most wild and romantic mountain gorge in New Eng¬ 
land, eight miles; Bingham’s Falls, five miles; Moss Glen 
Falls, three and one-half miles; Gold Brook, three miles; 
West Hill, two miles; Morrisville Falls and Johnson’s Falls, 
eight and twelve miles respectively, are a series of excur¬ 
sions which can but afford pleasure to patrons of this house. 
A carriage road has been constructed to the summit of Mount 
Mansfield, eight miles distant. 

The Summit House is the hotel, under the western side of 
the nose, affording substantial comfort to one hundred guests. 
This ascent, in its whole course, is one of continuous inter¬ 
est; the wildness and grandeur of the scenery, and the nov¬ 
elty of experience upon the route, amply repay all expense 
incurred or fatigue experienced in the journey. 

Reluctantly leaving this magnificent prospect and return¬ 
ing to Stowe, and, from thence, after resting, to the railroad 
at Waterbury, you continue the journey northward. Cars 
may be left at Ridley’s station, where conveyance can be had 
for “ Camel’s Hump,” a lone summit only six miles distant, 
so named from the peculiar outline of its form seen from a 
distance; and, next to Mansfield, the noticeable summit of 
the State. 

AT ESSEX JUNCTION 

you may diverge, by branch railway of eight miles, along the 
Winooski valley, through the brisk Winooski Village, at the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


183 


Falls of the same name, through the “tunnel” of nearly four 
hundred feet length, piercing a high blulf, to the fair city of 

BURLINGTON, 

\ 

the queen city of the mountain commonwealth, on the east¬ 
ern slope of Lake Champlain, which, at this point is ten 
miles wide. This is one of the great lumber ports of the 
country, and manufactories of iron, steel and wooden wares 
and woolen fabrics, are numerous and important. See fuller 
description, in succeeding chapter, of this city and surround¬ 
ing towns. 


CHArTER XVII. 


From Saratoga to the White Mountains, by Rail, or 

THROUGH THE LAKES. 


This route is over the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad 
line, via Fort Edward, the Whitehall or Lake Champlain 
Junction, Castleton and West Rutland to Rutland ; thence, 
by the Rutland and Burlington Division of the Central 
Vermont Railroad, through Brandon, Middlebury and Vergen- 
nes, to Burlington, on Lake Champlain. At Essex Junc¬ 
tion (8 mile above Burlington) connection is formed with the 
Central Vermont Railroad, and passengers may proceed 
directly to Montpelier and the White Mountains. These 
roads are run in close connection. The cars are among the 
finest run on New England roads, and the scenery along the 
way is beautiful and romantic. 

AT WEST RUTLAND 

are the extensive marble quarries of Sheldons and Slason, and 
RUTLAND 

is the centre of the marble interest of Vermont, which has 
become the important industry of this section. It is also a 
flourishing town for trade from the surrounding regions, has 
good hotel accommodations and is attractive and popular 
as a place of residenoe, or for temporary sojourn. 

BRANDON 

is an important town having manufactories of some impor¬ 
tance. The “ Frozen Well of Brandon,” has much notoriety 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


185 


—a coating of ice forming upon the water in the hottest of 
summer days. 

Eighteen miles from Brandon is 

LAKE DUNMORE, 

named in honor of the Earl of Dunmore, a beautiful sheet of 
water, lying among the Green Mountains of Vermont, and 
distant also eight miles from Middlebury. The Lake is about 
five miles long and one mile wide, covering a space of about 
1,400 acres, at an altitude of 358 feet above the sea. Its 
waters are clear as crystal, and its shores skirted with a vari¬ 
ety of scenery. On the western shores, the country rises in 
undulating meadows and wooded hills, while on the eastern 
side two or three spurs of the Green Mountains rise to a 
height of 1,500 to 2,000 feet, thus uniting, in charming vari¬ 
ety, the bold, majestic mountain scenery with the lovelier 
features of lake and meadow. From these elevations on 
either side, accessible to pedestrians or on horse-back, charm¬ 
ing views of the surrounding country, embracing Lake 
Champlain and the Adirondack Mountains on the west, and 
peaks of the Green Mountain range on the east and south, 
are obtained; the view, extending 75 miles from north to 
south, is not surpassed, excepting from the summits of 
Mansfield and Washington. 

To reach the Lake, leave the cars at Brandon. A splendid 
line of Concord Stages runs direct to the house, in connec¬ 
tion with trains from New York and Boston. The Lake may 
also be reached from Middlebury. The Brandon route is 
preferred by the larger number. 

THE LAKE DUNMORE HOUSE, 

E. P. Hitchcock, Esq., proprietor, is the place to enjoy the 
fine scenery of the locality and all the essentials and luxu¬ 
ries, expected by patrons of first-class hotels, will here be 
found, including fine teams for those who wish. Among the 
more prominent points of interest, and which are well worth 
visiting, during your stay, are Mount Gnomon and Mount 
Moosalamoo to the east, the latter rising to a height of 1,959 
feet, Mount Bryant on the north, 500 feet above the Lake, on 
























NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


187 


the top of which is Prospect Rock, easily reached, command¬ 
ing magnificent views of Lake Champlain and the Adiron¬ 
dack Region, Sunset Hill on the west—one of the most 
delightful spots in Vermont — Warner’s Cave, Pleasure 
Island in the centre of the lake, Wolf Hill, Lana Cascade 
and other places interesting in their historic associations and 
natural charms. 

The Lake Dunmore House has a more commanding loca¬ 
tion than any in the region, and a class of patrons whose 
acquaintance it is a pleasure to cultivate. Many families of 
wealth, from the large cities, have private cottages here, 
which add to the attractiveness of the place for residence. 

MIDDLEBURY 

is the county seat of Addison county and the seat of Middle- 
bury College. It is important as a manufacturing town 
and large quantities of a superior quality of white marble 
are exported. 


VERGENNES 

is the smallest in territorial extent of any “city” in the 
country. It has a fine harbor and an excellent water power 
from the falls on Otter Creek. It was once important as a 
military station, and its limited area of 380 by 400 rods extent 
is generally utilized. It can be conceived that no difficulty 
is experienced, as in other cities, from its “magnificent dis¬ 
tances ” and scattered and isolated sections. 

THE STEVENS HOUSE, 

S. S. Gaines, proprietor, is a well kept, neat and commodi¬ 
ous house of entertainment, long and favorably known to 
travelers. 

WINOOSKI, 

between Burlington and Essex Junction, is a thriving vil¬ 
lage, with several enterprising manufacturing establishments. 
The Stevens House, ,J. W. Celley, proprietor, is a well 
kept and cosy place of rest for those who may tarry here for 


188 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


a time. From Essex Junction the route is south-easterly, 
over the Central Vermont line, through the mountainous 
region, via Richmond and Waterbury, with distant views of 
Mounts Mansfield and Camel’s Hump, to Montpelier, (previ¬ 
ously described), and thence, by Wells River route, to the 
mountains. 

Passengers may also go directly to Montreal from Essex 
Junction via St. Albans and St. Johns through the Victoria 
Bridge. 

THE ROUTE BY LAKE BOATS 

is the one chosen by many, especially by those whose time 
and inclination allow, and tempt them to view the beauties 
of the scenery and places of historic interest about Lake 
George and Lake Champlain. 

To make this trip, go by rail over the Rensselaer and Sar¬ 
atoga Railroad to Fort Edward, as before, thence by Glens 
Falls branch, a short ride, to 

GLENS FALLS, 

a flourishing and picturesque manufacturing village, with 
5,000 inhabitants. The village was completely destroyed by 
fire about ten years since, but has recovered from the disas¬ 
ter. The falls on the Hudson have a descent of 70 feet. This 
fall is 200 miles from the mouth of the Hudson River; the 
river wears its way over strata of black limestone. The ac¬ 
tion of the water has worn some of these strata away, a few 
at the top, and more further down the falls, so that a kind of 
irregular series of steps has been formed, over which the 
waters of the river go thundering down. 

A bridge 600 feet long spans the Hudson, resting, in the 
centre, on a marble island. This is the spot where, in the 
“ last of the Mohicans,” the inimitable Cooper located some 
of his finest drawn characters. By a private stairway that 
goes down near the bridge, one may reach two objects of in¬ 
terest, viz. Indian Cave and Big Snake. The cave runs 
through a small island from one channel to another, and has 
been made famous by the genius of Cooper. Veins of satin 
spar are found in the fallen rocks below, and trilobites are 
sometimes imbedded in the rocks. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


189 



The Rockwell House, 

Rockwell Brothers, proprietors, is the hotel where the tourist 
will make his home during his stay. The house is finely lo¬ 
cated, both as to convenience of patrons and picturesque sur¬ 
roundings. The patrons of this house will find the managers 
fully up to the modern demands made for first-class enter¬ 
tainment by the many whose means and leisure allow them 
to spend the summer months, or a portion of them, in recre¬ 
ation. Teams are furnished for all who wish to visit the 
many places of interest in the vicinity, and your stay, be it 
long or short, cannot but be a pleasant one. The man of 
business here has easy and sure connection with the great 
business centres, the man of leisure finds it a charming place 
of retreat, while, for families, no better point can be found 
for spending a vacation. 

The stage route from Glens Falls to Caldwell, at the head 

























190 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


of Lake George, gives a ride of nine miles through a wild 
and picturesque region. Five miles from Glens Falls, Wil¬ 
liams' Bock is passed, marking the site of the bloody defeat 
of Col. Williams and his Indian allies, by the French Com¬ 
mander Dieskau. Williams was slain near the rock which 
bears his name. The victory of the French forces was of 
short duration; they were in turn defeated, and their leader 
wounded and taken prisoner, at the battle at the colonial 
camp at Lake George, where Gen. Johnson so gallantly 
avenged the French successes. The bodies of the English, 
slain in the first encounter, were thrown by the French sol¬ 
diery into the quiet pool near Williams’ rock, now known as 

BLOODY POND. 

“ The Bloody Defile ” is the ravine where the savage mas¬ 
sacre occurred. 

CALDWELL 

is a quiet village at the head of the fair lake whose charms 
give it importance. There are several small hotels, but the 
Fort William Henry Hotel, T. Reossle & Son, proprietors, 
is the elegant and sumptuous house of the tourist. It ac¬ 
commodates a thousand guests, is located near the ruins of 
Old Fort William Henry—the site of the fearful massacre by 
the Indian allies, aided, perhaps, by a portion of the French 
forces under Montcalm, and about one mile from Fort George. 
The grounds are laid out with elegant taste, sloping down to 
the edge of the waters, affording fine views of the southern 
end of the lake. Promenades run the whole length of the 
hotel, fronting the lake, a sparkling fountain constantly plays 
m the well-arranged grounds, and all the arrangements of the 
interior are designed to give to guests the maximum of com¬ 
fort and luxurious ease. Stages run to Schroon Lake, Lake 
Luzerne, and to the southern Adirondacks. 

LAKE GEORGE % 

is three hundred feet above the sea level, thirty-six miles 
long, and varies in width from three-quarters of a mile to 
three or four miles. The depth is, in some places, more 
than four hundred feet, and the waters are everywhere 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


191 


remarkably clear, so much so that objects can be seen at a 
depth of more than thirty feet. The French gave it the name 
of “ Lake of the Holy Sacrament,” and used sometimes to 
transport the waters, on account; of their purity, for use in 
their churches in baptismal fonts. Not only are artists and 
lovers of sublime and beautiful scenery attracted to the lake, 
by its beautiful scenery, but the many old associations, called 
up by a visit to its surroundings, make it a modern Mecca 
for the patriotic. 

It was first visited in 1646, by the French Jesuit, Father 
Jogues, who perished, as did many of his successors, by the 
hands of the fierce Mohawks, who dwelt m ound its borders. 

The trip through the lake from Caldwell is now made in a 
few hours, in one of the elegant steamers, “ Minnehaha” and 
“ Ganouskie,” via Bolton, 14 Mile Island, and Hague, to the 
lower end of the lake, where stages (4 miles staging) are 
taken for Ticonderoga and the pier of the Champlain Steamers. 

Of the many points along the way, charming for beauty 
and grandeur, and interesting from association, we have not 
space for description, the eye will take them in with rare 
pleasure, and some one familiar with localities, will cheer¬ 
fully point out the many points of interest. . The outlet of 
Lake George is a rapid stream descending 240 feet in the less 
than 4 miles of its flow before discharging into the larger 
Lake Champlain. The remains of old Fort Ticonderoga hav¬ 
ing been visited, standing in solitary ruin upon a high pe¬ 
ninsula projecting into the lake, you take one of the steamers 
plying between Whitehall, Burlington and Rouse’s Point oji 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

This largest of eastern lakes is one hundred and forty miles 
extreme length, covers an area of six hundred square miles, 
connects at its southern base with the Hudson, by canal from 
Whitehall, receives the surplus waters of Lake George, and 
discharges through the Richelieu River into the St. Law¬ 
rence. Burlington, St. Albans and Vergennes, on the east¬ 
ern shore, have fine harbors, and Plattsburg, Ticonderoga 
and Crown Points on the New York side, are places of great 


192 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


historic interest and noted associations. The scenery on the 
Ausable River, reached from Port Kent or Plattsburg, is the 
most remarkable of any inland stream in the Eastern States. 
Here the river dashes for a mile through a narrow passage 
in the sand-stone, between walls of two hundred feet perpen¬ 
dicular height, forming a chasm wild, romantic and grand 
in the extreme, distant twelve miles from Plattsburg. 

Lake Champlain was discovered in the year 1609 by Sam¬ 
uel de Champlain, the noted and indomitable French geog¬ 
rapher. 

The following from “ Chisholms Guide Book” is beauti¬ 
fully descriptive. “Travellers who have widely explored 
the objects of interest in the New and Old World unite in 
pronouncing the waters and environs of Champlain the most 
beautiful and impressive the eye can rest upon. The waters 
of the Lake, whether reposing in a calm, or surging under 
the power of the tempest, are indescribably beautiful; but 
this attraction is infinitely enhanced by the islands which in 
varied forms stud its bosom, by the peninsulas which pierce 
it, and by the bold, rocky precipices that impend over the 
Lake. The shores on either side are impressive and beau¬ 
tiful : now a long line of rugged cliffs, crowned by dense for¬ 
ests, appears, and now smiling in luxuriousranges of culture 
and elegance, embellished by farm-houses, mansions and vil¬ 
lages with their glittering spires. All this scene of beauty is 
embraced by the dark framework of mountains that impart 
magnificence to the whole.” 

This steamboat passage to Burlington gives beautiful views 
of Mt. Mansfield and Camel’s Hump, of Green Mountain 
range, and the grand peaks and outlines of the Adirondacks 
in New York, 

CROWN POINT 

is twelve miles north of Ticonderoga, with the ruins of the 
old fortress on the high promontory between the lake and 
the bay beyond. Port Henry is a finely located village with a 
population engaged in iron mining and manufacture. West- 
port and Essex are other points, where steamers touch, and 
from which passage may be taken for the Adirondack region. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


193 


Steaming on in a north-easterly course, passing the Four 
Brothers , Juniper Islands, and Bock Bunder , 

BURLINGTON 

is reached; where passengers for the mountains will leave 
the boat. Those going through to Montreal, or Ogdensburg, 
will continue on to Mouse's Point, there connecting with rail¬ 
way lines northward and westward. Burlington is one of the 
great lumber ports of the country. The ground on which it 
is built slopes gradually up from the lake, rising to a height 
of 370 feet. The University of Vermont has fine buildings 
crowning the highlands. From the dome of the main build¬ 
ing a grand scene is presented, including in the circle swept 
by the eye over sixty prominent peaks, the bright waters and 
islands of Lake Champlain with the towering summits of the 
Adirondacks beyond. The grave of the old hero, Ethan Al¬ 
len, is visited by all patriots. A fine statue was erected over 
the grave during the year 1873. 



The American Hotel 

is*one of the largest and most complete hotels in the city, and 
in its management and provision for the wants and comforts 
of patrons, is second to none in the whole range of pleasure 













194 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


travel. H. H. Howe, proprietor, is the gentlemanly and effi¬ 
cient manager. 



The Van Ness House, 

D. C. Barber & Co., proprietors, is also a new, large, commo¬ 
dious and well kept hotel, where all may be made comforta¬ 
ble, with good quarters and the best of fare, during their stay 
in this fine old Green Mountain city. No essential requisite 






































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


195 


to the traveler’s comfort will be wanting to guests at this 
popular house. 

From Burlington passengers may go over the Central .Ver¬ 
mont Railroad to Essex Junction, thence to Montpelier,where 
the new line from Montpelier and Wells River takes him to 
connection with the White Mountains Railroad. Or, the 
tourist may go by boat from Burlington to Rouse’s Point, 
thence to Montreal and Quebec, and from these points return 
via the mountains, reaching the line of the White Mountains 
Railroad at Northumberland Junction, 


CHAPTER XVIII. 


From Niagara Falls to the White Mountains. 


Visitors at Niagara Falls who wish to supplement their 
visit to that great natural wonder by continuing their journey 
to the romantic region of the White Hills, will go by rail to 
Lewiston, on Lake Ontario, thence by boat to the fine 
Canadian city of 

TORONTO. 

The view of Toronto, approached from the lake, is remark¬ 
ably fine, the wharves and public buildings giving indica¬ 
tions of a city of importance. It has a population of about 
65,000 souls, and is the chief city of the Upper Canadas or 
the Province of Ontario. The buildings of the University 
are massive in proportion and built in the Norman style of 
architecture. Trinity College, the Normal School and 
Loretto Convent are other educational institutions of note. 
The English and Catholic Cathedrals are both buildings to 
attract attention. 

The Queen’s Hotel, Toronto, Ontario, Capt. Thomas 
Dick, Proprietor, Thomas Me Gaw, Manager, is convenient 
to the Railway Stations and Steamboat Piers, on Front 
Street, near the business portions of the city. Commo¬ 
dious rooms elegantly filled with new furniture of most 
modern style, spacious and attractive grounds and croquet 
lawns, with a sumptuous billiard parlor serve to make it an 
acceptable temporary or permanent home for the merchant 
or the tourist and for travelers generally. Carriages always 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


197 


in waiting for the pleasant drives and extensive views of 
a varied character in and around the city. The extensive 
Galleries of Art, the Queen’s Park, the University Build¬ 
ings, the Lunatic Asylum, the Trinity College, and Nor¬ 
mal School are some of the places which must be seen. 
It is one of the largest hotels in the Dominion of Canada, 
and overlooks the beautiful Bay and Lake Ontario. His Im¬ 
perial Highness the Grand Duke Alexis, of Russia, and his 
suite were furnished, in December, 1871, with the splendid 
suite of apartments, comprising one wing of the house, 
without extra preparation. The (Queen’s) Royal Hotel 
at Niagara has the same ownership and management. 

From Toronto the tourist may go by Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way, directly to Montreal, thence, through the Victoria 
Bridge and over the south-eastern and Passumpsic Railways, 
to connection with the White Mountains Railway at Wells 
River; or, he may go from Montreal via Grand Trunk 
Railway, and Island Pond to Northumberland, (express train 
and parlor cars over this route) and approach the mountains 
from the north; but, by far the larger number of those who 
travel for pleasure, will come by boat, from Toronto, through 
Lake Ontario and the St, Lawrence River, through the Thou¬ 
sand Islands , over the Rapids and under the Great Victoria 
Bridge, to Montreal, and, from thence, by railway (choice of 
routes as described on preceding page) to the Mountains. 
Some prefer to go from Toronto to Kingston by Grand Trunk 
Railway,and there take boat for the passage among the islands 
and down the river to Montreal, giving variety to the journey. 

THE THOUSAND ISLANDS— 

there are nearer two thousand—stretch themselves along the 
centre of the St. Lawrence for a distance of forty miles. 
They vary in extent from the green dot upon the wave to the 
island of miles in length, and are among the wonders of the 
St. Lawrence. 

THE RAPIDS. 

The Long Sault is a continuous rapid of nine miles extent, 
divided in the centre by an island. The current rushes 


198 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


through these rapids at the rate of twenty miles an hour and 
is exciting in the extreme to one a stranger to the passage; 
but, with skillful pilotage, the passage is safely made and the 
apparent danger adds to the glow of excitement and makes 
it a journey to be remembered. 

The Lachine Rapids nearest to Montreal are visited by 
many who wish to enjoy the sensation of “ Shooting the 
Rapids.” In approaching anchorage at Montreal, you pass 
beneath the grand Victoria Bridge (see chapter on “ Mon¬ 
treal ”) and have fine views of the city and the splendid stone 
piers which line the water front of this northern commercial 
centre. From Montreal proceed to the mountains by either 
rail route as described in connection with all rail route on 
preceding pages of this chapter. 

HOME AGAIN. 

Having made the circuit of the mountains and enjoyed the 
cool breezes which sweep the northern lakes, we shall all, in 
due time, turn our faces towards home, and we shall all have 
traveled to small purpose if we have not received 

********* <i hint an( j token 

Of fairer^ valleys and streams than these, 

Where the rivers of God are full of water, 

And full of sap are His healing trees! ” 


HOTELS. 


199 


A GF^EAT ATTRACTION 

TO TOURISTS AND PLEASURE TRAVELLERS 

IS THE ROUTE OF THE 

QUEBEC AND GULF PORT S. S. CO., 

Whose commodious Steamers proceed from Quebec down 
the majestic River and Gulf of St. Lawrence in sight of the 
grandest scenery and many historical points, calling at nu¬ 
merous Sea-bathing Resorts on the South shore of the Gulf, 
giving the Sportsman and Angler a chance to visit the most 
far-famed Rivers, Bays and Inlets which swarm with Trout 
and Salmon. 

The Steamers connect at Point du Chene (Shediac) with 
Intercolonial R. R. for St. John, N. B., thence by Cars and 
Steamers to Portland and Boston, and at Pictou with Inter¬ 
colonial R. R. for Halifax, N. S., connecting there with Rail¬ 
way or Steamer lines for St. John, Portland and Boston. This 
is the Route to Charlottetown, Prince Edward’s Island. 

Excursion Tickets from New York, Boston or other points 
in New England to Montreal, Quebec, thence via Gulf Port 
Steamers to Shediac, N. B., Charlottetown, P. E. I.*, Pictou, 
N. S., St. John, N. B., Halifax, N. S., passing through all 
points of interest in the maritime provinces and returning 
by either Rail or Steamer to Portland, Boston and New 
York, or vice versa , for sale in New York, Boston, and prin¬ 
cipal points in New England, at all Offices selling Excursion 
Tickets. 

Ask Ticket Agent for Gulf Port Steamer Circular, which 
will give you all particular information, and map of route. 

STEVENSON & LEVE, Passenger Agents , 

General Office, Quebec, 


W. MOORE, Manager. 


200 


HOTELS. 



The undersigned respectfully inform their numerous 
friends and patrons in the United States and Canada, that, 
by the recent enlargement and improvements effected in 
this establshment, they are now prepared to accommodate 
over 250 guests. The Preble House has two beautiful fronts, 
as shown by the engraving. It is unrivalled in its not only 
pleasant location, but is convenient to the Post Office, Banks, 
Public Buildings, Horse Car Depot, &c. The house has been 
thoroughly refitted and furnished with every regard to com¬ 
fort and luxury; has hot and cold baths and closets on eacli 
floor. The aim has been to make this the most unexception¬ 
able first-class hotel in Portland. We trust that our long ex¬ 
perience in first-class hotels will give confidence to our friends 
and the traveling public, that they will receive every comfort 
and attention at the Preble. 

Carriages, with attentive drivers, can be had at all times 
by applying at the office; coaches will also be found at the 
Railway Depots and Steamboat Landings on the arrival of 
the several trains and Steamers. 

M. S. GIBSON & CO., Proprietors. 













HOTELS. 


201 



Macliiirgliaiu House, 


PORTSMOUTH, N. H. 


Not excelled by any hotel in New England for elegance 
and completeness in every department. This house is be¬ 
coming popular among summer travelers, as headquarters, 
while visiting Rye, Hampton, York or Wells Beaches, either 
of which is within a pleasant drive. Yachts, with expe¬ 
rienced skippers, to take guests to the Isles of Shoals, the 
Harbor, or up the Piscataqua. Direct communication by 
railroad to the mountains and lakes of New Hampshire and 
Maine. 

THE FINEST BILLIARD HALL IN THE STATE. 

Coaches at Eastern and Concord Depots. 
















202 


HOTELS. 


OLD ORCHARD HOUSE, 

OLD ORCHARD BEACH, 

SACO, - - - - MA.HSTE, 

E. C. STAPLES, Proprietor. 

This house, the pioneer of Sea-side Hotels, is the largest 
on the coast; contains about 250 rooms and will accommodate 
400 guests, and being forty feet above the level of the sea, it 
has the advantage of breezes from every quarter ; it is sur¬ 
mounted by a tower 105 feet above the sea and gives a splen¬ 
did view in all directions. Its office, parlors, &c., are com¬ 
modious, it also has a Concert-Room 72 by 36 feet with stage 
36 by 12, with full set of scenery, drop scenes, &c., for the 
performance of amateur theatricals, tableaux, dancing, etc., 
and will seat about 400 people. A band will be in attend¬ 
ance every evening during the season. Telegraph office in 
the house. The famous Old Orchard or Fern Park, the finest 
in New England, is the private property of the proprietor of 
this house and is for the exclusive use of his guests. 

The Beach is ten miles in length, with an average breadth 
at low water of 18 rods and so hard and smooth that a horse’s 
hoof scarcely makes an impression upon it. Surf bathing is 
perfectly safe, as there is no undertow, and for the enjoy¬ 
ment of all the charms of old ocean in summer, this place 
cannot be surpassed in the world. Billiards and bowling sa¬ 
loons are connected with the house, also a livery stable with 
safe horses and elegant carriages. Bathing houses on the 
beach, containing 100 rooms, with a competent man in 
charge, at reasonable terms. 

Boston & Maine R. R. Station 2 minutes walk from the 
house, distance from the E. R. R. Depot 4 miles, from Bos¬ 
ton 100 miles, from Portland 15 miles. 13 miles drive to Sa¬ 
co Pool, 12 miles drive to Atlantic and Kirkwood Houses, 
Scarboro beach, and about 15 to Cape Cottage and Ocean 
House, Cape Elizabeth. 


THE GRAND PAGIPIG HOTEL, 


CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. 

Geo. W. Gage, John A. Bice, Proprietors. 



The largest, most complete Hotel in the world and beat protected wjaimt Fire. 
Representing with the cost of land, structure and furnishing, an outlay of nearly 
$3,000,000.00, occupying the entire Block opposite the new Government Build¬ 
ing, bounded by Clark, Jackson, La Salle & Quincy Streets-First opened 

to the Public June 1873. 

Terms, $4.50 per day. 

U£O.W. GAG£ «fc JOHN A. RICE, Proprietors. 
















































































































































































204 


HOTELS. 


COLONADE HOTEL, 


Cor. 15th & Chestnut Sts., 

PHILADELPHIA,.PENN. 

CENTRALLY LOCATED- 

Horse Cars pass here to all Points in the C?ity. 



































































HOTELS, 


205 


Grants Hotel, 



Berwick Side, GREAT FALLS, N. H. 


New House, New Furniture, and all Modern improve¬ 
ments. House warmed throughout by Furnace. Gas in 
every room. Billiard Hall and Barber Shop connected. A 
good stable connected with the House. 

This Hotel is first-class in all its appointments, is pleasantly 
located near the depots and business centres of Great Falls 
and Berwick, and persons visiting this part of New England 
for business or pleasure, will find it a desirable stopping-place. 

EDMUND GRANT, Proprietor. 

J. E. LANGLEY, Clerk. 






























WESTERLY, X. 

An Elegant Hotel—Cost over a quarter Million dollars— 
A favorite Summer resort (open all the year). Free tickets 
by steamer, twice daily, to Surf Bathing Beach, time forty 
minutes. Circulars. Also in connection with the above is 



Plinjptoi} Ijouse, 

On the seashore. 
Watch Hill, R. I., 
(near Stonington, 
Ct). For all sea 
side attractions, 
this place is not 
surpassed on the 
whole Atlantic 
Coast. Charges 
Very Moderate— 
Circulars. 

A. S. Plimpton. 




























HOTELS. 


207 



DANIEL, HORN, Proprietor. 

W0LFEB0R0UGH, N. H. 

This house and grounds are beautifully located in the most 
attractive spot on the shore of Lake Winnipiseoge©, at 
Wolfeborough, only a few rods distant from the Steamboat 
Landing and Railroad Station. 

Connected with the House are Boarding and Livery Stable, 
Laundry, and Bathing, and a large supply of Boats for rowing, 
sailing, and fishing, at moderate charges. Also, two beauti¬ 
ful, fast sailing Yachts, carrying 25 to 30 persons each. 

Lake and Brook Trout abundant. 

Board at Reduced Rates in May and June. 


—v Ar—j 


BUCK’S HOTEL, 

LE8N0IVILLE, P. 0- 

F. P. BUCK, ... . Proprietor. 

Junction of Grand Trunk & P. & C. R. R. 

This Hotel has been refitted and refurnished in first-class style. 







V 







Delightfully located, and extensively patronized by Summer Tourists. 


0 


A 





►H 

0 

x 

Q 

£ 

r-l 


PITCH’S HOTEL, 

NORTHAMPTON. ----- MA.SS. 



First Class. Centrally and pleasantly located. A first class Livery connected 
with the House. 






























































HOTELS 


209 



NORTH CONWAY, N. H. 



THOMPSON, SON & ANDREWS, Proprietors. 

THIS NEW AND ELEGANT HOTEL was built with a particular regard to 
the wants of pleasure travel, and h iving over two hundred rooms it has ample 
accommodations for three hundred guests. 

The Dining Hall and Parlor are both large, well lighted and cheerful rooms, 
being fitted up and furnished in the most complete and thorough manner. Dur¬ 
ing tlie past Winter these, with all the public rooms, have been richly frescoed, 
and the house is now complete in all its appointments and arrangements, making 
in all respects one of the most comfortable, spacious and richly furnished of Sum¬ 
mer Hotels. 

The Sleeping Rooms are large, high and airy, and arranged singly, or in suites 
for families ; they are furnished entirely new, with especial reference to the com¬ 
fort and convenience of guests. 

Chandler’s Band of Portland, is engaged for the season. 

Railroad facilities are the very best. Two Pullman Express trains run each 
way between Boston and North Conway over the line of the Eastern, Portsmouth, 
Great Falls and Conway Railroad. 

Passengers from New York and the West via Boston, can connect with the 
above routes. Via Concord, over the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad, 
leave the cars at Weirs and take the Boat across the Lake for Centre Harbor; and 
from there stages run to West Ossipee, connecting with ti’ains for North Conway. 

S. W. THOMPSON. S. D. THOMPSON, I. N. ANDREWS. 






















































210 


HOTELS. 


SINCLAIR HOUSE, 

BETHLEHEM, N. H., 


J. A. DM, Proprietor, 


This is now one of the most favorite resoj'ts for 
Tourists and Summer Boarders within 
easy distance of all the 


WHITE MOUNTAIN ATTRACTIONS, 


und from which point the whole range shows superbly. 

This House is now run by Mr. Durgin, who has perma¬ 
nently succeeded Durgin and Ranlet. 


J. A. DURGIN. 



HOTELS. 


211 


THE 


QUEEN’S HOTEL, 

Front Street, 

y oronto, Ontario. 


THOMAS DICK, Proprietor. 
THOMAS MeGAW, Manager. 


This House, under the present management, is in 
every department First Class,and has dur¬ 
ing the past year, undergone many 
improvements, in Additions, 

Frescoing, new Parlor, 
and Elegant Fur¬ 
niture. 

Much of the Furniture and Tapestry was 

IMPORTED EXPRESSLY FOR THE QUEEN’S. 




212 


HOTELS. 


NATIONAL HOTEL, 

WILLEY & HEAD, Proprietors, 
COR. OF ELM & GRANITE STS., 
MANCHESTER. - - As. II. 

John H. Willey, Frank S. Head. 

PARKER HOUSE, 

Purchase St., Cor. Middle & Elm, 
NEW IBIEIDIF’OIE^ID, !LCA_SS. 
BULLOCK & BROWNELL, Proprietors. 

P. BULLOCK. H. M. BROWNELL. 

WHITE RIVER HOTEL, 

HARTFORD - - - - VERMONT. 

C. W. PEASE, Proprietor. 


Livery Stable and Billiard Hall connected with the House. Guests and Baggage 
conveyed to and from the Depot Free of Charge. 



WOLFEBORO, JUNCTION, - - - N. H. 

J. W. PEESCOTT, Proprietor. 


LIVERY STABLE CONNECTED WITH THE HOUSE. 







HOTELS. 


213 


SPRING HOTEL. 


NEWBURY, VT„ 

R. W. CHAMBERLAIN, Proprietor. 



This new and elegant Hotel located in the midst of the 


MOST CHARMING OF RIVER, MOUNTAIN, 

VALLEY, AND LAKE SCENERY, 

and furnishing excellent drives, offers unrivalled induce¬ 
ments for 

TOURISTS AND SUMMER BOARDERS. 

In the immediate vicinity of the House are the 

CELEBRATED SPRINGS OF NEWBURY. 

For description, send for Circular. A first class Livery 
connected with this House. Carriages at Depot on arrival 
of trains. 

R. W. CHAMBERLAIN, Newbury, Vt. 

June, 1874. 


















214 


HOTELS. 


Wacljusett House, 



PRINCETON", MASS. 


This House, pleasantly located at Princeton Centre, offers 
extra accommodations to 

PERMANENT AND TRANSIENT GUESTS. 


Stages leave this House, connecting with every Train on the 


BOSTON, BARRE AND GARDNER R. R. 


P. A. BEAMAN & SON, Proprietors. 







HOTELS, 


215 


TOWNS’ HOTEL, 

By Charles Towns, ) 


BELLOW'S FALLS, VERMONT. 



This One new Hotel, pleasantly and desirably located in the beautiful vil¬ 
lage of 

BELLOW’S FALLS, VERMONT, 

is surr m ile l by the most Romantic Sconery, Rivers, Brooks, and Drives to be 
foun l in any place of pleasure resort in New England. 

Situated on the line of travel between New York and the White Mountains, 
Saratoga, and Lake George, making one of the most desirable and favorite 
points to stop on the route. 

The furnishing is elegant and elaborate, and the table not excelled in New 
England. 

Coaches at the Dopot on arrival of Trains. 

ISf A first-class Livery connected with the Hotel. 








































































216 


HOTELS. 



By GEO. A. LYNCH, 


ROCKLAND, 


MAINE. 



This First Class and Finely Appointed Hotel is 
pleasantly and desirably located in the beautiful village of 
Rockland, Me., and affords for the traveling public, Scenery, 
Comfort, Drives, and Facilities for Tourists not excelled in 
New England. 

A fine Livery connected with the House. Coaches at the 
Steamboat Landing and R. R. Station. 













HOTELS. 


217 



By O. M. SHAW, 



Not excelled by any Hotel in the State, for elegance and 
completeness in every department, offering to the travelling 
public attractions facilites and comforts not inferior to the 
best and most noted Hotels. The location is fine and cen¬ 
tral, located as it is on one of the widest, pleasantest and 
most traveled avenues in the city. Its rooms, both single 
and in suits are large and airy. The furnishing and appoint¬ 
ments of the best, and the tables of already well established 
excellence, while every convenience of a modern, first-class 
Hotel pertains to the House. 

A fine Billiard Hall and first-class Livery connected with 
the House. Coaches at all the Steam-boat Landings and R. 
R. Stations. 





218 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


NEW AIR LINE FROM BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


A bird’s eye view of the route. 


The completion of the South-Eastern Railway, from New¬ 
port, Vt., to Montreal, forms the finishing link in an air line 
railway route from Boston to Montreal, and places before 
both business men and pleasure travelers unprecedented and 
unrivalled advantages for travel between the commercial 
centres of New England and the New Dominion. To the 
advantages of the shortest distance and the quickest time, 
without which no line can successfully compete for travel in 
this age, is added the special charm of passing through the 
most beautiful and picturesque portions of New England, or, 
indeed, of the American continent. 

Leaving Boston, upon the Boston, Lowell and Nashua rail¬ 
road, from the largest and finest passenger station in New 
England, the traveler enjoys a ride through the charming 
suburban cities and towns of Cambridge, Somerville, Med¬ 
ford and Winchester, passes through Lowell, the far-famed 
“city of spindles, n up the busy and cultivated valley of the 
Merrimack, and over the Concord railroad through Nashua, 
Manchester and Suncook, the leading manufacturing places 
in New Hampshire, to Concord. Here the Boston, Concord 
and Montreal railroad is taken, and after passing along the 
shores of the beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee through the 
Pemigewasset valley, and almost under the towering cliffs of 
the White Mountains, the valley of the Upper Connecticut is 
reached at Wells River, Vt. From Wells River to Newport, 
Vt., over the Passumpsic railroad and through the Connecti¬ 
cut and Passumpsic valleys, there is a rapid succession of 
beautiful river, mountain and lake views, which are nowhere 
excelled upon this continent, and which are scarcely second 
to the finest natural scenery of the Old World. 

The beautiful farming and manufacturing villages nestling 
aniongjthe mountains and on the fertile banks of the swift run¬ 
ning streams, with the background of rugged mountain 
scenery, form a picture which none but the Omnipotent 
Artist could paint, and each successive mile is only a new 




ADVERTISEMENT. 


219 


revelation of the magnificent grandeur of Northern New 
England scenery. 

At Newport there is the charming Lake Memphremagog, 
the queen of Vermont lakes, and lovers of the picturesque 
in Nature will find a longer or a shorter tarry at the hospi¬ 
table Memphremagog House, with sails upon the lake, and 
walks and drives about it, a most delightful and invigorating 
experience. 

From Newport to Montreal the route lies over the recently 
completed and opened South-eastern railway, which skirts 
along the shores of Lake Memphremagog, in sight of Jay 
Peak and other lofty mountains, and through the most at¬ 
tractive inland portions of Lower Canada, until the world- 
renowned Victoria bridge is entered and crossed, and the 
beautiful city of Montreal, the commercial metropolis of the 
Dominion, is reached. 

This brief reference to some of the more notable features 
of the natural scenery along the route gives but a faint idea 
of the wealth of picturesque beauty which Nature has lav¬ 
ished upon the country traversed by this line of roads, and 
no one has seen New England scenery at its best until he has 
passed through these valleys and along-these lake shores and 
mountain sides,which have been hastily sketched above. The 
advantages of cheap excursion rates for such a line of travel 
as this, will easily commend themselves alike to those who 
travel for business or pleasure, and when it is added that 
arrangements have been made for cheap excursion rates to 
the White Mountains, over the White Mountains railroad to 
the Fabyan House, and up the famous Mount Washington 
railway, to Niagara Falls, Quebec, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
the Saguenay, the Thousand Isles, Lakes George and Cham¬ 
plain, and the Hudson River, the advantages of this line over 
any and all others will be easily apparent. 

Two through trains will run daily during the season, be¬ 
tween Boston and Montreal, one leaving in the morning, and 
the other in the early evening,and all the trains,will be equip¬ 
ped with Miller platforms and Westing house brakes,and will 
be furnished with Pullman cars, parlor or sleeping. The day 
trains will stop for dinner at the elegant and well kept Pemi- 
gewasset House, at Plymouth, N. H., and for supper at the 
equally favorably known Memphremagog House, at Newport, 
Vt.,and the managers of the line feel warranted in saying that 
no other line of travel in the country combines so many and 
so desirable features, as this one which they have now opened 
between the chief cities of New England and the Dominion 
of Canada. The Boston office is at 94 Washington street, 
and will be in charge of a gentleman, who, for the last six 
years, has sold tickets to American travelers. 


220 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


Commencing Monday, June 1 st. 

THE GREAT NORTERN EODTE for TOURISTS 
AH PLEASURE SEEKERS. 


THE NEW 

Montreal & Boston Air Line, 

Composed of the 

lioston, Concord k Montreal E. R., Concord to Wells River, Passumpsic 
R. R., Wells River to Newport, Vt., South Eastern Rail¬ 
way, Newport to St. Johns, P. Q. 

Will, on and after June let, run 

FAST EXPRESS TRADES 

Composed of new and elegant Cara provided with all modern 
improvements, from 

BOSTON (Lovell Depot) to IOBTRMI 

Where connection is made with GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY for the West. 


Entire Trains, with Pullman Cars attached, run from 
BOSTON to MCNTEEAL without Change ! 

AND 

ONLY ONE CHANGE TO CHICAGO! 


No Route from Boston presents such Magnificent Scenery, and Passengers 
by this line travel through the 

PARADISE OF THIS CONTINENT! 









ADVERTISEMENT. 


221 


A continuous and most charming Panorama of River, Mountain, Valley 
and Lake Scenery will entertain the traveler for a distance of 250 miles, 
including the grand views of 

Lake Winnipesauke the White Mountain Range, Passurapsic River Valley, 
Crystal Lake, and the Romantic Lake Mcmphremagog. 

Trains stop 30 minutes for meals at the Pemtgewassett House, Plymouth 
N. H., and the Memphremagog House, Newport, Vt. (See descriptive matter, 
on the two previous pages.) 

SPECIAL NOTICE. 

TO TOURISTS and PLEASURE TRAVELERS. 

AT OUR GENERAL OFFICE, 

84 WASHIIffQTOZT ST., 

And at all principal Ticket Offices in other New England 
cities, there will be on Sale during the Pleasure Season a 
variety of 

Tourists and Excursion Tickets, 

Made up in entirely new combinations, including all Resorts 
and Points of Interest throughout the Country. 

RATES AS LOW AS THE LOWEST. 

The Ticket Seller, at our office, has had a six years experi¬ 
ence in Canada,with American Pleasure Travel, and will be 
found to be able to give 

THE MOST RELIABLE INFORMATION. 

Call at our offices for Birds-Eye View Circular of the Line 

and Time-Table. 

GENERAL OFFICES: 

Boston, 94 Washington Street; Montreal, 202 Gt. St. James Snet; 

N. P. Lovering, Jr. Gen’I.Ticket Agt: Levs & Cure,T icket Agts., Boston, 
Gustave Leve, Passenger Agt. 

GORHAM, MT., WASHINGTON & GLEN HOUSE. 

Stages connect at Gorham, N. II., with all trains on the Grand Trunk Railway lor 
the Glen House. 

Stages leave the Glen House to connect with all trains on the Grand Trunk, 
Stages leave the Glen for the Summit at 8 a. in., and 3 p. m., daily; leave Sum¬ 
mit for the Glen House at 6 a. m., and 2 p. in. 

Stages leave for North Conway and Glen Station at 8 a. m., and 3 p. ni. 

Extra Stages furnished parties on application. 

W. & C. R. MILIKEN, Proprietors. 



222 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


Through Fast Express Trains! ! 



TO AND FROM 

New York, Providence and Worcester, 

AND THE 

WHITE MOUNTAINS. 


SURE CONNECTIONS! 

EXCELLENT ROAD BED! 

SPEED, SAFETY & COMFORT! 

Through Express Trains by this line, via PROVIDENCE (6 WORCESTER 
and WORCESTER <£ NASHUA RAILROADS, connecting at Nashua with 
Through Express Trains to and from the WHITE MOUNTAINS. 


THE ELEGANT PARLOR CAR. 


^gUY §f fTOBCIHSTHB” 

Made expressly for this route, with all the elegancies demanded by first- 
class travel. 

Passengers for the Mountains, from New York, should secure tickets via 

Providence & Worcester. 


WM. D. HILTON, Superintendent* 
WM. M. DURFEE, Gen’l Pass. Agt. 








ADVERTISEMENT. 


223 


NORTH 60NWAY, WEST OgglPEB 


-A-TsTID 

Centre Harbor Stage Line, 

ft. A. B. BENSON, Proprietor, 


Six Horse Concord Coaches leave West Ossipee on arrival 
of the first train from North Conway—passing through a 
continuous and most charming panorama of Mountain, Riv¬ 
er, Yalley and Lake Scenery, including the grandest views of 
the White Mountain Range, and the romantic Lake Winni- 
pesaukee. Arrive at Centre Harbor (one hour for dinner at 
the Senter House and Moulton House), connecting with 
Steamer Lady of the Lake, one hour’s sail on the most inter¬ 
esting, and through the most charming scenery of Lake 
Winnipesaukee to Weirs, connecting with Through White 
Mountain Express Trains, (parlor cars) for all points in 
New England, New York and the West. 

Passengers for North Conway and West Ossipee leave 
White Mountain Express Train on B. C. & M. R. R. at 
Weirs, Steamer Lady of the Lake for Centre Harbor, (one 
hour to dine,) arriving at West Ossipee to connect with Day 
Express for North Conway. 

This is the most direct and popular route from New York, 
Boston and intermediate cities to North Conway. 

R. A. R. BENSON, 

PROPRIETOR OF STAGE LINE, 

Centre Harbor, N. H. 

June, 1874. 


224 


TIME TABLE. 


Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains 


TRAINS WORTH-LEAVE 

N. Y., via Fall River,Strs.» 

Pier 28 North River. 

N. Y., via New London 
Strs., Pier 40 N. River.... 

New York, all rail. 

Boston, Lowell Depot. 

Boston, B. & M. Depot. 

New Haven. 

Hartford. 

Springfield. 

Allvn’s Point. 

Worcester.{ ^. 

New Bedford.. 

Providence via Worcester 
“ Mansfield 

Newport, R. I.............. 

Fall River. 

Taunton. 

Salem. 

6 Newburyport. 

Portsmouth. 

c Dover. 

Haverhill... 

Lowell. 

Nashua. 

Lawrence. 

Manchester. 

„ , (Arrive... 

Concord .t Leave,... 

East Concord. 

Canterbury. 

Northfield.... 1 

Tilton. 1 

Lacon’a.. 

Lake Tillage. 

d Weir*, Steamboat. 

Centre Harbor.... j 

West Ossipee. 

North Conway. 

Wolfooro’.. 

Meredith Village. 

Ashland . 

P, y ,nouth .{ Leaved 

Rnnmey. 

West Rumney. 

Warren. 

Haverhill and Newbury. 


Ex. Train. 


5.00 p. M 


5.00 “ 
8.10 “ 
aS.OO A. M 
a7.30 “ 
11.20 p. m 
12.40 A. M. 
a2.00 A. M. 
a5.00 “ 
7.40 “ 
a8.00 *• 
o5.50 “ 
a6.25 “ 
a 6.20 '* 
ao.OO “ 
<i5.00 “ 
a6.32 “ 
«7.00 “ 
aO.15 “ 
a7.55 “ 
o7.55 “ 
u7.lo “ 
a8.48 “ 

o9.30 “ 
a 8.25 “ 
nlO.02 “ 
10.35 
a 10.35 “ 


Mail Train. 


11.35 
11.40 
11.52 
1.00 
2.00 
/■5.00 
7.00 
3.00 


P. M 


12 35 
1.10 “ 


1.50 


Ex. Train. 


12.00 ’ll. 

12 0o M. 


6.00 A. M 
7-5 “ 


11.15 


Montre’l Ex 


11.00 


10.45 A. M. 
10.51 “ 
11.09 “ 
11.18 “ 
11.30 “ 
11.53 “ 
11.58 “ 
12.10 p. M 


511.00 “ 
612.34 P. M 
1.00 “ 

1.35 “ 
1.05 “ 
2.20 “ 
3.05 “ 
3.30 “ 

3.35 “ 
3.51 « 
4.05 “ 
4.17 “ 
4.38 “ 
4.42 « 

4 54 “ 


12.20 

12.41 

12.55 

1.20 

1.41 

1.50 

2.14 

2.58 


0.3) 4 

5.05 “ 
5.25 “ 
e5.40 “ 
e7.35 a. M. 
7.58 “ 

8 07 “ 
8.29 “ 
9.15 “ 


10.U0 a. m. 
6.00 p. M. 
5.00 “ 
12.31 “ 
1.37 “ 
2.35 “ 


4.35 


2.15 

1.20 


11.15 

1.50 

4.50 
2 40 

5.10 
co.18 
63.30 

7 DO 
7 30 
6.05 
8.07 
8.45 
8.45 
8.47 
8.57 

9.11 
9.25 
9.54 

10.04 

10.05 


10.17 

10.40 

11.16 


12.04 A. M. 



































































































Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains Railroad—Concluded. 


TRAINS NORTH—LEAVE 


Woods ville 


{ Arrive. 
Leave.. 


Ex. Train. 


Wells River 

Bath. 

Lisbon. 

North Lisbon. 

Littleton, arrive. 

Profile House, arrive. 

Wing Road, “ . 

Bethlehem, “ . 

Sinclair House, “ . 

Twin Mt. Station, arrive.... 

White Mt. House, “ . 

Fabyan House “ . 

Mt. Wash’on Sum’t “ . 

Crawford House, “ . 

Whitefield, “ . 

Dalton, “ . 

So. Lancaster, “ . 

Lancaster.| Leave 6 .* .*.* | 

Waumbeck House, arrive... 

Northumberland Falls. 

Northumberland, arrive.... 
Gorham, “ .... 

Glen House, “ .... 

St. Johnsbury.“ .... 

Newport... ^ Arrive 


Island Pond 
Richmond .. 


\ Leave 

{ Arrive... 

Leave.... 
1 Arrive... 
*”* | Leave ... 
Montreal via Pasumpsic and 

South Eastern. 

Montreal via Northuui’land 

arrive. 

Quebec, " . 


2.38. 


3.22 “ 
5.00 “ 
3.37 “ 
3.50 “ 
4.25 “ 
407 “ 
4.15 “ 
4.15 “ 
6.30 p. m. 
6.00 “ 
4.00 “ 


4.32 

6.00 

6.00 

6.13 

6.30 


.1. 


3.23 p. M. 
5 03 “ 
5.25 “ 
9.00 “ 
10.00 “ 
2.05 a. M. 

3.30 

9.30 P.M. 


5.00 


9.00 ‘ 
10.00 ‘ 
2.05 A. 
2.30 ‘ 


M. 


6.3 ) A. M.l 
7 40 “ I 


6.30 

7.40 


1.55 

2.15 

5.00 

5.30 


9.20 

8.45 

9.20 


i Mail Tr 

ain. 

1 Ex. Train. 

Ex. Train. 

3.25 

*• 

9.42 


1.00 A. M 

4.00 

it 

10.05 

if 


4.05 

it 

10.00 

it 


4.20 

ft 

10.20 

Cl 


4.35 

tt 

10.51 

it 


4.50 

ft 

11.06 

ft 


5.05 

u 

pll.15 

it 


6.30 

u 

1.00 

P. M. 


5.26 

n 

pll.34 

A. M. 


5.30 

u 

pi 1.57 

it 


6.00 

ti 

12.30 

P. M. 


5.45 

ft 

12.15 

it 


6.00 

u 

12.45 

tt 


6.00 

tc 

1.00 

It 


8.00 

it 

2.00 

i« 


5.43 

<• 

11.50 

A. M. 


5.56 

u 

12.03 

P. M. 


6.02 

if 

12.08 

(t 


6.06 

it 

pl2.21 

it 


8.00 

it 

2.00 

ft 


6.35 

if 

12.36 

if 


6.48 

it 

12.45 

it 




4.15 

it 



1.58 

3*58* 


9.30 


aThirty minutes for dinner at the Pemigewasset House, Plymouth, and arrive 
at Littleton, Lancaster, Profile House (Frauconia Mountains) Fabyan, Sinclair, 
Waumbeck, Crawford, Twin Mountain and White Mountain Houses early the 
same afternoon, and Mount Washington House (sum nit of Mount Washington) 
before suuset. Montreal via St Johnsbury A Newport early the same evening. 
No change of cars. Via Northumberland & Grand Trunk 6.30 next morning. 

dSteamboat for Wolfboro’, Centre Harbor stages to West Ossipee, rail to North 
Conway, one hour at Centre Harbor, for dinner. 

^Passengers by the accommodation train lodge at Plymouth, and proceed at 
7.35 the following morning arriving at Littleton, Lancaster, and Profile, Craw¬ 
ford, Twin Mountain, Fabyan, Sinclair, Waumbeck and White Mountain Houses 
in time to dine; connecting at Northumberland with the 12:45 p. M. train, Grand 
Trunk Railway, for Island Pond, Montreal, and Quebec, Gorham and Glen IIouso 
arriving early same evening. /Supper. 

g Passengers by this train, loaving the Mountain Houses after usual breakfast 
hours, connect at Northumberland Junction with G. T. It. It , for Glen Home, 
Montreal and Quebec, arriving early the same evening. 

Elegant Parlor Cars run through from Allyn’s Point, via Worcester and 
Nashua; from Boston to all stations on Boston, Concord, Montreal and White 
Mountains R. R. 

Conductors B. C. & M., and W dtp. Mountains R. R's. —J. S. Russ, David Fur- 
gorson, G. W. Eastman, L. V. Moulton, T. Robio, O. M. Hinds, E. F. Mann, Geo. 
V. Moulton. Gr.neral OJTi 'C 5 State Street, Boston. 

W. R. BRACKET Gen, TicketAgt., Plymouth, N, H. 

























































































Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains 


TRAINS SOUTH—LeaveliEx. Train 

ML Train. 

Mont’l Ex. 

Ac. Train. 

Night Ex. 

Quebec. 

Mont’l via Northunib’ld 

8 30 P.M. 
10 00 “ 

1 10 P.M. 
1 45 “ 


c7 00 A.M. 
c7 00 “ 




Montreal via fcouineabi- 



8 45 a.m. 


3 45 p.m. 


1 50 A.M. 

2 15 “ 

6 00 

7 45 “ 

5 30 “ 

5 45 “ 


clO 30 “ 


Richmond ... \ Leave 6 * 


CIO 45 “ 



9 00 “ 


cl2 05 P.M. 


Island Pond.. j * 


c2 00 “ 


* f Arrive. 

^Newport ....| Leave . 


1 00 P. M. 

510 25 A.M. 

9 00 “ 



1 27 “ 

511 25 “ 

9 25 “ 



3 08 “ 


11 34 “ 



. 


51 15 “ 




.1. 

51 35 “ 


Northumberland, June, 
t- “ Falls. 

9 00 “ 




9 09 “ 

. 

. 

52 00 p.m. 


8 00 “ 

6 00 A.M. 




9 25 “ 

7 45 “ 

1 15 P.M. 





7 59 “ 

1 30 “ 





8 05 “ 

1 36 “ 





8 18 “ 

1 49 “ 




7 30 “ 

6 00 “ 

12 00 M. 




7 00 “ 





Fabyan House Station.. 
"White Mountain House. 

8 45 “ 

7 15 “ 

1 15 P.M. 



9 00 “ 

7 30 “ 

1 15 “ 



9 30- “ 

8 00 “ 

1 30 “ 




9 30 “ 

8 00 “ 

1 30 “ 




9 47 “ 

8 18 “ 

1 50 “ 




10 10 “ 

8 35 “ 

2 10 •“ 




8 30 “ 

7 00 “ 

1 00 “ 




10 30 “ 

9 00 “ 

2 25 “ 





9 13 “ 

2 39 “ 





9 26 “ 

2 53 “ 



■RntVi. 


9 41 “ 

3 07 “ 





9 55 “ 

3 25 “ 


12 33 A.M. 

Woodville.... 4 , _ nv _ 

10 17 “ 

3 53 “ 


*4 t 



10 12 “ 






10 44 “ 




JP,apt Wp.vfirhill. 


10 59 “ 





12 03 p.m. 

11 27 “ 



1 44 “ 


11 38 “ 

4 45 “ 



West Riinmfty, .. 


11 50 “ 





12 (0 M. 










t.i .1 f Arrive. 

P1 y moutb .1 Leave.. 

512.45 

512 22 p.m. 

5 28 “ 


2 50 “ 

1 15 “ 

1 03 “ 

5 48 

7 30 a.m. 

■prip'pwritf 1 !'. T ...... 






Ashland... 


1 17 “ 


7 45 “ 


Meredith Village. 


1 37 “ 

6 24 “ 

8 10 “ 

3 29 “ 

Wolfboro*. 

10 15 A.M. 

7 20 “ 

8 00 “ 

1 00 P M 

1015 A.M. 

3 00 “ 


No. Conway,. 

7 20 “ 




West Ossipee... 

8 00 “ 




Centre Harbor. 



7 *-*n ‘‘ 


Weirs, (steamboat). 

Lake Village. 

2 00 “ 

2 14 “ 

2 19 “ 

1 48 p.m. 

2 <0 “ 

6 33 “ 

6 44 •* 

8 25 “ 

8 39 “ 

8 44 “ 

8 57 

Q (\H ‘ * 


Laconia. 

2 05 “ 

6 49 “ 

4 00 “ 

East Tilton. 

2 19 “ 

4 05 “ 

Tilton. 

2 40 “ 

2 28 “ 



Nor th field. 

2 40 “ 

i JU 

9 25 “ 

9 35 “ 

9 58 “ 

10 05 “ 

10 16 “ 


Canterbury .. 


2 48 “ 



East Concord.. 


3 20 “ 


5 20 “ 

5 30 “ 

( Arrive. 
Concord.Leave.. 

3 20 “ 
e3 25 “ 

3 27 “ 

7 50 “ 

7 50 “ 

__ . i^Leave.. 

3 40 “ 

3 40 “ 











































































































































Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Moutains Railroad—concluded. 


TRAINS SOUTH—Leave 

/Ex. Train,Mt. Train. 

Ac. Train 

Ex. Train 

Night Ex 

Manchester.leave 

3 58 “ 

4 20 “ 

8 30 “ 

10 58 “ 

6 10 “ 

Lawrence. 

5 30 “ 

5 30 “ 



7 « 

Nashua. 

4 30 “ . 

4 58 “ 

9 05 “ 

11 45 A. M. 

7 00 “ 

Lowell. 

5 30 “ 

5 30 “ 

9 30 “ 

12 15 p. m. 

7 30 

Haverhill. 

6 26 “ 

6 26 “ 


1 38 “ 

8 40 u 

Dover. 

6 17 “ 

6 17 “ 


fa 00 “ 

in in “ 

Portsmouth. 

6 15 “ 

6 15 “ 


10 10 “ 

Newbury port.. 

6 55 “ 

6 55 “ 


2 15 “ 

9 30 “ 

Salem. 

7 00 “ 

7 00 “ 


8 50 “ 

So. Framingham. 

6 15 “ 

6 15 “ 


1 35 “ 

8 58 “ 

Taunton... 

7 40 “ 

7 40 “ 


3 18 “ 

10 28 “ 

Fall River. 

8 20 “ 

8 20 “ 


4 46 “ 

11 07 “ 

Newport, R. I.. 

8 10 “ 

8 10 “ 


5 25 “ 

11 50 “ 

Providence. 

8 20 “ 

8 20 


3 30 “ 

10 80 “ 

New Bedford. 

8 25 “ 

8 25 “ 


4 08 “ 

Worcester .. 

6 00 “ 

7 10 “ 


2 00 “ 

9 20 “ 

Allyn’s Point. 

10 15 “ 

10 15 “ 


Springfield. 

8 15 “ 



6 15 “ 

11 35 “ 

Hartford .. 

1 26 A. M 

1 26 A M 


7 20 “ 

1 50 P M 

New Haven. 

2 40 “ 

2 40 “ 


8 30 “ 

2 50 “ 

Boston B. & M. Depot... 

6 29 p. m. 

6 29 p. m. 


1 15 “ 

8 40 A. M 

Boston, Lowell Depot... 

6 23 “ 

6 23 “ 

10 25 “ 

1 15 “ 

8 30 “ 

New York, all rail. 

5 25 a M. 

6 25 A. M 


11 12 “ 

5 15 P. M 

N. Y. via Norwich Line 




Strs., Pier N. River.... 

5 00 “ 

5 00 ‘ 




N. Y. via Fall River Strs. 






Pier 28 North River.. 

5 00 *• 






c/Also leave Glen House at 5.00 p, m., Gorham 6.05 P. M., via Nirththumberland 
Junction, arriving at Lancaster 8.15 p. M. 

i/Quebec and Montreal Day Express via Northumberland Junction arriving at 
principal White Mountain Houses, in time for tea. 
cTea at Mempbremagog House. 

dNew York Express via Nashua—Passengers for Worcester Springfield, Hart¬ 
ford, New Haven, Norwich, New London, South Framingham, Providence, 
Taunton, New Bedford, Fall River and Newport take this train. 
eVia Lawrence. 

/Yia Concord and Portsmouth Railroad. 

^Thirty minutes for dinner at Pemigewassett House. 

"/(Passengers by this train can leave Lancaster, Littleton, and the Mountain 
Houses after the usual breakfast hour, and arrive in Manchester, Lawrence, Dover., 
Portsmouth, Hampton Beach, Nashua, Worcester, Providence, Taunton, New 
Bedford, Fall River, Salem, and Boston in time for supper. 

t'Passengers for Dover, Portsmouth, and Hampton Beach changes cars at 
Manchester for Concord and Portsmouth Railroad. 

Passengers for Salem change cars at Lowell. 

Passengers for FMtchburg change cars at Ayer’s Junction. 

Elegant Parlor Cars run through from all stations on Boston, Concord, Mon¬ 
treal and White Mountain Railroad, to Boston via Lowell. Allyn’s Point via 
Worcester. 

Express train leaving Montreal via Passumpsic and South Eastern at 3.45 p. 
M. Sleeping cars attached run through via Plymouth to Boston, arriving at 8.30 
a. m. , 

Day Express leaving Montreal via South Eastern and Passumpsic at 8:45 A. M., 
(Parlor Cars) runs through to Boston via Plymouth. Connects at Wells River with 
Express train for Littleton and Lancaster, arriving at all the Mountain Houses 
before sunset. 

OEEIOEES : 

J. E. LYON, President, BOSTON. 

J. A. DODGE, Supt. C. M. WHITTIER, Cashier, PLYMOUTH, N. H, 

W. R. BRACKETT, G. T. A. ; J, L. ROGERS, G. F. T. 





























































228 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


MT. -WASHING-TON RAILWAY. 


SUMMER ARRANGEMENT, - - 1874- 


UPWARD. 

Leave Ammonusuc Station - 10.30 A. M., 5.30 P. M. 

DOWNWARD. 

Leave Tip-Top Station - 7 A.M., 2 P.M. 


EXTRA TRAINS will be run for a reasonable number of passengers upon suit¬ 
able notice by Mail or Telegraph. 

COACHES to and from the Railroads and Hotels connect with all regular 
trains, both at the base and Summit. 

JOHN W. DODGE, Manager. 



THE NEW STEAMER, 

'lady of 

Connecting at Weirs with the 

BOSTON, CONCORD & NjONTRE^L RAILROAD, 

Leaves Weirs for 

CENTRE HARBOR, CONWAY, NORTH CONWAY, 
WHITE AND FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS, 

At 11.50 A. M., and 4.40 P. M., or on arrival of the trains from Boston. Passen¬ 
gers leaving Boston by the 7.30 A. M. train, via Boston & Maine, or 8.00 A. M. 
Express, via Boston and Lowell, arrive at Centre Harbor (sailing over the most 
interesting portion of the Lake) one hour earlier than by any other route, and at 
Conway same evening; or by the 1*2.00 M. train, arrive at Centre Harbor and 
Wolfboro.’ Passengers from New York, by the 5.00 P. M. train, via this route, 
arrive at Conway next evening. 

BAGGAGH CHECKED THROUGH. 


% 

RETURNING-. 

Leaves Wolfboro’ daily, at 5.30 A. M., 10.15 A. M. and 3 P. M., touching at Dia¬ 
mond Island four times a day, to connect at Weirs with trains going No. & South. 
Leaves Centre Harbor at 7.30 A. M. and 1.00 P. M. for Boston and New York. 

Passengers leaving Conway, North Conway, Centre Harbor, or Wolfboro’ in the 
morning, arrive in Boston or Now York 1% hours earlier than by any other route. 

S. B. COLE, Captain. 










ADVERTISEMENT. 


229 


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230 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


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ADVERTISEMENTS. 


231 


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233 


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234 


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235 



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237 


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The peculiar features that have distinguished it thus far will characterize it dur¬ 
ing the current year ; and 

New and Varied Attractions 

Will be continually added. Subscriptions may begin with any number; and 
back numbers, either separately or in beautiful bound volumes, can be always 
upplied. 

Terms. —$1.50 a year in advance. 15 Cents a single number. 

>8®=“ A Specimen Copy will be sent for Ten cents. 

JOHN L. SHOBEY, 

36 Bromfield Street, Boston, Mass. 


WORCESTER'S QUARTO DICTIONARY. 



THE STANDARD. 

Worcester’s Royal Quarto Dictionary, 

The Largest! The Cheapest I The Best j 

(Illustrated,) is a massive volume of 
1854 pages, and contains considerably 
more than one hundred thousand 
words in its vocabulary, with their 
pronunciation, definition and etymol 
ogy. New editions of Worcester’s 
Comprehensive Diction- 
ary, Price $ ?.GO, and Pri¬ 
mary Dictionary, (illustrat¬ 
ed,) Price, 62 cents, have been 
recently issued. “Worcester’s Pocket 
Dictionary,” just published. For sale 
by booksellers generally. 

BREWER & TILESTON, Boston. 










238 


ADVERTISEMENT, 


AMERICAN SCENERY. 

Fine Engravings for Home Decoration. 


"WE are Agents for the following exquisitely engraved Steel Plates, which have 
been painted and engraved by the finest American artists, at a cost of over i?15.- 
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Printed on Fine Paper, 18 X 23, India Proofs only, $2 per copy. 

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SUBJECT. 


DRAWN OR PAINTED BT ENGRAVED BT 


Chocorua Peak, White Mountains, 
Trenton Falls, New York, - 
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Wharf and Shipping, New York City, 
Near Leeds, Green County, N. Y., - 
Junction of the St. Mary’s and St. 
Joseph’s Rivers, near Ft. Wayne, Ind. 
Indian Rock, Narragansett Bay, - 
Croton Point, Hudson River, - 
Wabash River, near Vincennes, Ind. 
On the Housatonic, near) 

Stockbridge, Mass. J 
Lake George, New York, 

On the Prairie, - 
Hayne’s Falls, Catskill Mountains, 
Lake Champlain, from St. Albans, Vt. 
Niagara Falls, ... 

On the Susquehanna, near) 

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Upper Mississippi, near 1 
Lansing, Iowa, j 
On the Pemigewassett, ) 

New Hampshire, J 
Evansville, on the Ohio. 

The Meadows, Orange County, N.Y. 
Yosemite Valley, California, 


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Address, E. B. PELTGN, Publisher, 

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ADVERTISEMENT 


239 


Seiner’s Monthly for 1874. 

The unexampled favor accorded to the conductors of this Magazine enables 
them to enter upon the year with the means of making it more attractive and 
valuable than ever before to its large and increasing number of readers. 

THE SERIAL STORY OF THE YEAR, 

KATHERINE EAELE,” 




By Adeline Trafton, Author of “An American Girl Abroad,” 

Commenced in the November number, is complete, in the hands of the publishers. 
It is a charming love story by a gifted writer, and we predict for it a 
wide popularity. There will be 

BRILLIANT NOVELETTES AND SHORTER STORIES BY BRET 
HARTE, SAXE HOLM, REBECCA HARDING DAVIS, 
KATE PUTNAM OSGOOD, 

And other able writers. The best short stories written will be secured in the 
future, as thoy have been in the past, for Scribner’s Monthly. 

The Splendid Series of Illustrated Papers, 

“THE GREAT SOUTH.” 

By Edward King (with illustrations from Sketches by Champney), com 
menced in November, will be continued through the year. The immense amount 
of labor bestowed upon this series of articles has alone delayed its appearance. 
It is intended that it shall be the best, as it has been the most expensive, ever 
given to the American public through the pages of a magazine. The next Papers 
in order will be two on “The Lone Star State,” and tlnee on “The 
Mountain Regions of the South,” to be followed by others not yet 
written, on Missouri, Kentucky,Tennessee, and other Southern States. A series of 

STRIKING AND UNIQUE POEMS ; “OLDTlME|MUSlC,” 
Bv Beniamin F Taylor, long known for his brilliant contributions to the West¬ 
ern Pressure in preparation. They will sing to us again the music of “The 
Spinning Wheel,” “The StageCoach,” “The Flail,” Ac., and will he beautifully 
illustrated Portraits and Biographical Sketches of American Authors will be 
continued by various skillful hands. We have in preparation a series of illus¬ 
trated articles on Dairy Farming and Stock Raising in Europe, which will he of 
the greatest practical interest and value to our farmers. Papers on Furniture and 
Household Decoration are in course of preparation. Besides these serials we have 
more than fifty single illustrated articles, prepared and waiting for the chance to 
he nublished—articles which it would absorb too much space to mention. Of the 
Essays the Poems the Sketches of Travel, the Editorial Discussions of Moral and 
Social ’nuestions, of Science, Literature, Art, and Domestic Ecouomy, which, after 
all will make up the staple ot every number, we can only say that they shall be 
as £rood as they have been, and better if they can be made so. We intend to pub¬ 
lish a Christian Magazine in which there shall be free thought and free express¬ 
ion and to make literature and art tributary, not only to the cultivation of the 
intellect, hut to the purification of the heart and the advancement of Christ 

1UU t Jerms 1 $4 a year, no Club Rates nor other Discounts to Subscribers, 

The July number, containing the introductory article of The Great South series 
ntitled “The New Route to the Gulf,” sent free, by us or any newsdealer, to 
11 new subscribers who request it at the time of making their subscription. 

Scribner’s Monthly and St. Nicholas, $7.00. 

SCimiNFR & to., 054 Broatavay, N. Y. 



240 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


HARPER’S MAGAZINE, WEEKLY, and BAZAR. 


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or HARPER’S BAZAR will be sent for one year 
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18 7 4 


Great International Route. 


GRAND TRUNK. 


1377 Miles under One Management. 


THE GREAT DIRECT CANADIAN 



Between the Eastern and Western States. 


GREAT FREIGHT ROUTE 

Between Europe and North America. 


4SP* Several Lines of Powerful Screw Steamers, during the summer, make 
regular trips between Liverpool and Montreal, and between Glasgow and Mon¬ 
treal, there connecting with the GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, thus forming the 

Most Direct Route to and from England and the Western States of the 

Union. 

Only Two Transhipments between Liverpool and Chicago or Cincinnati. 
JSQp' Goods sent through in Bond. 

45?=* The cheapest and best route to all points East and West. 

4®=* Close Connections made with all Connecting Lines, and Through Tickets 
issued to all important points. 

4SP* Acceleration of speed on the Express Trains. 

4cg=- New Cars on all the Express Trains. 

4®=* Pullman’s Palace and Sleeping Cars are now run on Grand Trunk Line. 
4®=* For San Francisco, Sacramento, Salt Lake City, Omaha, and intermediate 
places on the Pacific Railway, the Grand Trunk is the most direct. 

Splendid Palace Cars are now run between Chicago and Sarnia without change. 
4$g=“ From passengers holding through tickets, American money is received at 
par, for Sleeping Berths and Refreshments. 

Be Sure and ask for Tickets via tie Grand Trunk Railway. 

C. J. BRYDGES) Managing' Director. 

WM. WAIN WRIGHT, 

Gen. Passenger Agent, Montreal. 










FABYAN HOUSE, White Mountains, N. H., Lindsey, French & Co., Proprietors. 































































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